BUILD FROM SKETCH. I build a lot of random stuff from sketch.
I am a maker, designer, penny pitcher and all around DIY person always unhappy with the things in life trying to improve them and make life at least a little bit better.
Located in Bonn, Germany.
Here you will see metalworking and woodworking videos as well as welding projects!
Ich hab das selbe Problem bei meinem Q3, ebenfalls der 2l Diesel mit 140 PS. Drosselklappe wurde vor 4 Jahren komplett erneuert und seitdem noch 2x ausgebaut und gereinigt, weil die Warnlampe im Cockpit an ging. Wenn ich mir den ganzen Aufwand mit der Reinigung der Ansaugbrücke angucke, würde mich mal der Neupreis für das Teil interessieren. Ist das bisschen Kunststoff so teuer, dass es den Aufwand lohnt?
Ever since I learned of this technique I wanted to re-scrape the ways on my mill. It's been many years and I've since switched from one clapped out milling machine to another one, but have yet to try it. I think I may be able to get to this soon. Thank you for sharing. This is inspiration.
Ansugbrücke und Zilinderkopfkanäle waren beim gebrauchten 1.6 TDCI-Austauschmotor (ca. 200.000 km) UND beim defekten Originalmotor (ca. 220.000 km) meines Ford Focus MK2 von 2009 noch viel stärker verkokt. Umlaufende Schichtdicken bis 1 cm versperrten stellenweise mehr als die Hälfte des Rohrquerschnittes - nix mehr mit Euro 5! Mein vorheriger Ford Mondeo von 1996 (V6 Benziner) sah aber genauso as. Ich denke nach 200.000 km sieht das bei ALLEN Fzgs mit Abgasrückführung so aus, weil das rußghaltige Abgas VOR dem Kat/DPF abgenommen wird, und nicht DAHINTER, und weil alte Turbolader immer Öl durch die ausgeschliffene Welle verlieren. Die klebrige Ölkohle verstopft dann den gesamten Ansaugtrakt. Also, wenn die AU durchfällt oder der Motor Leistungsverlust hat und das Auspuff rußt und blau raucht, ist eine verstopfter Ansaugtrakt als Fehlerursache gut möglich. Mit Benzin lösen sich die Ablagerungen sehr viel einfacher und schneller. Nach den groben Abkratzten hatte ich anstelle der Drahtbürsten ich einem alten Putzlappen (T-Shirt) mit Benzin getränkt und mehrfacht mit einem alten stumpfe Schraubendreher durch die Kanäle durchgeschoben - das spart insgesammt auch Lösemittel. Das Benzin verdunstet schnell und der Ölkohleschlamm kommt in den Altölkister. Den Zylinderkopf hatte ich ausgebaut, die Ventile rausgenommen und diese wie auch die Ansaugschächte genauso gereinigt.Tipp: Wenn der ZK schon ab ist, gleich die Glühkerzen mit tauschen, wenn die verkokten Keramikspitzen beim Rausdrehen abbrechen, kann man sie leicht rückwärts herausklopfen, ohne dass sie in den Brennraum fallen. Nach all dem zieht der alte Motor wieder wie Lotte und schafft auch die AU spielend. Danke für dieses wichtige Video.
"...I don't have the money to do that and I don't see why." I understand what you meant in context, but I like that phrase out of context a lot more! haha
Great video! thank you! Still relevant despite time. Russians are used to use your method like in this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lD31aZo8sBU.htmlsi=JH4MRhBy4NOJRt6S&t=951 especially when it comes to improve precision in lathe and drill working.
Thanks! I used a +5 degree angle, which as I found out later is not ideal. You actually would aim for something like a -5 degree angle, as I found out from some very old literature. Nevermind, for me it still felt okay to be honest. I also talked to an oldschool scraping guy, and he used a 0 degree angle for steel, which seemed perfect for him personally. So yeah, -5 degree by the book, but you can get away with other angles as well :)
The granite plate is precision ground on a surface grinder and later precision lapped against a lappingplate or another granite plate using a diamond lapping compound.
You did an outstanding job from start to finish, parallel surfaces even distribution of bearing points. YOUR FROSTING METHOD IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT FROM MINE, BUT THE RESULTS ARE THE SAME AS OIL WILL SPREAD ACROSS THE ENTIRE BEARING SURFACE WHICH WILL EFFICIENTLY REMOVE GRIT AND LUBRICATE EVEYTHING WHICH WILL DELAY OLD AGE FROM SETTING IN. WELL DONE!!!!
Thanks so much for your feedback! Highly appreciated! I guess there are so many different styles of scraping, that have evolved over years. But I really enjoy that fact - it's awesome that every company and every country around the world has a slightly different approach. Just awesome! Cheers mate!
OK, student, learn how to make the job easier. I scraped steel once, and never will again, but when you do it, use carbide, less force required and fewer resharpenings. The marking compound I prefer is Dykem Hi spot, made specifically for hand scraping It took hours searching online to learn how to make a surface plate when none are available, After all, SOMEBODY HAD TO MAKETHE FIRST ONE!!! Search"Whitworth 3 plate method of handscraping" To learnmore about the whole theory and processof scraping, search "Machine tool reconditioning andapplications of handscraping" STudy both, then scrape, scrape, scrape. When you have done all that, scrape some more, then grow old!Idid all that, then taught a few younger guys. You are a young guy, sogrow old and pass it all on to a younger guy.
It seems to me like it can never become flat with that method. The act of scraping cannot be done uniformly. There will always be a groove of varying depth. I guess it just isn't an issue
Haha, jetzt mal ein Tip von mir! Dichtungen raus Backofen reiniger einsprühren bei 80° im backofen für 45minuten ...und danach schön mit heizungbürste dat grobe raus bürsten und danach Geschirrspüler damit ! Es wird wie neu!
I have never liked Prussian blue for printing, it's very hard to read. Instead, use copper sulfate solution. The approximate formula is 150 ml water, 2 g copper sulfate, and 1 g of weak hydrochloric acid (sulfuric also works). Wipe the solution on clean dry metal plate with a clean paper towel, it will instantly turn lovely dark copper color. When rubbed on the surface plate, the high places are shiny and very easy to see. On the next printing, just wipe solution on the bare metal you have scraped. No worries about your surface plate, It will not damage it in any way.
Great video, thank you! The half-moon could be where the slab of steel got hit hard with a hammer of other tool late in its manufacturing process. I made my lapped plate using an ultra-precision spirit level instead of a Mahr gage. It came out at about 50 microns, I only needed about 130 microns flatness (for woodworking). It surprised me how accurate the spirit level was, I could have achieved probably 10 microns pretty easily.
