Automotive tech tips, product reviews, how-tos, and first-person racing coverage from your friendly neighborhood racing driver. Our goal is to educate, entertain, and introduce car enthusiasts to some lesser-known facts from the world of high-performance automobiles.
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Try wrapping the teflon lengthwise around the bushing and going all the way around. It looks really strange, and you will have to cut it on the ends to push the metal insert in, but it can work better in those scenarios.
They can be useless for engines, but are useful for things like transmissions/bearings/differentials. Still no excuse for the lack of hour meters on cars but since most users know next to nothing about their cars, manufacturers won't bother.
First of all, thank you for this video! I have a Civic EK4 VTi with the b16a2 engine (European version) and I'm considering installing an Mfactory helical LSD. I would be very interested to know if oversteer is reduced after the installation. Logically, since the power is distributed more effectively to the two front wheels, the likelihood of losing rear traction is automatically reduced. On the other hand, I wonder if since the front part of the car is more stable, it might make it easier for the rear to slide out? I am mainly referring to high speeds. Thank you in advance for any response.
Thank you for watching! Installing a helical LSD will typically not reduce or induce oversteer in a FWD car. It will make the car more eager to turn in when you apply the throttle with the steering wheel turned, however, so the car will feel like it has less understeer in the middle of and exit of corners. I hope that makes sense!
Holy shit man, thank you so much. I have no idea why this isn't talked about more. I've watched a dozen Civic brake install videos in preparation for doing it myself, and not a single person has mentioned this. And nearly every video, they struggle getting the screw out. Makes perfect sense why lol. I had no idea this even existed, but I really appreciate you for making this video!!
actually one major reason is the inner steel tube are too short. Just add a shim in front of the inner tube to increase its lenght so the front faces of the bushing dont rub against your subframe.
Thank you! I'm afraid the fix involves replacing the engine. There is a big chunk missing out of piston #3. Our best guess for the moment is that the FRM cylinder wall liners on our Honda H22 engine wore through, and the piston ring contacted the bare metal of the block, resulting in the failure. Plans for our new engine are already in the works, and we hope to have it in and ready for later this season.
@@StudioVRM Thanks for the info on the engine. It will be interesting to see what you run next. I believe I remember reading about your h23a1 vs the current h22. So hopefully the new engine is just as good.
will try this on the polyurethane disks/bushings of a sliding system in a rowing boat. marine greace seems a good idea, as we use it for lubrication of the propellershaft running through a stuffing box. In my boat I have around 47 C degrees on the bearing measured. So I think so long you have to deal with high temperatures, such grease might work well also in a car. :-)
did my front brakes yesterday, i borrowed one of those from a friend as i didnt have a #3 screwdriver/bit.. i had to buy bits before using, attempted using #3 bit on ratchet - worked fine.
I must be the luckiest bloke alive. All four of mine came off with an impact driver, and minimal effort. Unbelievable. Good call on the screw head though 👍
Got the p3 vessel impacta because of this video to remove my 7 y/o rotors to install drilled and slotted. It didn't work. I was very disappointed. I smacked the crap out of that thing with a hammer for like 20 minutes, but the screw didn't budge, it started to strip a little and I got tired and frustrated. I sprayed some pb blaster on the screw and let it marinate for about 5 minutes. Pissed off and running out of daylight I used my makita impact gun with a p3 pozidriv bit since that's the closest to the jis head. Came right out on both sides. The vessel didn't work for me. But at least this guided me not to use a Philips head. I think the pb blaster with the pozidriv p3 is gonna be my jam for this repair. Returning the vessel to Amazon. Also there was a video that my wife found that was comparing the vessel impacta to just an impact gun with jis bit. Dino's tinkershed on youtube. Impact gun with the jis bit won. Impacta came highly touted, but didn't deliver for this type of job. If it wasn't for the impact gun I'd probably still be out there smacking the vessel with a hammer. Freaking irritating.
Well presented video, so many You Tubers get this wrong and I wish I knew this when I was younger, all the times I cut a slot into these screws to remove them and end up having to buy new ones 🥴
Thank you so much for this video it makes such complete sense when looking at the screws on the rotors my first thought was that their shape wouldn't fit any Phillips head screwdriver that I have who knew the reason behind it? Well you did obviously and I appreciate you making this video
Excellent video showing the difference between the JIS and Phillips. Other videos just said those screw are JIS but never explained or showed why. I kept wondering why the JIS is different as it looks quite similar to the Phillips. Thanks.
My concern is that anit-sieze compounds contain aluminum or copper as a rule. Using this on conductors can create a bridge causing a slow power drain or worse, a short in tightly packed multi wire connectors. For electrical, I would stick to true dielectric (silicon) grease.
To those who state that the screws aren’t needed there are many who say they actually help the rotors stay on and stop the wiggle as it’s called. I hate the screws as well, I have the vessel impact screwdriver and it’s not helping on my 2000 Accord four-door right now. I have to drill out the screws, but like I said, before people are stating that they are useful.
