You never took us outside to see the outside and you didn’t even say what you stuffed it with for somebody that doesn’t know that None of that was clear at all
bs keller you have a knack for video. clear, calm, concise. and unlike some people i thought the video was informative. It appeared that window was a little off center. left side seemed like more than 3/4 lol could have been the camera angle. What was it you called stuffing. ? was it expanding foam? good luck keep rocking the vids bro!
Jimmy War I'd say that's right, this is a rookie video. As you can see, it's the first and only DIY video I posted. Was doing a lot of diy work in my basement and thought a quick summary might be helpful to those doing the same. Even though it's not perfect, I'm glad the video has been helpful to a lot of people.
Wish you would talk about how to size the window before hand. I have old metal tilt outs that are a very snug 18 inch tall and 32 and a tad over wide. So since there has to be mortar it sits in where you have shimed for fit, I would buy 16' leaving an inch top and bottom? How about wide? Allow an inch each side? so I would need a 30 by 16 premade glass block set?
I would've liked to seen the outside of the window. I am about to put mine in and I was curious if it's better to put the glassblock flush with the outside brick of my house or inset an inch. I have seen it done both ways many times and curious to know if one way is better than the other?
masonarygary Some of the other frames on the windows in my basement were steel set a quarter inch in concrete. See discussion below about using an angle grinder or sawzall to get at tougher frames... it can be a bear.
Nice. I just did this on my own windows without seeing this. I used a grout bag for the mortar to fill in the bottom and sides. It was neater, fast and easy on the clean up. Caulk at the top just like yours. Now we have window in the basement we may open up in the summer.
Mortar will work too. In my situation, the space at the top was less than a cm. It would have been tough to pack mortar evenly throughout so I used window/door caulk instead.
I have been installing glass block for 12 years now. For the people that plan to do this themselves... If you have wood or steel windows, you will more than likely need a breaker bar, sawzall or circular saw. Caulking on the top of the windows is not necessary because for centuries mortar and wood have got along great as seen in houses standing well over a century. However it will last longer than the mortar around your window, mortar between the blocks in your foundation and etc.
$45 is a good deal. When I mixed the mortar I put a little water in the bucket first so the mortar wouldn't get airborne as much when I started dumping it. Then I slowly added mortar and water until I got the right consistency. Not hard if you take it slow. And stuffing the gaps is really straightforward. I used rubber gloves and stuffed it with my hands. When it was pretty much stuffed I used the edge of my thumb to smooth over the outside. Water and a washcloth will do the trick for clean up.
nice video bsbkeller...i only wish you showed when u mixed the cement--how you mudded it in the window ....besides that..excellent.....we have a place here in Rochester that sells premade windows for $45/window --u pickup...hell of a deal!..my spring project
JT, when I run a dehumidifier in my basement I close the windows. Otherwise you get moist air coming in simply replacing the dry air your dehumidifier has treated. If you are concerned about fresh air down there maybe you could vent it once in a while like you said. But if you want to dry it out leave the windows shut.
Hey Bs. Thx for the vid. Got a really dumb ?. I live in Western Mass. And want to replace basement windows with ones you have in vid. Question is about ventilation. I have a dehumidifier running all the time because I guess bc there is no ventilation in basement. So should i leave windows open to let fresh air in? Or only open window vent once in a while? thx much! JT
$80/window sounds like a really good deal. Retail price for the window itself is sometimes as high as $70. I got two quotes for my windows before starting the project and the cheapest I found was $150/window. That was for them to build the windows though (i.e., not using the pre-made ones). If your neighbors' windows look good I would go for it.
Thank you!! I'm still a little nervous about trying it on our own, but we may just go ahead and do it. Our neighbor hired theirs out for $80/window. Between material and time, it's sounding like that might be a good way to go. Regardless, yours is the best video I have seen on this project! Thanks for posting!
The first one took me longer than the fifth (I did five total). A lot depended on how difficult it was to get the metal frame out of the concrete opening. I spent a couple hours with a masonry chisel and hammer fighting with a frame that was set deep in the concrete. Someone in a comment below noted that an angle grinder is useful for that and would speed it up. After the opening is cleaned up it's a breeze. Level the window and mortar it.
Nice to hear from a pro but I respectfully disagree! The install instructions for the windows I used state that silicone based caulk should be used where the window comes into contact with wood. The instructions can be viewed at their website at IPSGLASSBLOCK. My windows have been up for a couple of years now and I have no problems or drafts. Also, I didn't use a grout bag, I just stuffed the mortar by hand with rubber gloves on. That worked for me and looks great.
I've been installing for about 12 years. And not once have I had a draft above my windows after a complete install. DO NOT CAULK THE TOP OF THE WINDOW use mortar. He should have chipped out the the excess mortar on the wash. laid down the mortar set the window on top for a 100% guaranteed seal, which also makes the leveling and plumbing process easier. Use a grout bag for everything he didn't show, silica sand and type s or n mortar.
@@davidpark905the compressive strength of glass and mortar is impressive there's no concerns unless the it's sagging and preventing the correct size window going in.
coachbill60, I put this video together because back when I started on the first window in my basement there was nothing like it on youtube. I focused on what would have been helpful to me to know as I was just getting started or thinking about getting started (which is where I think most people will be at who are looking this up). Sorry you didn't find the video helpful but saying it is useless is kinda jerky.
This video is useless. Anything that you might have trouble with is edited out. This is not a hard job to do but I think people want to see the WORK being done.
@phuubar As you can see in the vid, the window header was made of wood, not concrete, so mortar would not have been appropriate. That's why I shimmed up the window so it was very close to the wood and then used a bead of caulk on inside and outside to seal it up. I cleaned up with a wet rag.
@nsmock Thanks for the update and congrats on getting your window done! Cedar and caulk will definitely work. I think it's a matter of taste and durability. I personally like the look of the glassblock mortar. I also like that I don't have to worry about rot. Granted, the fact that you used cedar will help prevent that but it still rots eventually. And if the sun is hitting it on the outside you will have peeling, fading, and cracking. Hopefully that won't happen for a long time though!
