Tutorials and help Co2 Laser Cutting and Etching All Things CO2 laser lightburn i have Thunder Nova 35/80watt Car and Bike photography cyclorama studio where i also make videos, Just added a 3D Printer FLSun V400 + Tinkercad Tutorials for 3d printing software and 3d printed Objects with Timelapses and much more please follow me along the Journey and pick up some Tips and Tricks on the way, thank you for checking out my channel.
Any possible way to make it have 2 functions? Like the code you have and also one to light up all yellow for 2 seconds at the same time and then green? (Full Tree and Pro Tree)
Parabens pelo video explicativo muito bom. tenho uma duvida no meu Gcode inicial nao tem a linha do bed mesh. eu tenho que adicionar. o meu esta assim.G28 G1 F3000 Z1 G1 X-150 Y0 Z0.4 G92 E0 G3 X0 Y-130 I150 Z0.3 E30 F2000 G92 E0
Hi awesome looking product how well does that carbon filter work when fully closed sealed operating in flower am see reviews of being not as effective as traditional filter and fan.as still being able to smell flowers inside when closed up.
@carphotography we need your help please! Min 3:49 it appears this for us: Loaded gcode offsets from saved variables [{'y': None, 'x': None, 'z': -2.4299999999999997}] What can we do? Thank you so much!
@@carphotography i have seen that one with hinge, but i want to make round with more parts .like mabe 10 parts of wood and 1 part to be like 30 mm. i can send you a photo on email if you give me your email.
This was a really good video, I knew some of it, but the probe and just how to get the right Z-Offset was explained really well - I also didn't know about the LOAD_BEDMESH in Cura and I have added it. Hopefully it will improve the V400, because it has been a bit crap.... if I am honest.
Hi, your videos are great, congratulations. I'm from Brazil, I bought an 80w CO2 machine I use the lightburn program. But I can't make a photo as beautiful as you in acrylic and wood. I'm having difficulty configuring the laser height, force and speed... Everything 😂 Do you have any step-by-step instructions on how I can make these settings to have excellent quality? Thanks..
Ok, I'll try to do the ramp test. Your photo processing in Photoshop is fantastic. A question? After finding the point in the test, will it be used for any material recorded on the machine? Do you think you could take a photo on metal with co2? Do you have a tip on speed x power x engraving precision to start with on these pieces: Glass and acrylic? The borax tip is also very valuable, I'm going to test it too. Thank you very much, your work is very beautiful... Congratulations
@@pedrinho01videos CO2 on metal you need a marking spray, for metal i use a 400 speed 40 power with the marking spray, , my tip would be try low poweri like about a 350 speed and 14 power for acrylic, my tip would be start slower with lower power and work you way upto where you like it, you can always run the job again to make it darker , but if you go to higher power and burn it then there is no going back (Y) start low and for photos 350 - 400 speed. and for the image mode make sure if you dither outside of lightburn that you use PASSTHROUGH for image mode.
Very cool! I just got the Mecpow X3 Pro and am still very new to laser engraving. What settings would anyone recommend for my 10 watt laser on 3mm plywood?
Thanks i didnt etch it , i would use the 2" , the Hi res runs so close to the material and has a wide nozzle and burned out on me before then i was etching some tile. as always thanks for watching (Y)
Do you power from the USB plugged into the D1 mini? Or do you use another power supply and connect the grounds together? Can you power the 8x32 through the D1 mini ir does the matrix draw too much current?
Hi i sell them on ebay if you are in the USA , thanks www.ebay.com/itm/125224975484?itmmeta=01J3NN77WBTXB11TW1EHAJ74QS&hash=item1d27fd7c7c:g:ErYAAOSwk75iP1In&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8AyFctn5hZwrdzh18B0Cxe4UCtmB7eKsrNGZ%2Bjv6mKn0Rwh3%2FQ2V6OsHgvPdYySocjEN7ZqO%2FCeOW6%2B1dPcPZT5VF%2FEHDmsc6GUfDy%2Ft32%2B0JL8vdk%2FEIob1Xdf%2FFbQnZpPbWjEcNwD0nZ%2BbCBRZiXlpR4%2BIatGBe80SieHrUityxLlHAfPN2b0EJ31HDSsqdspcpX3VDdkhYCycbp61HekCRXk%2BIgXme62%2BQ0SaR4oSTohUK%2BHv8MHsvrZGh207TVAqja3UcaBZiYOVs%2BpDVVWHem%2FvdxeKOuzWy%2B0ggBtp7KYZawBFS%2FZ2mm8dYz%2Fh9g%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7L-nLWdZA
The closeups were very informative. Towards the higher DPI's, you caught some of the grids line start/stop edges which it was easier to see the line interval. I just did finish a similar test with my Commarker B4/30 fiber. For my particular setup, engraving works very well using 3mm black acrylic.... 2500mm/sec - 60%pwr - 60khz - 1000DPI - crosshatch-NOT bidirectional - one pass.... To cut the black acrylic to shape, my Longer B1/30 watt slices best at 90%pwr, 400mm/min, one pass, air assist ON.... The first testing that should be "mandatory" is a "Material Test" in Lightburn.... Especially where the speed/power settings will provide a "lightness" variance that occurs when engraving black acrylic....
I had to delete the old default file before calibration, because it could not overwrite the original and would say 7x7 in the bed mesh section of the interface otherwise? Very insightful and helpful video, stuck without it :)
