This channel is dedicated to my ever growing radio collection. I collect and attempt to repair mainly old transistor radios from Hacker, Roberts, Dynatron etc. I am a licensed amaeur radio operator (Ham) and live in North Devon, South West England. I welcome any tips and appreciate any feedback. Also if there's any particular radio you would like to see then ask as I may have it. I am always happy to help with repairs or advice so drop me an email if you need help.
My website www.radiocruncher.com/
Please check out my Patreon page and support me if you can patreon.com/radiocruncher
Super video. Put you finger on the OC71 between the output transistors and warm it up, the quiescent current drops like a stone, takes some time to recover!
Do you have any info on replacing the mains power regulator in an r606-mb? We have one we’d love to be able to plug in and stop having to use the batteries! It doesn’t seem to work from a power lead but the battery power works perfectly.
Hi Graham, thank you for this. As you have found out, neither the PL880 or the 2001D like being coupled to an external aerial from the socket! I know this from experience. The Tecsun AN200 is better on MW for these sets, as I have found out. By the way, I think that my 2001D sounds better than yours. Must be due to the mods you did on mine! 73s and GDX
Hi Jim. Thanks for the info! The ferrite coupler works better for LW and MW. My 2001D hasn't been touched yet so yours should be better. All the best Graham
I don't know why Soundesign didn't use Diode switching and one SO42P as the DBM+Local Oscillator would have simplified everything as the SO42P can go up to 200Mhz
hi mate ive emailed you about a bcm just want to know the capacitors you used, the 3 on the bit of board you replaced ? i cant hear any info on them in the other video, thanks
The foam in the white bag is for expansion as it gets hot it needs somewhere to go so it doesn't break the silicone potting and get water in it. i have seen emm's with 168 degrees Celsius as a recorded max temp so yer it can get hot
They should have used a SO42P for both the DBM+Local Oscillator then they could use a 10.7Mhz crystal and a second SO42P with a 10.695Mhz crystal to get 455Khz to be passed on to the ratio detector and the Am detector but if they fed a oscillator in the ratio detector to recover the audio.
Nice. I would like to find one un-molested for my small collection;but stayed away from that model due to those damn flex-cables. This one looks great. I missed the repair it seems. Well done at any rate!
Good job on the AN-1 👍🏻 I own one myself and have asked myself quite a few times in the past what I would do if one day it stops working, given that all electronics are drowned underneath that yucky layer of silicon, and no circuit diagrams available. Your patience and persistence are admirable -- I'm pretty sure I'd have thrown it in the bin 😄
Sir i change cap but now only hissing sound came no ssb,wide narrow change but am fm sw change but hissing sound remaining pls give suggestions.it seems to me computer panel ok , damage due to cap leak.thanks p dutta from india
Wow it almost looks brand new! I like the tape out and phonograph in jacks on the top. What a great sounding full-featured radio. Thanks for showing it.
I would cut a slot where the ribbon cable is Sony did this on the later ones to stop the ribbon being cut, That is what I did with mine and covered it in back tape to match the later ones.
Folding the new straight flat flex cable is a challenge. I also recommend replacing the battery spring, which is too strong and causes the housing to crack.
Yes it is a fiddle to fold and get the cover back on. I've heard of people cutting the springs back but didn't know of a replacement. Do you have any info on it?
Hi Graham a great video as ever love a rp25a I am sorry to see the ferrite rod damaged just can’t believe couriers hope it’s a straightforward job look forward to seeing the update Have got my rp37 to send you as I think the amp needs looking at all the best to you and Mrs cruncher Daniel
Hi Graham! On the broken ferrite: you should be fine with glueing and reinforcing it, as long as you keep the remaining gap to a minimum. Yes, the fracture might still lead to a slight decrease in relative magnetic permeability (and thereby to a slightly lower inductance of the coils wound on it, causing shifts in their resonance frequencies), but it should be no problem to compensate it by shifting the coils a bit, if at all. Cheers, Falk
Good day sir thank you for the video ,for the power supply 9vdc did you say center pin is negative ,i want to make sure before hook it up , the shematic i got say center pin positive . thank you in advance
Brings back memories. I worked for hacker radio before joining the army befween 1965 and 1968. Worked mostly on RP36A,RP35, I did vhf /front end alignment plus fault finding and repair. I think we put about 100 chassis or so a day through to final test and assembly
Great to hear from you Peter. It's always interesting to meet people that worked for Hacker and to hear their experiences. FM front end alignment is a bit of a dark art with the Hacker so if I get stuck I know where to come now 😉