You want to know how to repair motorbikes yourself? Great, this is the right channel for you!
We buy motorbikes and repair them together in my garage. Usually everything is shown in detail and well explained so YOU learn something in every episode.
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Hello, I received this saw, but after starting it cannot be turned off. Also, the chain sometimes stops under load. Can you advise me about turning off the engine. Thank you
Mach das beruflich 😂das sieht richtig professionell aus. Ich würde sofort buchen. Falls du ein Rotax 122 Motor über hast oder du dir das anders überlegst. Sag bitte bescheid 🎉🎉
This is great. Very helpful. However there is an oring that goes on the water pump shaft and I cannot finger out where it goes. The forms talk about it but and it comes in rebuild kits but I cannot figure out where it goes. They say it goes “right behind the impeller” but that pin goes behind the impeller. Do you know where the o ring for the water pump shaft goes?
This is great. Very helpful. However there is an oring that goes on the water pump shaft and I cannot finger out where it goes. The forms talk about it but and it comes in rebuild kits but I cannot figure out where it goes. They say it goes “right behind the impeller” but that pin goes behind the impeller. Do you know where the o ring for the water pump shaft goes?
@@bikedogtor1663 Excuse me, I was thinking about the automatic translator. nice video👏🏻 I have a husqvarna wr360 98" Where did you find the water pump impeller? I would like one too.. Thank you
Hello! Can you help me? the Daleim VS 125 camshaft needs to be adjusted, where should the camshaft sprocket be adjusted? Should the 2 lines be horizontal or the 2 screws? Thanks!
@@bikedogtor1663 sorry, JIS - Japanese Industrial Standard screws - they look like Phillips screws but aren't. What I meant was, did you adjust the carb 1&2 balance screws and/or the carb 3&4 balance screws?
Very nice video! I have just one question. I am about to buy engine from Aprilia RX125(rotax123). Dont u know if it fits? Is it the same engine with gearbox?
WOW!!! what a beautiful helpful to understand how hard is to care and the skill you need about your bike...thank you !! in your opinion a job like your on a customer who wants to refresh hos bike how much could you charge? thank you and compliments for your highly professional skill and the result you got! ciao from Italy
Hey, thanks for your really nice comment. It depends how many hours you spend. On this project it was roughly 40 hours with a lot of research for parts and so on. I don't know what bike mechanics usually charge per hour.
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Super Video! Habe am Leo der länger stand alles neu bzw. gereinigt. Roller läuft. Geht aber beim Bremsen aus. Vermutung ist Schwimmernadel verklemmen oder Elektrisches da Benzinanzeige bei anschalten auf voll geht.
You're doing a good job. I don't know if it's the first time you place your hands on this bike, but yu seem to have good experience and critical thinking
Just one question, that looks like the original exhaust but 'open' (without catalytic converter). Has it been opened and welded back, does it have a DMG or is it an aftermarket identical to the original (I think Mivv used to make one like the original for full power). Last question, does the Tuono have a phbh 28 like the RS or a 26 like the Aprilia Classic. What's your final gear ratio, 17/40? I believe the gearbox is the same as the RS; not the one mounted on the supermoto or classic. Anyway, if you have questions please ask, as I've rebuilt this engine and also tuned some for the racetrack and I find very few people to talk about it nowadays, particularly in ENglish.
400 is a very good price for a Tuono even it wasn't in the best of conditions. For the same conditions I don't think you can go lower than 1000, 1200 euros for an RS, particularly here in Italy as it is still one of the favourite bikes, also for collectors. Today things are much more expensive. I bought one RS 125 year 2002 with engine just rebuilt for 750 euros about 12 years ago, and I was stupid enough to sell it for 1000, even though I had run over 60.000 km on it, but I always kept it in mind conditions (it had a few minor scratches but that was it). I've just bought a 2007 model for 1800 euros, which might seem like a lot, but it comes with Jolly Moto 107 exhaust, VHSB 34, Gubellini rear shock absorber fully adjustable and some other extra things like aftermarket rear view mirrors, indicators and so on, plus all the original stuff (except the PHBH 28). I might make some videos. I haven't touched it yet, I might start doing something on Sunday. It hasn't been used in 2 years so I'll start with carb cleaning and other basic inspections and see if by replacing the battery fluid the charge is acceptable, otherwise I'll have to buy a new battery, and I'll probably go for those extra light ones, every kilo you gain on this bike is worth it. I find your channel useful even though I've rebuilt this engine at least 4 times already and at least 30 other two stroke engines, it helps me remind me of a few details and you use some interesting home-made techniques. A useful tool for these engine is a torque wrench, particularly for the cilinder.
Another small detail, you might want to check the squish gap. It should be around 1.5 mm stock. Every time you rebuild an engine that might change because of the new gaskets. There's usually three sets of gaskets, 0.3, 0.5 and 0.8 mm. YOu should select the one that gives you the closest squish gap to 1.5 (unless you want a higher compression ratio, but that's at your own risk, it you're not experienced). If your squish gap is 1.8 you'll lose compression ratio, a bit of power and you might have a slightly higher fuel consumption. In any case, a higher squish gap is safer than a lower one, even though these engines in 'racing mode' go as low as 0.7mm. However, for road use and reliability I wouldn't go below 1.2/1.3 as you might incur in the risk of knock.
Thanks for the video. On my Rotax 122 there was a 0.2mm washer between the left crankshaft bearing and the engine block. I'm not sure yours have one. But if you leave it out you can't feel the lateral play because the bearings are new, however after a few miles that play might come back as the bearings and crankshaft start to adapt. You might want to check that out on your next rebuilt, you don't want any lateral play (or max 0.1 mm) of your crankshaft
You just saved my a55. I am replacing crankshaft on my Kawasaki Vulcan and I couldn't find a clutch holder anywhere and I wasn't about to make my own but this totally worked. Thanks so much. Subscribed.
