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The plastic drag star doesn't make a difference in performance, it does reduce weight. In higher end reels they usually make them lighter. Probably why it's plastic.
Here is an edit for you guys asking about "The line that is marked/engraved on the spool" Yea it's all personal preference but that mark on the spool is a good reference point to spool up just past that line if you are targeting something for maximum accuracy. Especially using light crank baits. I primarily crank with this reel and it's hits on a dime. It's great because you don't need to use much line to flip/ skip a jig or crank specific targets. Especially for respooling before events, it's no big deal to respool. Cost is minimal. Depending on your technique you can absolutely put as much line on the reel as you want. The sv system works to its maximum performance if you dont over spool too much.
Correct me if im wrong but you didn't mention it's higher voltage output than the rest. Livescopes works better with them as they can handle upwards 18v. This battery is probably the best battery you can get but damn expensive.
I know it’s an older video, but I have the cornfield livesweep on my ultrex. Can you have that and the 360 both mounted to the trolling motor without any issue? If so, could 360 be on the port side and livesweep on the opposite? And which one should be higher/lower in the water?
Do you like the Talons? There is a local guy selling the 12 ft models for a very good price and I am temped to buy them. Especially since my 99 Triton TR21 doesnt have much room in the back for pumps. I am also thinking about upgrading to lithium TM batteries. I have an 80lb Fortrex and with group 31s 210 reserve capacity I run them down to about 30 percent every time I fish. I may buy 2 100s but I really wish I could get away with 2 50s. The max amp draw of the fortrex is 56 so buying a 50aH probably isn't smart
Adjusted the zero adjuster after few casts 😁it was very loose from the factory..it still handles 15LB (0,13mm) braid excellent, being loose or tight. Love how stiff the zero adjuster is; less chance for spool tension to become lose over time causing those dreaded overruns
Hi there thanks for sharing your experience. Like many here I am considering the switch, in my case I run a 24v trolling motor, my days out are less than 8 hours but I do fish some heavy current. After my research I think IONIC is a fair bet, the last thing I am considering is if 2x 50 amps or if I will repent and wish I have more juice and should just go 2x 100amp overkill? Thanks again for sharing!
How heavy of a fish do you think the 5000 vanford could handle before it starts to flex. I have a FL 3000 and want a vanford 5000 for when i go out on the charter boats.
Now that it's been a couple yrs since this vid was dropped, are you still using this battery and has it lived up to your expectations? I'm looking at one for my 93sv and gls10.
Has anyone had issues with salt water and corrosion with these. I snapped the bottom 2” off my skeg in the driveway pushing it up into the shed! I feel like painting it in duralac before pushing on could help.
I have Tatula , Curado DC and SLX DC XT.. All great casting maschines once you dial them in, but both shimanos are much smoother on the retrieve. You won't go wrong with any of these, it's down to personal preference.
Man when you said “ quarter oz drill bit “ I laughed pretty hard. Not sure if you meant that to be funny but it definitely was. Great video on the installation as well !
Great video about 2/3 through my garmin install definitely a job best to do a little at a time. Hopefully I will get mine finished this weekend. The hardest part is trying to source install components when you realize you want to mount a component a certain way. The best part about doing the install yourself is you can troubleshoot it yourself if there is ever an issue
