Good straightforward installation instructions. Our crews like to use a pastry bag to install the mortar around the sides (jambs) and bottom (sill) to make the project easier. Adding the vent in the windows is a good idea as well to allow for a more environmentally friendly basement with cross ventilation.
Nice video. I just installed a glass block window today and your instructions helped out a lot. I had to use a reciprocating saw with a metal blade to get the old frame out, but everything else was pretty straight forward. One tip I'd like to offer is to use a silicone kitchen spatula to smooth out the mortar around the edges. the rounded part gives a good angle with enough pressure to make a good seal.
Jimmy War I'd say that's right, this is a rookie video. As you can see, it's the first and only DIY video I posted. Was doing a lot of diy work in my basement and thought a quick summary might be helpful to those doing the same. Even though it's not perfect, I'm glad the video has been helpful to a lot of people.
Nice. I just did this on my own windows without seeing this. I used a grout bag for the mortar to fill in the bottom and sides. It was neater, fast and easy on the clean up. Caulk at the top just like yours. Now we have window in the basement we may open up in the summer.
Nice to hear from a pro but I respectfully disagree! The install instructions for the windows I used state that silicone based caulk should be used where the window comes into contact with wood. The instructions can be viewed at their website at IPSGLASSBLOCK. My windows have been up for a couple of years now and I have no problems or drafts. Also, I didn't use a grout bag, I just stuffed the mortar by hand with rubber gloves on. That worked for me and looks great.
@nsmock Thanks for the update and congrats on getting your window done! Cedar and caulk will definitely work. I think it's a matter of taste and durability. I personally like the look of the glassblock mortar. I also like that I don't have to worry about rot. Granted, the fact that you used cedar will help prevent that but it still rots eventually. And if the sun is hitting it on the outside you will have peeling, fading, and cracking. Hopefully that won't happen for a long time though!
Thanks for the comment Jzs20. This one was pretty easy. On some of the other windows I did the metal frame had been set deeper in the concrete before it was dry. Those were really hard to get out. Masonry chisel and hammer and lots of pounding, chipping, and pulling finally did the trick, but it wasn't easy. Good luck!
The first one took me longer than the fifth (I did five total). A lot depended on how difficult it was to get the metal frame out of the concrete opening. I spent a couple hours with a masonry chisel and hammer fighting with a frame that was set deep in the concrete. Someone in a comment below noted that an angle grinder is useful for that and would speed it up. After the opening is cleaned up it's a breeze. Level the window and mortar it.
$45 is a good deal. When I mixed the mortar I put a little water in the bucket first so the mortar wouldn't get airborne as much when I started dumping it. Then I slowly added mortar and water until I got the right consistency. Not hard if you take it slow. And stuffing the gaps is really straightforward. I used rubber gloves and stuffed it with my hands. When it was pretty much stuffed I used the edge of my thumb to smooth over the outside. Water and a washcloth will do the trick for clean up.
Thank you!! I'm still a little nervous about trying it on our own, but we may just go ahead and do it. Our neighbor hired theirs out for $80/window. Between material and time, it's sounding like that might be a good way to go. Regardless, yours is the best video I have seen on this project! Thanks for posting!
Hi jonschluenz, seems like a backer rod would be a good idea, though I would probably use caulk instead of mortar to finish the seal over the rod. I used regular old glass block mortar for mine which worked just fine... no air leaks.
JT, when I run a dehumidifier in my basement I close the windows. Otherwise you get moist air coming in simply replacing the dry air your dehumidifier has treated. If you are concerned about fresh air down there maybe you could vent it once in a while like you said. But if you want to dry it out leave the windows shut.
$80/window sounds like a really good deal. Retail price for the window itself is sometimes as high as $70. I got two quotes for my windows before starting the project and the cheapest I found was $150/window. That was for them to build the windows though (i.e., not using the pre-made ones). If your neighbors' windows look good I would go for it.
nice video bsbkeller...i only wish you showed when u mixed the cement--how you mudded it in the window ....besides that..excellent.....we have a place here in Rochester that sells premade windows for $45/window --u pickup...hell of a deal!..my spring project
bs keller you have a knack for video. clear, calm, concise. and unlike some people i thought the video was informative. It appeared that window was a little off center. left side seemed like more than 3/4 lol could have been the camera angle. What was it you called stuffing. ? was it expanding foam? good luck keep rocking the vids bro!
I've been installing for about 12 years. And not once have I had a draft above my windows after a complete install. DO NOT CAULK THE TOP OF THE WINDOW use mortar. He should have chipped out the the excess mortar on the wash. laid down the mortar set the window on top for a 100% guaranteed seal, which also makes the leveling and plumbing process easier. Use a grout bag for everything he didn't show, silica sand and type s or n mortar.
I haven't done any other than the ones in my basement but my guess would be that the only difference would be in removing the metal frame. Once you get it out I'd imagine everything would be the same. Getting it out might be more difficult because it may have more surface area and depth set in the concrete. If hammering at it with tools doesn't work you could always try a metal cutting blade on a sawzall.
What type of mortar did you use? I have also been advised to use backer rod to get a better seal between the foundation and the window edge. Any thought? Thanks for the video.
bsbkeller, I recently bought a set of Pitsburgh Corning Glass Block windows for my basement and everything I have been told and read gives no indication of expansion and cracking worry. So I think you will be all set. I am installing these in my duplex up here in NH where temps go far below zero. I am hoping they will do great under these conditions, considering I currently have just a single pane standrad basement window that offers nothing of preventing cold air from entering.
@phuubar As you can see in the vid, the window header was made of wood, not concrete, so mortar would not have been appropriate. That's why I shimmed up the window so it was very close to the wood and then used a bead of caulk on inside and outside to seal it up. I cleaned up with a wet rag.
I have been installing glass block for 12 years now. For the people that plan to do this themselves... If you have wood or steel windows, you will more than likely need a breaker bar, sawzall or circular saw. Caulking on the top of the windows is not necessary because for centuries mortar and wood have got along great as seen in houses standing well over a century. However it will last longer than the mortar around your window, mortar between the blocks in your foundation and etc.
Hey Bs. Thx for the vid. Got a really dumb ?. I live in Western Mass. And want to replace basement windows with ones you have in vid. Question is about ventilation. I have a dehumidifier running all the time because I guess bc there is no ventilation in basement. So should i leave windows open to let fresh air in? Or only open window vent once in a while? thx much! JT
Hi jkbxpunk1. I wasn't aware that expansion could be a big problem. The install instruction for the windows I bought (which you can view at the IPSGLASSBLOCK website) don't mention it so I'm hoping it's not an issue. I'll let you know if all my windows start cracking though!
I would've liked to seen the outside of the window. I am about to put mine in and I was curious if it's better to put the glassblock flush with the outside brick of my house or inset an inch. I have seen it done both ways many times and curious to know if one way is better than the other?
Mortar will work too. In my situation, the space at the top was less than a cm. It would have been tough to pack mortar evenly throughout so I used window/door caulk instead.
Wish you would talk about how to size the window before hand. I have old metal tilt outs that are a very snug 18 inch tall and 32 and a tad over wide. So since there has to be mortar it sits in where you have shimed for fit, I would buy 16' leaving an inch top and bottom? How about wide? Allow an inch each side? so I would need a 30 by 16 premade glass block set?
coachbill60, I put this video together because back when I started on the first window in my basement there was nothing like it on youtube. I focused on what would have been helpful to me to know as I was just getting started or thinking about getting started (which is where I think most people will be at who are looking this up). Sorry you didn't find the video helpful but saying it is useless is kinda jerky.
I thought you would of used caulking and/or expansion foam to help secure the glass window due to the fact that glass needs room to expand and contract with temperature fluctuations; otherwise your window will crack.
masonarygary Some of the other frames on the windows in my basement were steel set a quarter inch in concrete. See discussion below about using an angle grinder or sawzall to get at tougher frames... it can be a bear.
You never took us outside to see the outside and you didn’t even say what you stuffed it with for somebody that doesn’t know that None of that was clear at all
This video is useless. Anything that you might have trouble with is edited out. This is not a hard job to do but I think people want to see the WORK being done.
Good straightforward installation instructions. Our crews like to use a pastry bag to install the mortar around the sides (jambs) and bottom (sill) to make the project easier. Adding the vent in the windows is a good idea as well to allow for a more environmentally friendly basement with cross ventilation.
