with enough furl and the right air ration, shouldn't be a problem. You will need a very high temp refactory though.

@glumpy10 Thank you very much for the fast reply! Could you help me out a bit more, I'm contemplating the burner design, if I should make it like the classical waste oil burners with a combustion chamber out of an old fire extinguisher or something like that and a tube at the end that leads the flames to the furnace or could I just use a a steel pipe(35mm ID) with my oil drip tube(made of steel also) coming into the main pipe at about 10cm before the end that goes into the furnace(the other end connected to the blower)dripping oil there so it pools and vaporizes when it comes in contact with the hot end of the pipe, so I'm not shooting cold liquid oil directly into the furnace ?

@@nickulvatten1039 You can do it either way. Straight in is more efficent and probably slightly hotter. Then again, you make the burner big enough and it probably don't matter. Make the outlet large though so you don't get back pressure for the blower as the air will expand a lot when heated and you don't want high pressure thrust coming out potentialy blowing the metal round. Slower speed air gives it more time to transfer the themal energy into the work piece you are trying to heat up. If you want to do a pipe straingt in which is fine, I would pre heat the furnace area with gas directed into the burner tube just like the oil. Once you have the furnace hot, above about 250C, you can then put the oil in. You will get a little burning as it leaves the pipe but it will mainly vaporise when it hits the hot furnace walls. Make sure you are not blowing direct on the cruicible unless using an outside burner or you will be hitting it with cold air not the flame you want. I would DEFINATELY either have the oil pumped in or pressurise your tank with a couple of PSI. that is all you need, just a very small positive pressure. Believe it or not it's MORE easy to control the flame with the oil pressurised than it is with drip. Also as the oil level depletes or warms up, pumped or pressurised the flow and heat output stays the same and you don't have to adjust it all the time. You can use a pulse pump on a timer. maybe half second on every 2-3 seconds or whatever. If the oil inlet is back near the blower inlet, the oil flow into the furnace will have smoothed out a lot. You may get a little pulsing but not much. At higher flow rates it all but dissappears. From what I have done, I think if you have enough fire which is easy and cheap with an oil burner, you have have it so the flame itself is the refractory or insulation. If the whole Cruicible is totally engulfed with flame rather than like a gas burner just coming from the side, then the flame itself is the refractory keeping the heat in. Normally they say don't have too much flame coming out the top because once it's past the cruicible it's going to waste, that's not all together true if it is keeping any cold air out and there is nothing but flame surroundling the cruicible. I was melting steel pretty easy just brute forcing it like this but also, turn your air down enough so there is flame coming out the top and the flame is right to just before or smoking. The things will run with excess air very well but extra air beyond what's needed for combustion actually cools the flame so don't be concerned it you have a little smoke in this case. It's better rich than lean if you are chasing heat. You will also want to have plenty of oil because if you get up to say 5O KW, you'll be going through it. Will depend on the size of the furnace you make. As I did a vid, even dirt ( Hole in the ground Vid) and the brick furnace got WAAAY hot. I also had no problem melting copper and then steel in open air just blasting it with heat. That's how I figured if you have enough flame, it becomes the refractory itself. If you are putting the flame on the metal you are melting itself, watch you don't create too much thrust which will blow the molten metal around like water. Not good. I am no safety sissy but watch melting iron because it is really touch to overheat and it explodes in showers of sparks. Id wear a crash helmet myself and put a damp towel around my neck so there is no expose skin especialy in that area. Some vids I have seen look pretty dam scary pouring moltern iron. Use a large tube for the air and the oil so as the volume is large but the air speed/ thrust is low as possible. Do a vid and let me know when it's up!

@glumpy10 Thank you so much for the in-depth advice, it's priceless in this situation coming from an expert like yourself! My furnace is tiny it's 17.5 cm in diameter and 25cm tall made of 5 white hard firebricks stood vertically in a pentagon pattern. I'm melting only 200 grams of iron in a small crucible and the crucible has a lid on top of it, I don't move the molten steel anywhere, the only thing I need to achieve is to get it fully molten inside the crucible and then let it cool down very slowly inside the furnace in order to form dendritic crystals which result in the beautiful pattern of Wootz or crucible steel. I am aware that a pump or an atomizing system will be way better but I'm on a tight budget also I have free time only until the end of this week to do it pretty much, so I will have to do with a drip-feed. It's crazy how much conflicting advice there is out there on this subject, some people say lean is hotter some say rich is hotter, one guy melting crucible steel uses a shop-vac and wasted oil and swears you need a minimum of 40 liters per second of air consumption to make it work or better yet 60-65, however I'll run it rich as you and another very knowledgeable person told me richer is hotter, also I've had a semi-sucess with a different burner design where the oil was dripping inside the end of the burner also running it very rich tbh it was way too much oil leaking outside of the furnace on the floor but I had a more powerful blower then and also the oil was very thin from an electrical heating radiator, it got nasty hot above 1500+ but my crucible cracked and I also ran out of oil. Your big brick furnace indeed got stupid hot I was watching the video today and was thinking you are losing so much heat from the open top, if you'd had that closed it probably would have turned the whole furnace into a molten puddle as those flames were definitely 1500+. I don't think I'll need many KW's for my small setup but I could be wrong as to reach a higher temeperature you need more fuel and air without a doubt. Another problem I had with a previous burner design that had the oil tube at the end of the burner hanging mid-way in the main pipe and the air was grabbing the oil throwing it at the furnace walls but I was taking a lot of oil to make it work as a weaker flow was making the flame sputter and blow out as there was too large of a interval between the oil drops arriving from the tube and igniting, so I'm thinking of backing up the oil tube in the new burner as I mentioned about 10cm back from the end and letting the oil actually drip inside the main pipe and slowly make its way down the hot pipe hopefully vaporizing, what do you think about this and generally is it better to have the oil pipe closer or farther away from the burner tip? I will definitely let you know how it goes, I can't promise I'll upload it on RU-vid but I'll definitely send you photos and videos if you give me another social media contact info.

@@nickulvatten1039 Smaller is harder with Oil but not that it can't be done. As for the Rich/ lean.... The thing is if you add more air than it take to burn all the fuel, and remember you only are using 12% I think it is which is the oxygen, any additional air once al the fuel is burned is doing nothing only cooling the the whole process. The cold air that is not fueling the fire is simply taking away thermal energy and exhausting it out the furnace. You only want enough air ideally to burn all the fuel and that's it. If you have a little less, the excess oil will pull a lot less heat than the air will that's for sure. That's a mistake I see a lot of people make. They think by pre heating the oil it will burn better or hotter or whatever. If In fact they pre heated the air which has a LOT more thermal capacity, they would do a Lot better. As for the oil Injection point, I like it further away from the furnace. Makes the oil flow more steady and if the ait tube is deeper in the furnace, you get flame coming out straight away therefore avoiding cool spots. Good luck with it!

Sometimes! :0)

​@@glumpy10 Can you do a full video from start to finish building a furnace? I'm interested in making one at home, and it seems like the only thing I'm missing is how to deliver the oil to the furnace on a budget

And where did it say " learn how to melt steel" Although if you couldn't work it out from the vid you were never going to figure it out anyway.

You can easily melt cast iron, steel and other stainless steel. same way just you need car engine burn mobile inject with electric fan. Yeah it is real because long time ago i seen it RU-vid some local Pakistani factory do that.

None. You can run it all day and the only thing that will be left is some fine powdery ash. Maybe. They self clean and NEVER clog upp which is why I like this design.

@@glumpy10 thanks man for your reply, I hunted all your videos searching to find how you cleaned out the ash and found nothing ----- and this is why... cheers

Mate I been trying and written down 25 Vids to do but life has not been kind and motivation to do things has been my biggest hurdle. One day I'll do more, hopefully soon but these days I do a lot with solar and batteries as my interest so I intend to do more with that.