I have an 07 with the infamous “Clunk” happening. I’ve replaced just about every single suspension component thinking one of those must be the culprit. Low and behold, the clunk persists. Not a total loss, those things were in need of replacement anyway, but next up is the intermediate shaft. If that doesn’t fix it, I’m going to replace the entire rack & pinion. Beyond that, a good shove over a steep cliff ought to fix the problem. 😅
@@MrShitrope agreed. Duralast aka Didn’tlast is another one. The clunk is gone. I think it was a combination of warped brake rotors and wheel bearings that were starting to go bad. Replaced both at the same time and now no more clunk. But now my tires need replacing. If it’s not one thing it’s another.
@@just__dave moog premium bearings last about 60.000km then start growling again,just out of warranty grrrr, il jus rip em out at 50.000kms and get new ones on warranty thats what you got to do these days!!! friggin crappy parts
Thanks for the video! Definitely easier than I thought it would be. They did the TSB on my 2008 but it started doing it again a few years later. Such a pain..
Again this anouther one of those parts chevy should be recalling as well as electric powersteering. I vote for the regular old style pump and rack design . At least you can still steer the car easily , if it failed. as long as your rolling even the slowest roll each an every one of us needs to complain . I dont like spending over a grand an then some for the fix
This is the second time I have changed my steering shaft on my g5 . The shaft is no problem. I have watched a few videos and no one shows the boot install as this is the most difficult phase. Any tips
There is a trick because it telescopes and old ones freeze up and its impossible to get off without cutting it in half. I found that out. Mine was about to snap also.
I feel like I've seen 40 year old cars with better looking steering shaft, the one I just took out is a little over 10..gm is such garbage, must be using the shittiest Chinese parts they can get their hands on. Plus my friends 2 year old Trax needs a new turbo apparently
Yah tru also the fuel line should be recalled everywhere but according to chevy its vin specific ok how tf is my fuel leak exactly the same leake they recalled fuck chevy n I'm a die hard Chevy guy
Yah buddy its normally a leak near the rear of the car driver side follow the silver line from rear door back it by the rear tire / exhaust it's due to the heat blanket shield thing holds moisture best thing I'd say to buy is on ebay there nylon lines an it comes with new fuel filter n its direct replacement instead of metal lines the lines include both fuel line an vent line I payed 140 like ebay but seriously fuck metal lines an grab those it fixes whole line engine bay the whole way to the fuel filter
Just finished doing this job on my Pontiac g5 gt mine looked just the same was about to break.. also did the front struts and sway bar links and rear shocks also brakes and rotors all around...also an oil change and fog light replacement
Cobalts have a stupid amount of suspension issues endless steering issues, if you can do it by learning from people like this person more power to you....you CAN do it yourself...save money and try.... I own a 2007 with 40'000 miles on it and its had both lower control arms and rear struts replaced now this issue 100% is the next problem. I'v had the power steering assist replaced along with the key/ignition recall..its endless folks. From a new car frame tested in Europe LONG before making its way replacing the Caviler in the USA you'd think Chevy had there sh** together but here we are..Proudly made in mexico south of texas for US dupes willing to buy it.
Just a thought nut if you're working on your vehicle might want to get longer extensions and a impact driver just makes some things a whole lot easier.
What was the size and length of that bolt you had to remove in the steering linkage? I have misplaced mine and I don't even know what I'm looking for...
My 2009 cobalt is making a clicking sound when turning the wheel at a stop. There is also vibration coming from the steering wheel when applying the brakes. It's not the front pads/rotors, I changed those out and it still vibrates. I'm going to check my steering shaft this weekend. I don't want to crash with my family in the car. You are not the only person to mention how rusty this shaft got and the joint looseness. It appears only two bolts hold this in place, but like you said it's a big pain in the ass to get it out. Thanks for the video
One more thing to mention is I have bought new rotors that were warped from the factory. Never take any thing for granted. I replaced 3 power steering pumps because 2 were junk from a reputable auto parts store
I just did this replacement. Picked up the part off rock auto. I followed all instructions. My only concern is that I had my wheels straight and my steering wheel straight. But when I went to do a test drive when I try to drive straight the car goes to the left a little not much. You think an alignment or wheel balance is needed? I would hate to do a do-over with this part
You should get an alignment. when I did my first one I was off by a couple of teeth on the shaft so rather then take it all apart I opted to get an alignment. let me know how you make out
I have a Cobalt, with mine the control arm bushings ( hockey puck shaped bushings ) were causing the clunking sounds when going over bumps, and sometimes when braking, after the control arms were replaced, no more clunking sounds.
