I like both stihl and husky, but that 500i for so many cc plus the saw is so lite, only reason I would lean towards husky is that I can get heated handles and I do like the gap heated handles, bu both are very good saws
Works great. You can screw the wood screw in by hand, and it will give enough bite to pull the plugs. My hobby knife for the tabs, and the thing looks new. Plus, now I have to learn to tune this thing.
I have a ms261,bought it a year ago. I like your idea and might try it. What did you use to cut slots in muffler? Also does the ms261 have a spark arrestor? If so is it easily removed?
They all have spark arrestors. It's located in the factory exhaust outlet. It's held in by one little screw. I used a small cutting disc on my rotary tool to cut the slots. I then carefully used a screwdriver and needle nose pliers to bend them outward.
@@Andyshine77 ok gotcha,I just found my spark arester and took it out lol. Don’t know if it will improve my engine performance any but I didn’t want it in there.
There are way too many problems with these saws! They make great power but are not durable or reliable. The issue I'm seeing is leaking intake boots, cracked cases, and bad carbs. The 661 had numerous issues early on, but they've been rectified.
Yes, as long as it's really close to TDC on the compression stroke, you're fine. The valves will be closed. There's no need to use an indicator or anything like that. But it has to be on the compression stroke so both valves are closed.
One of the thinner oils with more solvents. Yamalube R2, RedArmor. That said, most oils will be fine in cold temperatures, stay away from the straight esters, they get more viscous in the cold due to the lower solvent content. Bel-Ray H1R, Klotz R50 and similar oils.
@III-eq7nl I think they would both work fine in the cold. The only real issue you would have with the more concentrated oils would be at startup. I used to run Klotz R50, and in the cold, they surely were stiff to pull over, Amsoil Dominator was similar. Once running their perfectly fine. So I really wouldn't overthink it too much.
I see more buildup around the rings and even a little on the piston skirt. I also would like to have seen more residual oil on the bottom end. Don't det me wrong it's a good product, but I've seen better.
I’m looking at the STIHL 2024 POWER TOOLS & ACCESSORIES booklet I received from my local dealership. On page 51 center right on that page it clearly states “STIHL ROLLOMATIC ES LIGHT” “…up to30% lighter than the STIHL ROLLOMATIC E…”. If that is not true, then it is a lie. It does not say, only on long bars, or only if you replace your shorter bar with a longer bar, or only if weighing on the moon, it says 30% lighter. A 20” bar is not a short bar, but it definitely is not a long bar, but additionally, 30% is 30% no matter what the volume.
I just bought a new Stihl Rollomatic ES Light to replace my original Stihl Rollomatic E Standard bar for my Stihl MS 362 C-M. I was really looking forward to adding a 30% decreased weight to an already light saw further increasing the power to weight ratio of this beast of a chain saw. So I get the new light bar and immediately weigh the bare bar on my wife’s kitchen food scale, with the light bar coming in at 32.9 ounces. So then I go to the shed and change out the new bar for the old, clean up the old bar real good, because I’m going to be weighing it on my wife’s food scale, and it comes in at 36.0 ounces, a whopping 3.1 ounces lighter, or an unimpressive 10%. Now I ask myself, why did I just pay $148, three times as much as I could have for a Standard bar, to save a mere 3.1 ounces? I was expecting the bar to be 30% lighter, which would have been about a 25 ounce bar. Stihl, you lied to me!
@brettblack7049 It's an aftermarket tune. The 3rd gen transmission is goofy from the factory it always tries to be in the highest gear for MPG's, but it just ends up shifting too much. The throttle input is also very slow to respond from the factory. This is good for rock crawling but not for around town use. The tune takes care of most of that. The tune also changes the engine's torque curve, which makes it have more grunt without having to rev as much. A lot can be done through tuning with modern engines. I had a 2010 with the 4.0 1gr-fe, and it had more grunt. The 3.5 is gutless without a tune. Now, it has some pep.
@Andyshine77 interesting, thanks for the lesson. Many of the new rides have issues with the cylinder kill crap, I think the variable valve timing was a great system, then they added to many electronics on top of it...
I’ll send 3 running 10-10’s for that poulan lol they’re not the most reliable but good saws maybe try the 605/610 series they’re very underrated but very powerful.
I've got around 8-10 cord here to split, and it just keeps piling up. I told my boy and wife early last week we are moving into splitting mode, so I started making preparations for that. Unfortunately I planned on starting Friday and it was raining all day after we finished up a storm damaged cherry removal. Tomorrow evening looks great though, 54 and clear. Have a great day.
Brett, it's good to hear from you! I have about that much sitting waiting to get split myself. I even picked up a new splitter a few weeks back. All the best, brother!
I switched to echo because their warranties are better, they are cheaper to repair…i brought my 576xp into the dealer…took them a week and a half to tell me “i need a new carburetor”…didnt tell me what was wrong with the carb…just that i needed a new one…that thing only ran non ethanol…with red armor…and it was 6 years old…probably 30 hours on it total… The autotune carbs are $150…standard carbs are $50….$150 to install, so, $300 to replace a carb….$1100 saw…
