Beautiful shop! I was sold on your channel when I saw the Festool boxes in the background. And of course, those beautiful red squares. I recently picked up a sawstop saw myself, great piece of machinery. Thanks for the video.
Amazing beautiful wood work. AND that is a great deal of work for a custom picture frame. I don't have the tools or patience for this level of multiple steps.
Not good for carving gouges, the bevel must be convex, and shharoening on a wheel, give a concave bevel, with a concave bevel, carving gouges are useless
The wedge angle on the Tormek SVX-150 is 6 degrees and not 10 degrees as Jeff stated at 1:34. I measured the wedge angle using a digital angle gauge. He's to be forgiven for this mistake since digital angle gauges weren't widely available 12 years ago as they are today. I bought the Tormek 2000 and the ultimate package which included the SVX-150 scissor jig from Jeff/SharpToolsUSA back in 2004.
I'm doing the head of the drill press now. It's not quite as nice as on smooth steel. The high points of the nubs get cut down to metal if the paint is thin...which it tends to be on the high spots. I'll have pics of the results on OWWM in a day or two.
A question about your antique table saw. I have an old (1987?) Craftsman table saw that I bought new. I’ve done a little “refreshing” of it lately but am having trouble getting the rip fence perpendicular to the table top. If I get it perpendicular then the rail is not parallel with the table top. Do you have any suggestions? Is there some internal adjustment I can make? Any suggestions for an after-market fence?
Steve, start by verifying that the blade is parallel to the table. Measure from the miter slot to the blade at the front and rear of the blade. If there's a difference you'll have to adjust the trunnion until it is parallel. I believe on your saw you'll find the trunnion is mounted to the underside of the table in 4 points. The holes in the trunnion brackets are slightly over-sized to allow alignment. Once you have the blade and table top aligned, align the rip fence to the table top. If the rail itself is not perpendicular to the table isn't relevant. As far as an aftermarket fence, I would watch the used market for a vintage (80s - 90s) Biesemeyer.
In general? I like Whiteside. If you're looking for specifics for picture frame molding, I'm afraid that is quite subjective. On this pair I just used a simple, small Roman Ogee.
jebbbrush.com/woodworker-brushes/ The company used to be Opie Brushes in Kansas City. Bought out by a bigger outfit, but kept the woodworkers brushes. Their main line is brushes for flour mills.
Nicely done, Jeff. What was the name of the finish you used again? I didn't quite catch it. Also the polishing system? I've never buffed wood before - that looked like it came out really well.
Loved watching this beautiful woodworking! One respectful suggestion on the mounting of prints from a hobbyist woodworker married to a professional picture framer. That paper is going to move with changes in temperature and humidity. Securing on all four sides prevents that natural movement of the paper and likely will lead to rippling. Even though that “package” is tightly compressed in the frame, that paper is going to figure out a way to move! Best way to mount any print like that is with 2 small “hinges” along the top edge of the print. The print then freely hangs in the space and is able to expand and contract as needed, all undetectable to the human eye. Perfectly natural and expected in picture framing. For those times when “it absolutely has to be perfectly flat and stay that way,” the print can be dry mounted to a substrate. But that’s for another day. Thanks for another fabulous peek into the shop of an expert woodworker!
As much of a pain as that might be, I would do it, Jeff. Twenty-some years ago, I did the same thing (although not with as beautiful wood frames), and I got the ripple. Best to carefully remove now and just attach with 2 pieces about 1” wide at the top of each print, about an inch or two in from the sides. The prints will love you for it! And it should be MUCH easier getting those glazer points back in second time around!
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