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In the '80s I worked on satellite tracking electronics. The old conventional power supplies had about 0.5mv of ripple and the then-new "switching" supplies had about 50. Since a battery in-circuit with with a charger acts like a stiff filter capacitor (thus protecting the car electronics) and the battery isn't as sensitive to ripple as a vehicle computer, I can see why the typical brute-force or even modern chargers do an adequate job for charging. The requirement for 100 amps of "clean" power to flash a car's computer is shocking (bad pun) but the more computerized cars become, the more important clean power during critical operations becomes.
I just pressed out my 2001 pt cruiser wheel bearing. with hub out i found 2 bearing retainer flanges on the one (driver) side. Do you think that happened at the factory in Mexico? Should I toss one?
Great video. When I take off the tie rod because of a new dust boot, I draw a straight line from the inner tie rod, jam nut and to the outer tie rod. I count the turns of the tie rod and also of the jam nut. In the mean time I keep an eye on the line I drew on the inner tie rod and keep the inner tie rod at the same position. At reinstalling the jam nut and the outer tie rod (after installing the new dust boot) I count the turns I wrote down and still keeps the inner tie rod in the same position. Alignment was the same before and after.
We had something similar at our shop! Vibration above 40 and a clunk on the front end. The customer said he just had CV axles replaced at another shop. It turned out to be the spring clip on the shaft that the other shop did not make sure was still there when installing the new CV axle.
On the gloves topic : even though the currant is low and the voltage is high it only takes 30 milliamps to be fatal, that’s 0.030 amps. That would be my response to why you wear the HV PPE
Battling vibration issues and a "clunk" sound/feeling when going over bumps at low speeds with my 2023 Ram 1500, only 5400 miles on it. Dealer of course says they don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary when they inspected it.
You don't want to grease the 'sliding surface' on the bracket as it will collect dirt...the grease will dry up over time and then get stuck at the end area with no place to go. Check yourself after a few years on your own car, you'll see the dried up grease build up at the end of the sliding surface area and understand then it's better not to grease that part. Just letting it rust will be better as that rust will not build up and fall off, blow away instead of the grease. Sounds strange I know but there's YT videos I cannot find right now demonstrating this. Don't panic please....your brakes won't fail 🙂 because of the grease....they'll slide more/better though over time without grease at the bracket sliding surface.
Thank you for providing much needed information. I was not sure how to relieve tension in the torsion bars on my 2002 Chevy Blazer safely. This seems to be the right way to do it. I've seen it done by lowering a jack but I was concerned I wouldn't be able to get the same tension back on top of the obvious safety problems. This makes the first idea seem so dumb; it's literally just a bolt.
I replaced my caliper and hose when I first start using the brakes they are nice and easy to push when the brake starts to drag it’s only one wheel and the petal gets hard to push
Nice work , Bro i have some question regarding Hybrid ECU , tech. change new HYbrid ECU and after that the vehicle not working/start. There is a code : P0A0A92 ,. What the posible cause ?
I have a 2019 chevrolet equinox ls, we changed the shift solenoid and it drove perfectly but now we are trying to do the transmission fast learn adapt but Drive is not showing. Any help please?
