I have a question about your winches. I have a MacGregor 22 with the same winches, but I can't find handle to fit. Can you give me any help? Nice video by the way.
If you’re referring to the two sheet winches mounted on the gunwales I haven’t had the need to look for one. If you’re referring to the swing keel winch it’s a friction winch made by Fulton and the handle is available on Amazon. Hope this helps.
@@JohnVH-diy I'm now trying to drill a 15/16" hole, in a 1/16"x1 1/2" flat aluminum bar from HD, to fabricate one. I'll add a handle. I doubt you can find one.
Thanks @JohnVH-diy! I just bought a Capri 18 and the previous owner said we should use 3 people to raise the mast. This seems much easier! Can you tell me how far up the mast did you rivet the eye strap? Is it the same for the eye bolts on the 2x4?
I just got a bigger boat and I’m designing a double A frame system that will remain attached to the mast and deck that will automatically move the mast from horizontal stowed position to the vertical. Stay tuned and subscribe.
The rope and pulley system is the boom vang I already have on the boat. It is important that the pulley system has a built in cleat to hold the line tight.
I dont have a boom vang and it would be nice to see how you rigged the lines through the block and tackle and attached it all to the bow and forstay..that was not explained
So what kind of sailboat do you have? If you don’t have a boom vang you should get one. If not any pulley system from the hardware store will do in a pinch but it won’t have a cleat to keep the line tight so you’ll have to wrap it around a dock cleat to hold it.
I use the main sheet fiddle block/cam cleat setup for stepping on my Hunter 23 wing keel. Usually have 2 people when I'm stepping/unstepping so one person hoists while the other controls center and deals with shrouds and stays.
You did a nice job with explanation. I had some concern about using my boom but no problem. Trying this on a Cape Dory Typhoon for the first time. I may try partial lift with 2x4 to get a good feel. Thanks
No, after removing the tbi big block I found it had a bad wiring harness which was causing all kinds of shorts sending mixed signals to the ecm. By that time I already had the other motor so I continued with the swap. Watch the rest of the videos to see the outcome. There’s more updates to come. I now have a 80s engine and trans in a 90s truck.
This was not a how to do it video. This was to show what can be done to make a heavy duty trailer axle. If you need detailed steps on how to cut and weld steel then you shouldn’t do this yourself.
I had a Siren17, and still have a San Juan 21, and a Starwind 22. For mast raising on them I just loosened the side and aft stays about a half inch, and just lift the mast up by hand. They are not heavy.
Yours are apparently lighter than mine. I can also get mine up by hand but if a stay gets snagged on something and you’re alone you have to let it back down. With my system there’s no stress and it’s easier.
Sorry it’s not a good video but if you subscribe you’ll see a better view and be able to check out my other videos. I do construction, work on semi trucks and boats.
The newer ones here now have block foundations and stem walls. They call them permanent because there are metal straps nailed to the house and imbedded in the block with concrete. They still have wood wedges taking up the gap between the block and the house frame which are adjustable in case the block settles. The settling occurs because the footings are not deep or wide enough. However it’s better that the old tie down straps and plastic skirting.
This is the proper way to fill the transmission fluid on a 2002 Isuzu Trooper. Car needs to be on so clutches, lines, trans cooling side on the radiator fills up and lastly the converter. Then is ready to be checked by removing the top Fill plug/Blot, an if the car is running an no trans fluid is dripping once Plug has been removed then add until it does. Thats what i picked up from the video. Very informative thanks. Hope it’s still runs smoothly.
You are correct. Because it’s so difficult to check the level by the average non mechanic person the fluid ran low and eventually destroyed the transmission. Stupid design.
The straps are a bit of a pain since they tighten or loosen depending if you’re doing up or down. To remedy that the lower end of the straps should be directly in line with the mast hinge bolt. I’m going to make another one. It’ll be a A frame made out of 1” conduit that I can leave attached to the boat while under way. This would be handy if you need to lower the mast to go under a bridge.
@@JohnVH-diy Thanks John. That was one of the takeaways I got from your video. I have stanchions (P18) about even with the mast. I may be able to rig some stays for the gin pole and mast that don't need to be adjusted. The mast is light enough to raise by hand, but like you said, it is desirable to be able pause and be sure nothing is tangled etc. Thanks again.