I'm Grant aka the Rusty Autoholic Guy. On this channel, you'll initially see Jeep work but I plan to work on a wide variety of vehicles over time. I'll be utilizing time-lapse and short detailed explanations to bring you all the information in a concise, watchable video. I will also be putting together periodic summary videos for those who want the high level perspective.
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Glad the video was helpful! I've owned a few later model CJ-5s, but I could see a TDI working very well in an early or later model CJ-5! That would be a fun rig!
I almost went om617 early on, I was looking at various engines I could have used for this swap. I'd like to do a OM606 swap someday, it's such a good engine. YJs are underrated in my opinion, sounds like you have a great setup for sure!
I blew up the HEMI in my Commander 10 years ago with 140K miles, it now has 187K on it with its new motor. Be prepared to replace everything in the commander. The electrical gremlins are the worst... My 2011 Ford F350 6.7 Powerstroke has 280K miles on it and I've had 0 unexpected failures in 14 years.
Thank you! I've often wondered why Jeep didn't put a diesel in these TJs in the US. They had a 2.5l VM Motori diesel that they ran in XJ Cheokees outside the US, both auto and manual, that would have been a fantastic platform for these TJs.
I used a remote mount bypass thermostat. Under 190, the coolant goes into the engine. Over it goes into the radiator. The heater return is also in this circuit. This really helps the heater work while not compromising cooling when it's hot out.
I'm glad you've enjoyed the 6 year journey at this point! I am currently enjoying things, it's been a long process but it's paid off in the end as well!
25-26 PSI of boost?!? Those are rookie numbers, you need to bring those numbers UP!! I took the CJ on a 40 mile trip today, and the XJ I did over 130 miles driving up to Clayton and back. If you feel like you can do it, you're more than welcome to come down here. If something happens we can always use the Tundra to go get you and take you back home.
I need to make my way done there sometime soon when I have some more free time! As for the boost, I've never seen it above 26 ~ 27 psi. I've been told the housing on my turbo is a bit restrictive, there is another housing the flows better supposedly. Also I know my intercooler and the number of bends in my intercooler piping isn't helping me either.
@@RustyAutoholicGuy You're more than welcome, whenever. Just give me a call to make sure I'll be home, lol. I forgot you had a GTD1752, so it's good to about 30 PSI. The 1756 is 34. I have one on the XJ now, and one showing up tomorrow to replace the HE200WG on the CJ (it runs 30). It's strange that you're not hitting 30 PSI when hammered down. I see 36-37 when really into the XJ, which is pretty damn good. Stevenson had me over 35 PSI on a 24 PSI tune. Poor VNT17.
I would highly recommend the CompuShift controller. Also check out my latter video where I swap the valve body on my AW4 with one from a Toyota A340F out of a 2wd Toyota Tacoma. The updated valve body fixes several issues with the AW4 valve body.
It's been working great, the only thing is you can not use a clocking ring with it, the input spline on the NP241OR Rubicon case isn't long enough to seal the input shaft into the seal on the back of the AW4, but other than that, it's been fantastic.
Thanks for your reply! Forgive me if I missed it but did you cover the seal in some of your videos? So how did you seal the input shaft into the back of the aw4?
that smart diesel makes a good diesel motorcycle engine too. Search the Track diesel Motorcycle. Also a few folks did their on conversions using this engine on a Triumph Tiger if Im not mistaken
is this fuel tank sending unit lever only problem you have had using the CDI Liberty pump? I have a TJ with an MB 617. having to redo the builders fuel pick up bung... it leaks air.. so thinking on doing what you didthough I would NOT neeed the pump... (except for occasional prime and pumping the tank free of water/algae etc. (since their is no tank drain) ) Or do you see a way to do use TJ pump for above thoughts... (does it allow for suck thru when TJ pump is off?) .... or gut the pump and just use it as nothing more than a fuel pickup??
Great video.im doing the aw4 conversion into my 01 TJ 4.0 ...was had planned to just get the old 3 speed and be done with it.the aw4 seems a better option.
Thank you! I'm a huge fan of the AW4, mostly because of it's light, cheap, simple and with the correct controlling, it works extremely well for what it is!
First off, sick build. Second, did you custom order the turbo to have the water cooling and flat flange instead of the v band clamp? Also, did you ask for egr to be deleted?
Thank you! I actually didn't order the turbo with the water cooling though I'm glad it has it. It definitely seems to be helping with keeping the center section bearing cooled. It also came with the flat mount and the EGR deleted. I don't believe I asked for either of those but I would need to double check.
Because I only needed 7psi of pressure delivered to the diesel engine and the gas engine pump in my 06 TJ was designed for closer to 60psi. There were multiple ways of solving this issue and I decided to replace the pump with a lift pump out of a Diesel Jeep Liberty since it had the same mounting design on the fuel tank.
I have a 2011 2 door jk. Planning on tdi swapping it lowering it. As well as swapping in an np242 or some other full time awd or 4wd transfer case. This one is my around town delivery rig and I want it lean, agile, and efficient.
Video was worthless! Didn't show any screws or bolts and where anything goes. Just shows soft top removed, and had top installed. No instructional value at all! You guys really didn't do anyone any good! Like watching a cake being made, but no information on ingredients or what cake your making! Totally worthless video
Here is the link to the part I ordered, not sure on the part number: www.amazon.com/VOTEX-Compatible-1998-2005-Volkswagen-06A-121-132C/dp/B075VGRH5Q/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0?pd_rd_w=QrZVV&content-id=amzn1.sym.352fa4e9-2aa8-47c3-b5ac-8a90ddbece20%3Aamzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=352fa4e9-2aa8-47c3-b5ac-8a90ddbece20&pf_rd_r=9W306Y7QNK9VAC6T2PNG&pd_rd_wg=abQVP&pd_rd_r=11756828-c354-4240-a149-df885f427338&pd_rd_i=B075VGRH5Q
Glad the info was helpful! It's not my daily, I have a 2021 Eco-Diesel Gladiator for that, though this has become my in-town only vehicle if I just need to run quick errands. It's so small and easy to maneuver. However if I have both my kids with my or I'm going out of town, I take the Gladiator.
Dumb questions, but you still have the oil cooler connected, right? And just so you're aware, the engine runs happiest between 200-210. Both mine are running around 203-205 and I have a temp in the same location as you.
Awesome video! This has definitely fueled my idea on wanting to tdi swap my Ford Ranger. I have been kicking around the idea just to have better torque and fuel mileage. Would you know roughly what stall rate the stock converter was? Im trying to keep as much of the original drivetrain as possible, and there is a kit by tdi conversion that will allow me to bolt right to my 5r55e transmission. Im sure my stock converter stall rate might be too high. Any comments are much appreciated.
My friend and i work on 7 of em...they can be quite problematic. Yes there is a clutch its shifted by the ECM. They have issues with the intercoolers causing low boost pressure and dirtys the EGR valves.. Huge loss of power...we just replaced a few turbos. And cleaned EGRS....MADE DRAMATIC DIFFERENCES!
Thank you so much! I plan to come out that way once I get some more things wrapped up and improved. I still really need to get the interior put back together, but I'm itching to do a long road trip with this build!
Unfortunately I have not, and with this Valve Body I don't think it would be possible because the CompuShift controls the line pressure which makes the AW4 run extremely well!
So as far I know the person selling all the Kubota stuff closed shop. I will be selling all my Kubota stuff soon as one big bundle. Engine, Turbo, Adapter, Engine Mounts, Hydroboost and accessory drive.
Some cooling help, maybe. Comparing my '83 Toyota FJ60 LC with Cummins 3.9 4BT to my '07 Jeep Wrangler JKU also with the 4BT, the JKU tends to run much hotter. Why? The Jeep has a much tighter engine compartment with a water to air intercooler radiator out front, a mostly in-the-bumper winch and a bull bar with a light bar. The Toyota, with a huge engine compartment, no intercooler, no light bar on the bull bar doesn't need the electric fan connected. Yes, it runs cool with NO fan at all. Tried the no fan mode with my Jeep and rapidly overheated climbing into town on the highway (65 mph). Apparently, the Jeep body design doesn't flow the air that the Toyota can. Is it possible that the tanks on your intercooler and the CFM of your fan are failing to flow enough air to maintain normal temps? Could too much air be bypassing your radiator due to missing factory plastic inserts? An old engine swapping book said you can have a 6 foot by 4 foot radiator and still overheat if you don't have enough airflow. Yes, it will take a long time to overheat, but then you have a large volume of hot coolant.
RustyA... Could you please show the fan shrouding behind the radiator? You need a tight shroud to make the fan suck air when the fan is working hard at low speed...... but the shroud can have large cut outs with top hinged rubber flaps on the rear of them that automatically open up under forward speed thus allowing much more air to flow through the radiator at cruise when the electric/mechanical fan isn't needed or isn't effective...and a tight shroud just blocks airflow..... At speed the rubber flaps open up from the inrush of air through the radiator which can double the amount of air ;passing through the radiator core.... When speed drops the rubber flaps close up making the fan effective in drawing the maximum air through the radiator..... Also seal off the radiator edges all around so air cannot freely flow into the engine compartment... any air must be forced through the radiator... You could also have a separate air intake for the engine combustion air....this being taken from in front of the radiators....the colder the better for a diesel. (From the owner of a 1991 Nissan Terrano JDM 2.7TD for the last 20 years)
LOL I couldn't remember and I had to go watch the video to see what you were talking about. I don't show but I also go around with my Craftsman Torque Wrench and torque each lugnut to spec afterwards.
wft is a twiflouahthee? Oh, it's two zero three. kk, I'm caught up now. I think. Still could be a twin flow three, I have no idea. Nope, I'm still wrong, V two four zero three.
I had one of these. 1. The tranny is a mess. It shifts really, really slow. Like someone who is learning to drive standard. If they had just popped a regular 4 or 5 speed manual in them it would have been a much more drivable car. as it stands making left hand turns was kind of an adventure. 2. Computer issues. The auto/manual transmission is computer controlled and prone to failure. The tranny itself seems solid enough but it was prone to electrical issues. 3. Impossible to work on. Unless you've got little elf hands. Changing the serpentine belt requires taking off the rear tire and rear fender. If you need to change a headlight you have to take the whole front of the car off. Which is easier than you'd think, it's like 15 bolts. Still. I had an alternator go on mine. I got really lucky, in all of north america there was one in Toronto. We fed-ex'ed it in. Otherwise you were getting one off a slow boat from germany. A couple of the bolts on the old one were rusted on and it took a very experienced mechanic 2 hours to pull the old alternator off. There's just no room to work. 4. It hates the cold. With new glow plugs it would start down to about... -15C without being plugged in. After 1.5 years of use it wouldn't start in -8 weather. It doesn't come with a block heater, however you can go to Canadian Tire and buy one of those heaters that just sticks onto the block. You'll need it. Once you get it started it will never build up heat. I think it only takes 8 litres of coolant, you wouldn't think that would be an issue but yeah, it will never heat up so you'll never get heat in the cabin. Benz knew this and equipped it with an electric heater. The electric heater is as prone to failure as the AC. In the winter I had a windshield scraper handy to be able to see. 5. Learn to change your own oil. You can't take it to a normal oil change place because it won't fit over the rack, more than that the oil doesn't drain from the bottom. I mean you can take the oil filter off, run the car until it's all gone but I wouldn't suggest that. You're supposed to suck the oil out from the top. I had a pump that attached to a drill, it worked well enough I suppose. It took 10+ minutes to suck all the oil out though. FYI Benz charges $500 for an oil change and it doesn't matter what the car is, they know how to do it and have all the stuff but yeah... $500. So yes, learn to change your own oil. 6. Door handles. sometimes the doors won't close. They did a recall on this. I took it into Benz and they did the recall work. It still wasn't great afterwards though. 7. Power. You'll loose 30 percent of your power in the cold. Your fuel milage will go down to about 38mpg or so in the winter. you can realistically get 60 when it's warm out. Also, as with all engines as it ages it loses power. It only has 38HP to start with however. I got mine with 79k on it. When I got rid of it I had 200k on it and it was significantly slower. I couldn't in most cases get it up to the 110km speed limit on the highway when i got rid of it. Asides from all that, if it had a manual 5 speed, doorhandles that worked, they put some kind of webasto in it stock and it was easier to change the headlights (the headlights only went out in the winter of course). I wouldn't be that down on it. It was an interesting concept. The transmission was the worst part of it.
Glad to see you were able to get this posted. The black box of the tranny is finally gone with the TC change, just got to get the temps where they need to be. Great video!!
