This happened to me this morning on my way to work. The C and H completely disappeared and then came back on but then started to overheat. Will look into replacing the cluster..
Does the engine light come on if the fuel regulator/damper is bad or going bad? Cause my infiniti qx60 does this exact noise but no engine light or Codes given
2009 Camry got codes poo31 and poo51. It says I need Low Bank 1 sensor 1 and Low Bank 2 sensor 1. So after some research heres what I found. Check how many o2 sensors your vehicles actually has. There's two UPSTREAM an two DOWNSTREAM. Toyota recommends you replace both at the same time. Now when I had the computer at the auto parts store run it said Heater Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 sensor 1 (poo31) and Heater Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 sensor 2. LOW BANK means UPSTREAM. The guy at the auto parts store said if its downstream it will just say something like BANK SENSOR or something like that. Anyway, so of course I started checking online for parts lol they werent priced bad at all. Then I start reading reviews and people are like "Don't buy this junk" etc etc. Apparently, you only want to buy genuine Toyota sensors. DENSO makes Toyota sensors. DENSO is what i can buy at my local parts store. The guy at the store started laughing because i ran over to return one I had already bought and hes like "Look it up Toyota owns Denso" lol its the truth lol anyway, I bought the two sensors but my mechanic keeps saying try the relay so i guess we will. I know my check engine light is on and my car is getting hot too quick. Its not going over half but its faster than it should. I let yall know what happens hope this helps anyone looking for info
Thank you, Found AF Fuse Missing! 10A Fuse was slotted into the Blank Spare slot and the AF Slot open. Masive waste of my time. Now solved thanks to your video.
Very helpful video, wasn't what I was looking for but showed me what was involved with accessing the rear of the engine for fuel injector replacements, none others so far have.
You would have to make sure the temperature being displayed is not correct. For example, your temperature shows all the way high, but your scanner is showing normal operation temperature. If your displayed temperature is high and the temperature displayed by the scanner is the same, do not dive it. You will overhead your engine.
Did you car start intermittently before the repair? My honda starts 95% of the time but maybe once a week ill have to sit there and turn the key over over and if i turn it slow i do hear the buzzing relay noise. It eventually starts though. Changed the starter already. Only reason i think it may not be the problem is when it doesnt start the remote starter wont work either. You would think if it was ignition switch related the remote start would aleast work right or no? 🤔
Let me know if you discover your problem. I think I have the same issue. My 2007 civic has intermittent no crank. I get the relay noise like the video. I have replaced the switch, relay and starter but still get the no crank intermittently. Thinking there might be a ground or connector issue somewhere…. Frustrating
@mmann2042 yep same here.. Im thinking the new starter is faulty, or it's the switch.. like I said it starts 95% of the time but it's gunna be that one time I'm 2 hours away from home when it doesn't start at all again 😆. Before I replaced the starter, it wouldn't start at all but after that I noticed the loose ground. I wonder if my original starter was good the whole time smh. Pain in the ass to get that starter out. I guess I can try the new switch and just return it with in 30 days if it doesn't solve the problem. Atleast that's an easy install. 🤷♂️
Mine acted the same after a new starter, relay, ground strap and key switch. So unless one of those parts were bad (which is possible) it’s something else. Trying to figure out what would cause the relay noise (chatter). Guessing low voltage. Problem is I can’t duplicate the fault when I’m measuring voltages. Was thinking of installing a push button start to eliminate the key switch@@Tone223
Where are you located? I just had the similar problem..and just does the same when I try to start it ,please let m know what you said the problem was so I can find a mechanic..to help me..here where I live.single mom..with kids..
seems there are 2 gas rails? each with a few dampers? you replaced 2 dampers? i thought 1 rail had 2, and another rail had 1, and the PCV model number is for pathfinder 2002-2004 ONLY, i thought your truck was a 2015
That’s my video. My truck. You used. I haven’t fixed it yet. Watching your video now. :-). Are you a mechanic. ??? I’m not brave enough to attempt this.
My Acura TL is doing that sound, comming from the fuse box below the dash near the dead pedal, but I have no issue with the starter switch, car stars number 1 , could it only be the relay ?
thanks very much for this ill try it. so just curious did you get an error on your old cluster where it said 888. Also since the temp gauge is dysfunctional how did you determine the car was not actually overheating when the cluster showed full bars was it because the fan did not come on? Just so I can also run the test at home thanks
