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Excellent video. Thank you. This the most detailed video describing/showing the repair for F96 error. Our oven was 5 years old and we only use 2-3 a month. Apparently, all the oily fumes are sucked up by the fan and cause it to fail. I know there is a lower fan too. I wonder how long before that one fails? Maybe I should have just replaced both fans while I had the oven pulled out.
Buy steel and put a large piece of wood underneath in case they buckle your vehicle will land on the strong piece of wood. When plastic freezes, it disintegrates over time= failure.
Hello, for my Corolla 2013 I have only one fob key (with the 4 buttons) and another key with no buttons, it is just a backup in case I loose my fob key. I changed the battery (for the 1st time!) in the fob key and it looks ok because I see the little red light when I press any of the buttons BUT nothing happens with the doors. No lock, no unlock, nothing. I tried your instructions but it didn't work. I'm missing something. What is it ?.
@@jaimevalencia5548 You shouldn't have had to do anything to a working key merely for changing the battery. It almost sounds like, somehow, the new battery is weak and can't produce a signal strong enough to engage the receivers in the car. Odd as it may sound, I think I'd try a different battery. Also, what concerns me is that the process outlined here describes adding a key using an *existing* key, so I am concerned trying to reprogram it!
Thanks for making this interesting and useful information filled video. As other commenters have mentioned, I appreciate your just straightforward presentation of the facts without need to place blame, or defend against fault in an inherently expressed curiosity to just find out what the hell actually happened and what to do about it. "Fault" in the context of these circumstances, being moot. A widely sold product to the general public as these are, that allow a non-expert to do something which could very proximately cause serious injury or death, must also have built-in fail safes for likely and predictable user error. Which is good reason to buy a product like this from a corporation that has something to lose and can afford to have an attorney or two on staff. Because any one of us, following the included directions and with an intent to use them properly, could pretty easily, accidentally overdrive these ramps. I didn't overdrive my RhinoRamps MAX the first time I use them. Rather, what I've surmised is a combination of me, and my car computer's skid control caused the driver side wheel to rotate faster than the passenger side and it ended up just sucking the ramp up underneath of it and spitting it out intact behind it, with the driver side wheel ending up on the garage floor while the passenger side ended up properly positioned at the top of its ramp. The second attempt to mount the car was uneventful and successful. I remember looking at these things before I first used them, to try to gain a little bit of understanding of what I was going to be trusting to keep my skull from getting crushed. I by no means have any expertise in material engineering and design, but I did have the good fortune of a good public high school education, and the ability to stay awake in my physics classes and the first impression these things made to me was of course the non-solidness of them. Intuitively your caveman brain would question its non-solidness in its ability to withstand bearing the necessary weight. But the more developed parts of our brains all know with the miracle of science, advanced materials (e.g. plastics that are stronger than steel) and engineering, that can be overcome. And in discussing the design of the ramp with others it was almost equally instantly plausible to all participants that the wide and deeply cut gaps in the ramp aren't the weakness our caveman brains were nagging us about, but a deliberate attempt to modularize the ramp; the modularization implemented to isolate and separate any localized structural failure while redundant/excess strength in the rest could still prevent a catastrophic failure (i.e. collapse). In this case, I went with my intellect and education (and the fact that these things have been around for a while and if unsafe they would have been shut down either by government regulators or attorneys with injured clients, and pretty widely reported on). Thanks anyways, caveman brain. I always appreciate your watching out for me. Here's a giant turkey leg for you to brandish and chomp on; try not to get too much grease on your freshly river-washed fur. In my case, I think that's exactly what happened, as only after I finished my oil change, did I noticed in that driver's side ramp, a crack that had developed in the side of the ramp, separating the quadrant it was in, at its base, from the central piece the other three quadrants surround. In a moment of geekness I then used my laser level to see if it had allowed any lack of lift on that side, and both sides were still perfectly equal. I shook that car I jiggled that car and I pushed it back and forth with as much of my 200 lb of muscle as I could and I couldn't get those ramps to budge or give at all. I even drove it back down off the ramps then back up on them and did it all again with the same results. I'd have had a car on my foot within the first 5 seconds, trying that with jack stands. Obviously, you couldn't do the same thing in your case as you had a full separation on your ramp, and even in my case I would never use that ramp again to actually work under my car - but really I would call what you and I both experienced an engineered failure. A catastrophic one would be where we would be making our youtube video and comment thereof, respectively, from the hospital. Still, a product such as this should not only be designed to safely accommodate common and predictable non-expert user failures, it should be able to do so in more than a single or a few use basis. When I called the manufacturer and told them what had happened, after emailing a photo and a copy of my receipt they were totally hassle-free in just quickly sending me out a new pair, with no attempt of denial or accusation of user error. Thus that objective was accomplished as well. I've used them dozens of times since allowing me to do work that's saved me hundreds of dollars, without the hassle of a jack and jack stands and (IMO) more safely. There's good reason to be skeptical of anything, the failure of which, could cost you your life. That includes rhino ramps. Skepticism is a process starting from a point of neither confidence nor condemnation that only ends when one or the other is reached. The proper process of skepticism is unprejudiced, logical consideration of all the relevant facts. People who fear rhino ramps because they're made out of plastic, or that criticize their design based on youtube anecdotes of unit failure, are missing out due to their lack of skepticism.
I guess the reason you only get 1 1/2 quarts is just because you drove the car to the position then start to drain the fluid shortly. The Car Care Nut did park the car on the jack stand over night, then started draining it without running the engine (trans), so he got most of the fluid out of it.
@@QingyuLin The car was parked on a flat surface in the garage, so it's elevation would have no impact on the amount recovered. I honestly think mine was just underfilled.
@@DIYDaveOK Sorry, I didn't make the point clearly. The key is "park overnight", when the car was driven, the oil pump sucked the fluid into the torque converter, gears and friction bands/plates to lubricate then. When you park the car, it needs time for the fluid to flow down to the oil pan, then can be drained out of the hole. The longer you park the more fluid can be drained. Even moving the car a little distance, the fluid will be sucked back into the gear again.
You might have a different opinion if you were driving in the car, or perhaps had been *under* when the ramp split in two... to me, that's "catastrophic." Thanks for watching!
@@StaksMobx51O If you hear a clunking noise after changing pads and rotors, I would *immediately* check to ensure your caliper and pad mount bolts are secure and have not snapped off.
Will this device work if your current key won't start the car? My immobilizer has come on since swapping to a new battery and I can't start the car now.
@@BrianUpward Hmmm... changing the car battery shouldn't affect the immobilizer at all. Only thing I can suspect is that in the process of connecting the new battery a stray voltage spike may have hit the electronics?? Total guess, of course. Do the car's interior lights come on? In normal circumstances, the AP200 requires a working key to allow adding an additional one. But what your describing sounds like something has altered the state of the immobilizer if a previously working key now doesn't work. I wish I had more specific advice for you. Nothing else changed in the car other than the battery?
@@DIYDaveOK I definitely gave a brief explanation. I change the battery in my key fob, not sure if it's related but after that I couldnt start the car. Would crank but no start, starter motor recently replaced. I put in new spark plugs and a new battery. Everything turns on fine inside but it won't start. I finally noticed this green key light flashing and now I'm guessing this is the immobilizer preventing it. It needed a new battery anyways. It's an 06 crv.
@@BrianUpward Honda CRV's have a history of sometimes having their immobilizer go wonky after things like a battery change. The battery itself may be weak, stale, or installed backwards, allowing the key to fit the ignition but fail to talk to the immobilizer. I do not have a Honda so I have no first-hand experience, but I have seen and read anecdotal evidence that it is possible to reset the immobilizer.
Hi Dave. You did an awesome job showing where to position the floor jack, but you didn't give any information on the placement of the jack stands on the front of the car. Can you tell me where the jack stands need to be positioned on the front of the car?
Thanks for the quick reply. The placement of the jack stands for the rear of the car is shown @ 19:51. I wanted to know about the placement of the jackstands for the front of the car.
I gotta tell you Dave, this is one of the best videos I've seen so far. You really make this so easy to understand. There are so many RU-vidrs out there that have videos about this topic but they are just not accessible to someone learning this stuff for the first time. I'm glad I ran across your channel!
Surely they should make provisions for people over driving the ramps and then getting underneath the car, seems from the comments this is not a one off and someone eventually will be driving their car onto a damaged ramp. They are not fit for purpose, the purpose of being idiot proof to some extent. ( not that we are idiots but they need to allow for mistakes) and make these things super strong
@@mohdibrahim1350 Yes, it did. After I found that out, I did some checking and found that the difference was not that critical. I did one additional spill-n-fill with WS and the transmission ran fine for as long as we had that van.
@@disownedpuppy1136 It's VERY hard to figure out which is broken. I'm getting ready to edit a video where I replace two other mounts (on passenger and driver side) on this same car.
I've got that video broken down into a three part series, two parts edited and rendered and hope to get the last part edited tonight. Will publish part one later this week.
@@TjC_3124 Ugh, that sounds like the internal mechanism may be bound up. The only thing I would suggest is trying to extend the blind down 100% (full length), THEN try to retract it. That *might* free up whatever has it bound.
@@DIYDaveOK you were correct. Unfortunately the string is frayed and stuck/wrapped around the mechanism. Needless to say, there's no way to fix it. For a temporary fix, I removed the bottom rail and put the shade back up and using 4 binder clips to raise it during the daytime which is working. Of course this shade is 70" wide and the main one in my living room which won't be cheap to replace lol
This is a very bad design. It almost looks like it is designed to break if you hit the stop. I can see lawsuits coming and the company needs to recall all of them before anyone gets hurt. Thanks for showing us. I would never buy those.
Hey Dave, I just finished this job on my wife's 2010 Sienna. I've done "fill and spills" before, but your video helped me with a few details. Thank you for taking the time to make this, and for your fastidious attention to detail. I know you sold your van but for the benefit of other readers, I will add a few more notes: 1. I drained 4.15 qt, and confirmed that I needed exactly this much to restore the proper level. When you buy new ATF, buy 5 quarts, not 4. 2. I did not need to raise the vehicle to access the drain bolt. I live in a windy area. As long as you can get access, minimum lift is better to avoid fluid splatter. 3. I use an 18-qt container with a hollow lip, Capri brand, Model # 21023. It's fantastic for minimizing splashes, and it pours without spilling. HIGHLY recommended! 4. I also use a marked milk jug as a measuring container. When you pour the old ATF in, put some 4x4's or bricks around the base of the jug to keep it from tipping. Thanks again for your time. Good wrenching to all!
With rubber bushings, I would put the weight of the car back on that tire before tightening those bolts. Those bushings can only torsionally deflect so far before being damaged. With poly bushings, since they can rotate on the inner steel sleeve, it doesn't matter, but rubber can't. It's stuck to the inner and outer sleeve.
Thank you Dave, really appreciate your thoroughness on this repair. Watching you and your son working together brought back fond memories I had with my dad.
@@RobS282 Area of driveway where I used them was flat as always. Think the cause will remain a mystery. Didn't replace them, bought steel ramps and got a QuickJack.
Just finished doing this on my 07 es350 with 200K miles. Previous owner had done a full flush at 146K at a local shop so I know it was not filled with Toyota WS. I decided to use 3 quarts of Valvoline maxlife ATF. Mine seemed to be 1/2 quart overfilled last time. Your funnel idea worked perfect! The drain plug really fought me on this one though. I'm up in the Northeast and it's been 8 years since that was off so it was rusty or the last guy way overtightened it. Used PB blaster to free up some of the rust and had to walk away from it a few times after bending allen wrenches but after a couple hours it was off. I was not expecting much improvement but i was pleasantly surprised. I notice the biggest difference on mine up at highway speeds. It feels like more power is getting to the wheels and I have a 1 MPG improvement over the last 200 miles. Very happy it's done and now I know how to do it on future es350s! Love these cars and carcarenut. Thanks again for the help Dave!
I was able to successfully reprogram the alarm . However I’m not able to start the car with the new key … it tries to start but the engine won’t turn . Anyone having this issue ?
@@DIYDaveOK The original key starts the car but the new doesn’t. Both alarms (fob) allows me to unlock and lock the car. I wonder if the duplicate key is bad. The duplicate key allows me to manually open the door but not start the car.
@@DIYDaveOK I found this other RU-vid video. In addition to reprogramming the Fob (alarm portion) I also have reprogram the key. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CkPJ2kEfj80.htmlsi=Co51JvOCrICKqclq
Any flashing check engine light is sign of a chronic, ongoing misfire. I'd put a code reader on it and try to figure out which cylinder and go from there.
@@DIYDaveOK so I changed the spark plugs and wires , it’s the 3rd cylinder and I don’t know what to do next. Someone said check for a vaccine leak or compression test , iek I’m gonna change the coil pack . It’s my only vehicle , I can’t afford a mechanic I’m trying to learn all this on my own and it’s killing me
@@DIYDaveOK there’s a steep hill and my truck could barely get up it . when it’s idiling it’s pretty rough , it definitely dosnt drive like it used to but it’s not that bad , very slow and can’t really accelerate fast . But not being able to make it up the hill like I pushed the gas and it wouldn’t go any faster , that scared ne
Uh oh if you're losing power and have a flashing check light that makes me concerned you have a plugged catalytic converter. If you have a code reader I would look for P0420 codes.
Usually when somone spends this much time talking at the start i skip through but man youve got the same brain as me im glad somone else went this deep into an old minivans transmission life span LOL
I started this today on my '15 RX350. I stripped the oil filler tube and have ordered another one. Would you say hand tight is enough? I've done this on my '16 RX350 and the oil filler is much easier on that model.
