I think that's an impressive run! I'll be happy if my Hemi runs that quick! There's still lots of options without forced induction. What cam are you running? Mopar Al on RU-vid was able to make over 500hp with a cam and some head work. There's shops that offer CNC porting. There may still be some gains with tuning work. The Hemi head was designed for massive lift and that's my end-game - a huge cam. I was able to get more front-end lift without my front sway bar. My truck either didn't come with one, or someone removed it. Makes a difference. Calvert racing and some other manufacturers make adjustable drag shocks.
@@billsmancave4949 it’s a comp cam HRT 2 for these early hemis. Engine masters ran the cam on an early hemi and apparently gained like 79hp or something like that. I have a few more things I’m going to try. I ordered some 4.10 gears and going to order a higher stall converter to install over the winter. I think the truck has another second of time to drop yet before I need to change the engine stuff. Or at least that’s my opinion. Guess we will see
@@re-geargarage Nice cam! I'll have to check out that video. I might run this cam later... It looks like that cam might benefit from a big stall, what's your truck stalling at now? I used to run a 2600 with a slightly smaller cam on my 318 and it was happy.
@@re-geargarage I totally agree, my old cam started making power at 2200 RPM and it really liked the 2600. Your truck could definitely benefit from 2800 or more.
Can you give me a quick rundown of the combo? Gear and converter stall and hp estimate. I had a 318 magnum in my 77 Volare run 12.9@105. A stock 5.7 in a dakota should be faster, your mph is about the same. I have a 87 with a 6.1 hemi. I put a 518 trans and a 4.10 gear dana 60 in it. Was going to put a 4500 stall lockup converter in but during covid they had no parts so its a stock converter. The trick to auto drag racing is gear and converter.
@@glen4407 thanks for the reply. I was hoping for some feedback and get this truck sorted out better. My truck is an 87 with an 05 truck 5.7 engine. It has a comp cam HRT stage 2 for these early hemi’s. Headers with 3’ of exhaust pipe only. Trans was rebuilt, supposed shift kit(but I don’t think they did it right) and a B&M 2200 stall I believe. I have a 9 1/4 out of a newer Dakota. With 3.55 gears. 28”x10.5x15 slicks. That’s about it for the truck. So I ordered 4.10 gears last week and now I think I’m going order a 3500 stall converter. To install over the winter. I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth going to get it tuned since the fuel table is sorted out and really just need timing figured out. This is basically only a track truck currently. Not that it couldn’t be street driven but I just haven’t. Can I ask what timing you have in your 6.1?
@re-geargarage I have my max timing at 24. I need to get it on a dyno to see what it likes. Afr is 12.8. The key to a quick pass is the 60 foot. After a high stall and gear may need a traction bar like caltracs.
@@glen4407 hmm it don’t know where to end the timing. I guess the dyno would be the only way to nail that down. I might take it for tuning yet. Before I change the gear and converter. I just have to haul it 3 hours away. To the closest major city
@re-geargarage Peak timing is at peak tq from my understanding. I copied a ls timing map I saw on a RU-vid video. Now that I have overdrive and lockup I think I heard it ping. I have not looked at my timing map in a long time, I could send it to you. I run a terminator x. I use a modified stock throttle body and a ford pwm. Idle control is not the best but it works, can raise rpm when AC turns on.
@@glen4407 I was on 28 deg of timing on my fastest run so far. I bumped to 30 to see but then only ran once. I kind of based it off the engine master timing when they ran the early hemi with this can. Actually I think it was Richard holdner on you tube that ran it. I run terminator too. I bought the BBK throttle body. Kinda regret not going to the LS throttle body. I have PWM IAC as well. Definitely finicky.
The diff is out of a 07 ish Dakota I believe. The newest version anyway. It was 5 bolt but 5x 5.5” I think. I bought new axles that were 5x4.5” from Dr. Diff. Redrilled the drums myself. But of a PIA. But I thought more access to rims etc.. also if I went 15” rims I got more access to slicks and drag radials too. How’s yours coming ?
Wow, that's amazing you figured out how to use the new axle, I'll keep that in mind if I blow up my 8.25. Thanks for sharing! Dr Diff is great, I'm actually swapping their manual brake master cylinder and universal pushrod kit on the Dakota. I had to get creative with the angled pushrod, Ill post something on that. I was thinking 20" rims for my truck, but I agree with the access to drag tires. I really like the look of those fat tires in the back.@@re-geargarage
@@billsmancave4949 when I switched mine over to manual brakes. I took the brake pedal out and drilled it higher to get the ratio correct for manual brakes. Don’t quote me but I think I drilled it about 1” lower then the pivoting point
@@re-geargarage Thanks again for sharing, I was wondering what you did. I read something about a pedal ratio being different in the Dakota but I couldn't find any solid information. I was hoping it would be straightforward like the Diplomat. I still have the pedal assembly out, I should drill an extra hole or two while it's accessible. Great idea!
Thanks for mentioning you have one though. Sometimes it helps, especially with older vehicles. There are some around up here. I’m just not sure how much I want to invest in this body. I can take all the mechanicals out and put into something else. With all that said. I might keep playing with it
@@re-geargarage I have two lol my 93 is my daily about to do a ton of work on it. Hoping to put a hemi in it someday myself. Did the math and the hemi actually pays for itself in a first gen within 100,000 miles on gas savings alone.
They are the Holley Hooker black heart swap headers. I don’t know the part number sorry. I don’t think they are making them anymore. From what I’ve seen online seems all swap headers might not be made anymore. I hope I’m wrong though. I didn’t have to do anything to get the engine in really. Because I made the mounts. If I remember correctly I ground a bit of the corner of the passenger side rear lower control arm mount to just open up the clearance a bit more. Like I said my situation is a bit different then most given I made my own mounts. Hope that helps.
Like your video! How did the 8.25 gears work out? I have a '88 Dakota that im going with a '98 5.2 (warmed over withamild cam and EQheads) to a Getrag 238 6spd, and jeep 8.25 with 307 gears. Want to swap in a Jeep lsd and keep the highway friendly gears. ..just went through a divorce of 31yrs, so i feel ya.. Please keep us posted!
The jeep LSD is sitting under the dart. Haven’t really played with it. The Dakota had a 7.25 in it with the hemi. I’m currently swapping in a 9.25 from an 08 Dakota. It’s 1” wider. But figured close enough. I bought new axles with the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. Just bolting it together soon. Lots of little things when doing that stuff. I want it ready to rip the drag races next summer. These dakotas with a V8 are pretty fun little trucks. Good luck with yours. Should post up some videos.
@re-geargarage Just found out not too long ago that the Ranger 8.8 is about 3.5" shorter. And picked one up with a 4.10 lsd cheap! So can get more room in the wheelwell, without shortening the axle. (5x4.5" too) Don't know why I can't send pictures. 😕
@@blownaway4371 ah yes the ford 8.8 is a good option. I couldn’t find one cheap locally to me. Small town problems. Is the pinion offset ? I thought there was something about needing to center it. I could be wrong. I went a different route. Where about are you located ? States Canada ?
Thanks. I’m in the middle of swapping the rear diff. But it’s quickly becoming winter here so no more quarter mile. I am also going to put some exhaust on it. So a few videos over the winter coming
I had moser engineering do one for me and the ends were quite crooked in relation to the housing tubes. They didn’t attempt to straighten it. I was quite disappointed in their quality. The axles look good though.
Your video just popped up. I built a 87 with a 6.1 a few years ago. Was a v6 auto. I had to notch the crossmember for the oil pan. I made my own headers, modified the v6 mounts. I run holley terminator x, I use the factory throttle body which I modified to take a cable. My Iac is a ford pwm that is plumbed into the intake. It works ok. I use the stock gas tank, put a fuel cell fitting in the bottom. Tank has baffles so no fuel issues when low. I use a corvette fuel filter that has a return on it and regulates the pressure. It's a 6.1 with car setup, 46rh and dana 60 with 4.10's. Have not had it at the track or dyno, fighting a driveshaft vibration and lost interest. I drove it a year with the stock 904. Even has AC. I'm just outside Toronto in Ontario.
@@glen4407 awesome. Should do a video on it. I’d like to see it. Maybe take it to the track. I’d be curious how it runs. Maybe i could get mine to go as quick as it. I think there’s more to do in mine. But just running out of time. I actually just started to swap a 9.25 diff out of a newer one in this weekend. Going to do some brake upgrades and install some exhaust for next year. And hopefully get it to hit harder next time
When I do this swap on my 93 I'm going to stick with a doctored PCM for the hemi. I want it to be a daily driver before I turn it into a project. For the throttle next time go to a bicycle or motorcycle shop and tell them the length you need and the length of pull and they can make you a cable for cheap.
I agree. With the factory PCM. If I was going to do it again I’d likely stay with the factory computer. I have it in my mind to go turbo in a year or two depending how it survives. I live in a fairly isolated place. We don’t have much here. We do have a bicycle shop here though. That’s a good point. Thanks you
@@re-geargarage Main reason I want to keep it with the factory pcm is then I have a base to start from for any future additions. I could add holley or something piggybacked. I've actually got a 93 and a 95. One I just got is a 93 v8 extended cab rwd with posi. The other ive had for a long time and it needs a lot of work is a 95 extended cab v6. Both are optioned out but the 95 had a damn cookie cutter dealership moonroof that ruined the carpets and floorpan
@@timbrwolf1121 that’s awesome. I wish you the best with them. I would definitely go factory if you just want the engine swap. Good luck Hopefully you will post them up so I can see them
I looked into their stuff. A problem with where I live is, there are no junkyards to get a computer from. In the end after tracking down everything I’d need to make their stuff work, it would be more expensive….for me and my situation. Or maybe I’ll look back into it. Do they sell a complete kit now ? Computer and everything
@@timbrwolf1121 okay I’m going to look into it again. When I last looked id have to provide your own computer and engine harness from a donor. Their power connection harness was around $800 at the time. Thanks for the input. I’m going to look into it again
Thanks, I sold the blue dart. I still have the major bodywork dart though. Haha. The blue dart was to nice to cut up and I have the other one already so I sold to someone who loves it. He spent a bunch of time on it. Good to see it getting done. I burnt myself out on the bodywork of the other one. However I’ll get to it this upcoming winter. I did work on it a bit but not enough to show any progress.
Do you have any recommendations to improve it. (Keep in mind I’m on my phone and don’t earn money from RU-vid, also not willing to spend money on equipment for that yet)
Hey I want to know if you had plenty of air circulation while you were doing all that cutting and grinding ? I am just saying because a guy like you needs to be around a while you sure helped me out a whole bunch and I want to thank you I'm watching but I'm concerned you gotta breath man .
Thanks Larry, I genuinely appreciate your concern. No at that time there wasn’t a lot of ventilation. I’m older and wiser now. Also working in a much bigger garage. Live and learn I guess. What are you working on Larry?
The car in this video is still sitting. However that question has been asked lots in the A body forums. I’ve seen it say it will fit but the wheel backspacing has to be perfect, from what I understand. The 245/60R15 I’ve heard fits better. Again the wheels play the biggest part. Sorry I couldn’t help anymore
Your Static CR can be manipulated by gasket crush thickness. It would have been better for the Block to be square decked and Heads surfaced flat. This video is nearly three years old. Did the engine lose power or seap oil?
I know CR can be manipulated. The engine was what I had. I wasn’t going to take it in for machine work. The work it had wasn’t that old. The camshaft ate itself on break in. No support from comp after that. I pulled the engine back out so the car could be used for my kids grad. As for sealing I didn’t notice any problems for the short time it was in that car
@@re-geargarage If your decks (Block & Heads were warped even as much as .004 inch, you will have sealing issues. It doesn't matter how well you scrape off old gasket material. Old Blocks and Heads were never machined flat from the factory. It's a good decision to have it decked by a reputable shop that he's the proper tools and knows how to do it right and
Yes. It definitely gets attention when people come in. I do need to fix the seat mount. It settles down with body weight and hit the valve on the cylinder and lowers. Future Re-Gear garage problem. I have projects for the next couple years on my plate. I have a couple more tractor seats I am going to make chairs for the garage out of.
Sorry. My bad, I thought you were talking about the 8 3/4”. I put the leaf springs on and starting running new brake lines. It’ll be swapped into the blue car in about a week. It’s winter here snow covered so I won’t know until the spring.
As far as I know, up until 1995 is 27 spline. Which is the same as the older cars. They switched to 29 spline after 98. However I heard up to 98 had 27 spline. So I think best to double check ahead of time. Sorry if I confused you
rwh440 thanks. I wish I did more as well. Truthfully I’m not good at the editing or There’s a better way. I do have some more work starting on the dart again. Probably winter videos though
Stumpy's Yoga Studio Thanks, I’m going to check it out. That’s why some of of videos became that small screen. I was just using my phone. I find editing the footage after using the GoPro sucks.
Barney Warwick there's far smarter guys than me to answer those types of questions. I'm in the middle of doing a magnum 5.9 carb engine to put in the car. I don't want to chance flattening another camshaft.
You got to do what you Gotta do when you don’t have a custom shop to do it for you when you Gotta do it yourself you and that’s all you can do you try to do the best you can with the tools that you have
Cummins12valve !!! I’d like to say it was good, however in the next video it flattened some lobes. I’m blaming myself, but I think there’s some chinesium steel or shit lifters.
Mark OldDiver that's awesome. I wish I had one back in the day. I wouldn't be trying to resurrect one. Always said I was born about a decade too late! Thanks for the comment. I've been toying with the idea of putting a newer 6.1 hemi in it. Of course that's a long way away. My shop is finally very useable, so I'm getting back to building it.
Korie Creson I was planning on putting a 440 into the 68 GT car that I have a blown apart. However I’m starting to think maybe a gen 3 hemi swap. That car will be started again soon. Probably next winter as the shop isn’t insulated yet. I’d like to sell the blue car. I have my eye on a duster to play with
Southern Repair I live in Canada , shipping and exchange kick the shit out of us. I can't remember the exact cost now. But I think I did 2 orders of 3k. 1 order for each side. That included shipping exchange etc. Quarter, fender and all the various small things. The full quarter equaled 950-1000 if my memory serves
Southern Repair thank you. If I had more time and money I'd move along with this project. Instead I bought the other blue one to play with while this one is idle. Next year some things will change. I'll get back to this one
I'm trying to narrow a c-body housing in order to fit my wheel & tires inside of the wheel wells. I'm also using the original big drums on it which are wider then an a- body housing drum to drum. Do you know off hand what the measurment is from(inside quarter panel) fenderwell to the other side of the cars ( inside quarter panel) fenderwell. Right now it's I have a a body housing I'm not going to chop and it's 69.50 from outside tire bulge to outside tire bulge.
Korie Creson the best way to measure is either from drum to drum or the housing alone with the axles removed. Too many variables measuring from the quarter panel, tires,rims different bodywork etc. I just did a quick internet search and found this hope it helps. It's not difficult to do. Good luck
I learned I can't upload an image to the comments. But you can either do a quick search for Dodge 8.75 housing measurements and it should come up. If not send me your email and I could send the image I got.
Craig Adams , at the time I was going to do that. However the parts were on back order with the supplier unable to give me a timeline when they’d be here. Plus being so far north the shipping times are ridiculous. So I figured mine were good just needed to be cut apart. They will get bodyworked more before paint will be done.
Fitter 1 I'm about 1 hour west of Detroit so either you are in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan or you are from Canada lol. I get quite a good time out of watching Nick's garage. I've owned a lot of six pack cars 1 Hemi car and others. Currently working on a 71 Duster that was a former drag car. Always like watching the videos!
Fitter 1 that is really incredible that you guys keep the Mopar roll going. I'm 57 this year but I got to wait from the collector car market because of all of the hoopla with it. You got to be able to drive these cars to enjoy them. And the way the market has went with the six pack and Hemi cars has driven the prices so high most of them just set collecting dust these days which I think is a pity. So I am building a car that is already set up for the 426 Hemi, only I'm using a 440 instead. It was a 318 car originally from the factory that a race team converted in 1971. Long Haul to your place or I might take the trip LOL. Always like to meet fellow Mopar guys it is a pretty unique fraternity. I guess all of the automotive manufacturers can say the same I'm not really running any of them down. But we got our choice don't we LOL
jaime soto I’m having trouble putting the left quarter panel on. I won’t be finishing the diff until have the quarter panel and spring relocation and frame connectors. The project is at a stand still until my new shop is built. Which is getting close
WarriorPriest , no I did not. I haven't got that far yet, I'm still having trouble with the left quarter panel and won't finish the diff until that's done and the spring relocation is done. I doubt I have the knowledge to help you but is there something you need help with?
Hey Fitter 1 love the vids. My son and I recently purchased a 67 Dart GT V8 automatic center console shift disk brake car. We also have plans for a 440 as well. It needs rear fender work too and thus am curious what was your final cost including delivery of your AMD fenders. We also live up hear in Canada too and so... trying to keep cost down too.
Colin Barber I can’t remember the exact number anymore. I bought my sheet metal in 2 separate orders (just couldn’t afford to do it all at once. It’s cheaper to buy all that you need to at once and only pay the one shipping. Most of the time the places you order your AMD from won’t charge you to bring to their shop if the order is big enough. But will charge to ship it from their shop to your house. I believe each one of my orders was $3K ish CDN. And the was shipped within an hour and a half of me and I just went down and picked it up once it was in. Those orders were full rear quarter (1 side) trunk extension, outer wheelhouse, front fender, taillight panel, and trunk gutter. For each side. On the left side I ordered the door sill where the striker pin mounts. Have a good look at your car before you order and be truthful because it’s easier to order it once and not try to fix rough panels
