N62fn bostitch Air blows from trigger when pressed. Replaced trigger still leaks. Also driver not retracting

My nr83a2 just started to slowly push out the piston driver after plugging in air hose. I’d say nail is pushed out very slowly and very minimal, nail is not shot out. But piston driver does seem to be pushing out. Interior air leak?

People that say oil free is good must have a stake in them

Sounds like she's flipping side again. We should call her "flip flop arris"

If a man was to take apart his compressor and there was nothing wrong with it, is there anything he could or should do to extend the life of the components? Mainly the ring on the piston.

I would like to have your email address. I have a pdf would like for you to review and provide feedback on a problem I am having with my oil free air compressor.

Useless video. Tells me exactly nothing about anything.

One thing that I have yet to hear anybody talk about (not just this video but all videos I've watched ) is what can you determine by taking off the wand hose from the unit, turn on the water supply and observe the water flow without even turning the engine on. Should the water be flowing through about as fast as you're supplying it? What can that tell if you do what I mentioned and the water flow coming out of the outlet value is coming out very limited. That's my situation.

I have a 24 year old craftsman oil free air compressor, still going

I have a 6hp v twin cylender from crafts man, do I have to buy 2 cylender kits?

That check valve isn’t a 3/4” npt . It’s a 3/4” inverted flared fitting. 😮 Don’t ask me how I know it is. .

Wasted 3 days trying to figure out why the water was coming out of the relief valve. After watching this video it took me about 15 minutes to figure out that hose was all clogged up.

What size wrench do you use to remove the top??

Hi, where can I buy compression piston ring only for Craftsman model # 921.165720 ( 33 gallon, 165 psi) I'm having a problem finding it online or in stores. Thank you.

I replaced trigger valve and it still blows air there but fires?

Another dumb compressor video that never discusses how head pressure is bled off so there isn't a strain on the electric motor when it restarts

Yep, I own one of these tools, and 2 nr83a2.

Master, two phone number 1:46 1:46

Message to number 0:56

When I am at the Pearly gates, I was only gonna ask to see the one who invented email to beat up, but now I have to add the one who did the subtract 1/4 inch to the list too ;) Thanks much for the simple and quick lesson.

What's the parts you used

Recomiendan algun tipo de lubricante en el anillo para evitar desgaste o solo

I have a electric car polisher that hsn't been used in around 15 years. Hardly used it and now doesn't work. Was left in a draw outside in shed.

What sides it’s that pisotón?

No exhaust valve?

I got one for ya.. two of our framing guns, an NR83AA and an NR83AA5, have an issue where they fire every other nail usually. The driver isn't retracting all the way to allow a nail to enter the chamber. It's almost as if it doesnt have enough air pressure to retract (compressor at 120 and other hitachis working fine). Ive replaced all cylinder o rings and check valve bands, brand new drivers and orings, cleaned out cylinder. If i try to rapid fire a few shots, it sounds as if its running out of air. When they do drive a nail, its driven as it should, but the retract phase sounds different, and i know the next nail wont shoot. I feel like some passageways may be partially clogged.

I’ve been looking for a good video for years man you are the best on here

i have a 40 year old campbell Hausfeld compressor that is rated at 5HP. I rebuit the pump last year but did not replace the connecting rod. Its vey loud now and is pushing oil into the tank. The pump CH recommends is a China 3. HP replacement. VT4923. Is there a better option?

Great video, however I'm looking for tips on how to remove the sheave so I can remove the crankcase cover on the engine.

for smaller pipe fittings, do you you subtract 1/8" from the inside measurement rather than 1/4"?

I have this problem , except, they dropped the compressor and broke the flywheel. How do you go from a tapered end to make it a straight shaft which would fit the new flywheel ?

Great video, just wondering why you always subtract a 1/4 inch on almost all the fittings

I have that same honda 5.0 but for troy bilt....i connect the hose and it shoots out water and even more pressured water when i turn the machine on... But when i squeeze the trigger low pressure water comes out?? Does that mean the house or wand is bad??

Great video and informative, although I’m having a feed problem and the spring is there for the nail pawl

What does the parts look like on the driver on a Bostitch shingle nailer

Helpful thank you.

Would you recommend using liquid ptfe instead of sae20?

I have never delt with electrical like this before. My handheld paint sprayer died. This video is the best. Clear voice and strait forward. Thanks

You shouldn’t use an impact to tighten bolts, especially head bolts. Snug them diagonally, then tighten each one by hand with a ratchet or wrench. -best to do that in a couple of steps.

Makita air compressors use a cast iron compressor block. Emglo uses a cast iron compressor block as well. Eagle uses an aluminum block with a cast iron insert in their compressor blocks. Oiled compressor are by far better made than any oil-less compressor. Oil-free compressors are good if you can get one of the earlier Coleman/Sanborn compressors that have +5 hp and can also run most air tools as well. Even if you have to buy a second hand air compressor, buy either a Makita, Emglo, or an Eagle compressor as these are the best of the best compressors that will last +20 years as long as one changes the compressor oil once every 4 or 5 years. I have the Clarke AC 2002 and this small but barely portable compressor will do almost everything in a pinch and is small and light enough to haul anywhere with minimal grunt work (after all the AC 2002 will do a full 5 CFM at 90 PSI). Nice video and explanation with regards to oil-free air compressors! BTW ~ Small oil-free air compressors are noisy as heck and since these compressor lack lubrication parts inside the compressor will be prone to much more vibration thus causing the parts inside the compressor to fail and break over time. I have had this happen with a 12 volt Slime car tire air compressor I used for filling my tires. Though the Slime 12 volt tire air compressor did last 7 years and I did picked that up used as well from a local Thrift store. Since there is no "power"or "combustion" cycle in an oiled compressor any good synthetic 20W or 30W oil should easily last +10 years in any oil air compressor. Many automotive shops also just use any 20W or 30W automotive engine oil and have had zero problems with any of their oiled compressor whatsoever. Oil-free air compressors are designed to be disposable and will typically last 200 ~ 1000 working hours with the best oil free models lasting upwards of 2000 working hours. Oil-less air compressors use a sealed bearing around the big journal end of the connecting rod thus eliminating the need for oil and neoprene seals to seal in the air in the compression area. Do your own research as one gets what they pay for. This is the primary reason why oil-free compressors are so cheap and widely available at almost any hardware store. Oil-free air compressors are OK for the weekend home DIY-selfers but for any serious or contractor work an oiled compressor is a 100% must have as contractors require their equipment to work at anytime of the day and perform 24/7 if necessary.

No fire to spark do I need an ignition coil or just clean carburetor

The other day I replaced the brushes on my Hitachi (C10FCH2) chop saw since they arct really bad while running. I never noticed it before (not saying it didn't before) but after I replaced the two brushes the machine runs great, no arcing to speak of while running it but man, when the saw is spinning down (I have understood it uses a motor break via the trigger switch) one of the brushes really arcs a lot. As I replaced the brushes I remember one of the brushes was a lot shorter (about 7mm whereas the other was over 10mm) then the other so most likely the heavy arcing had been going on before as well... Can I (or do I need to) remedy this arcing as the motor brake circuit engauges ?

Thanks for posting

Thank you for the explanation. As a machinist, I was throughly confused why my “5/8” pipe cap wouldn’t fit lol.. I’m about 1\4 off lol…

What if you have no high pressure but have only low pressure , what would cause that?

Any suggestions on why Grip Rite GRTCS250 coil siding nailer fires first nail but blade stays forward and next nail isn’t picked up. Gun is essentially new but I’m not the first owner. Any suggestions very welcome

Hey my hitachi shingle nailer is like not decompressing fast enough and I can't shoot twice back to back ..what would cause this

Thank you, you did a very very good job at explaining that. Good job

Great video: I own a brand new DeWalt model DW45RN roofing coil nailer. Currently it's working but it cycles very slow. I shoot a nail, then I have to wait about 5 seconds for it to retract before I can shoot the next nail. Air pressure is set to 100 psi and I use 3in1 oil as the lubricant. There's no water in the system; what could be the problem? Thanks

Dang good video by a pro's pro. I'm an old man who was taught steam pipe-stuff by WWII guys. Not being too educated I have to use memory tricks. NPT I think of as NOMINAL pipe. Putting the words "pipe" and "tube" next to each other reveals that the 2nd letter "i" means pipe is measured by its INSIDE diameter. And the 2nd letter "u" in tubing is bc it's measured by the "OUTside" diameter. Nominal is an important characteristic because even tho 100% of home owners see is Schedule 40 there are thicker schedules of pipe. Example; 1" Schedule 40 has a nominal inside diameter of 1". A 1" Schedule 80 has a nominal inside diameter of much less. (My Pipefitter's Manual isn't handy.). Another example; when holding a length of 1" pipe the threaded end inside diameter will measure less than its non-threaded end inside diameter. Hence, nominal. Dang good video-this guy is a pro's pro.