Thanks for the video, I seen a similar test between these two knots and it ended up 50/50, the sc knot is plenty strong enough and easier to tie for me.
The older saltigas are workhorses. Bullet proof and indestructible. As long they’re serviced. Like all reels Own the following pre mag seal saltigas 2 3500 blasts 1 45 maverick 1 6000 gt 1 6500 expedition 2 dogfights I’m trying to stop. Buying
Hi Capt Salty, love watching your videos. We have the F300(XSB) so very helpful when it comes to servicing. What are your thoughts on the VST filter after 500 hours? I read that if you use non ethanol gas and run your boat regularly you probably don’t need to change the filters which seems like a complicated job. Let me know what your thoughts are. Thank you.
Does not matter if the saltiga cast shorter...the fish can see that lure meter away!! SALTIGA FOR MY PICK BOYS!! Heavy drag Fight on that Bad Asss Saltiga
Question for the seasoned... 2014 F250, bought 2nd hand 6 years ago. Always had it professionally serviced. I'll be performing the maintenance from now on, so this is new territory for me. Do all the 4-strokes have an oil drain on the side? Or is that something on newer models? Have only ever seen that a pump is required.
Yes all outboards to my knowledge have a drain plug. However I believe Yamaha recommends that you use an oil sucker from the dip’stick which is likely how the motor has been professionally serviced in the past. It’s faster, less messy, and probably is able to get old oil from out of passages that wouldn’t drain from gravity. A decent oil sucker for this isn’t the cheapest thing so if you’re a DIYer then I’d probably just drain it.
@JohnSmith-cw3tp Ended up draining it. Had a lot to accomplish... fiberglass repairs, paint, canvas, electrical, etc. Drain seemed to work OK, but hadn't considered oil trapped in lines. May opt for a sucker's for next season. And for what it's worth... seems that "professional service" was a scam. Oil, and gear lube both black-black. Engine had maybe 5 hours of use last season.
Thanks for the vid. Manual just says "dealer should do this" but as a totally unexperienced mechanic with an office job, I've been able to do every routine maintenance instruction myself and I want to complete the 500h mark myself as well. Saves a lot of money _and_ makes me appreciate the Yamaha brand even more for making their products so easy to maintain. I'm absolutely confident I'll get this 500h done as well.
I dont know how anyone can say they look alike??? Thats like saying a Camaro looks just like a charger they are roughly the same size but every part on them is different?? I have several of each on the boat and they are both great slight edge for me is the Diawa
I hope people read my post first you disconnect the wires come from the bottom of the filter housing Iys a blue clip and easy to disconnect and this is on all newer 150 and up then u screw and if the fikter comes out like in this vid you have an issue you need to push that filter up into the neck of the top of the filter housing if you do like this guy did you are not getting any filtration the filter has to be pushed up onto the neck the filter will be suspended by itself then screw the filter cup into position and then connect the blue connector again also there is another small inline filter that can be changed also in the fuel line after this filter and before the vst tank, man I hate that fools post vids like this and people see them and run the risk of damaging there 20k plus motors this vid should be taken down
Thanks for doing this test. It’s entirely consistent with my own results. It shows that both knots, if properly tied, are reliable. I’ve been using the FG for nearly 25 years so won’t be changing but credit to whoever created the SC. It’s very creative.
