It's a very nice looking rifle. It would nice if they did the same thing that H&R-NEF did back in the day and that was once you have the rifle, you could send it back to factory to have another barrel fitted to the frame in another rifle or pistol caliber. 44 mag, 357 or 45 LC would be a great offering for this gun. They should have supplied a mount for a scope with it as an added feature.
I have had one of these for years, but have only fired a few rounds through it of 64 grain target ammo I had left from previous gun, non of which groups, as its obvious it's their grain weight what ammo did you settle on and did you go with 50 or 55 grain bullets? Ps I'm a lefty to 😊
Super easy to tune, maintain, clean and repair. Love em! Problem is most people run em and ruin em. You can not just run em and store them. If that's your lifestyle, go buy the 500-1000 dollar saw made in Europe brands.
Good review on a great bang for your buck saw! As you said, if you aren't Timber Falling 8 hours a day, you don't need a high end Logging Saw. I have run Husqvarna XP Saws, J Reds, etc, for decades, but for a good property management Saw, this is a great investment. Mine has been flawless out of the box.
I bought one from a pawn shop a couple weeks ago but I have a small problem with it, I went to shoot it for the first time, and the problem is with the safety, after the first shot it won't go back on safety until its unloaded. If you have any advice on this subject I would appreciate it,
Sofirn is also an affordable flashlight company. I've just bought the sc33 max output of 5000 lumens. They also have a budget line up of flashlights that won't break the bank.
I’ve had this pack and used it for probably 14 years. I’ve hated it for probably 12 of those years. It has held up great and has tons of space, but organization kinda sucks. Also I found it to be very uncomfortable on any hike over a mile. But it was the pack that I always took with me. I guess it was a love hate relationship with it lol. I’ve recently upgraded to a new pack.
I’m definitely considering buying one of these. I do a lot of reloading and I have found that the 30-30 cartridge is a great shooter when using cast bullet loads. I would definitely be putting a scope on this rifle because my eyes are old. After all my years of shooting, I find that a single shot rifle is where it is at for a day on the range or roaming the countryside.
Have the cs 36 and 42 versions remove spark arrestor drill open exhaust exit .drill 3holes in top cover behind air filter run open low jet slightly and high jet Run on 40 to 1 ratio with one cap of reddex into 5 litres fuel Have used both over 5 years both are still starting 2nd 3rd pull and have paid their way times over. In that time used a 181 sthil absolute nightmare unreliable overpriced badly over enginered rubbish.
This review I stumbled on say spark plug gap should be 0.30? I found thru Google it said 0.25…. Next time it won’t start after refueling and sharpening in the field, I’ll try it… and leave an up dated comment. Thank you for the posting!
I just bought one and start to use it. I have a problem keeping the chainsaw stay running in between cuts. I have to restart the chainsaw every time I need to use it. Any idea what's wrong?
Idle and carb adjustment. They have limiters on the carb. Remove those, get yourself a chainsaw carb adjustment tool kit and adjust it. If you want the saw to run really good, drill four 1/4 inch holes in the muffler. Readjust the carb, use good quality two stroke oil and you are welcome.
I have the 42/18 Poulan pro and I love it. I've never once ran pump fuel in it. From the the very first start I've ran True-fuel. It in my opinion, is an awesome saw for the price I paid. I bought it from my place of employment, Harbor freight. It was $219 but I got my 20% employee discount so I got a hella good deal and a hella great saw. It's perfect for my needs
That was my first saw I broke the damn thing in the first 30 minutes of using it because I'm a dumbass so I bought the one in the video and I'm going to learn how to use it
That's the same mods I made for mine . The muffler piping works well but heavy to carry. I also added a baffle inside to deflect the fire/heat form going directly up the pipe. It all made a big difference in heat. I also drilled the door air intakes with a step bit to make them bigger as they were to small and had trouble taking air . It sounded like a choo choo train and spitted flames . I added small a pipe inside that goes from front to the back adding more air to the rear . It seems to help burning gases down there . I might add a damper to the pipe also .
All good, except that a key purpose of having a rifle cheek riser is to have an actual "riser" as part of its design. They should have foam inserts of varying height.
You shouldn't rubbish a product you don't understand. Take the strap, go under the butt, through the metal loop, back under the butt and then pull tight and fasten off.
I've owned mine for about 10 years now, hiking, hunting, snowshoeing, outdoor overnighters etc and it's just awesome. Solid quality, very comfortable, and holds up well! Great review!
i just got myself a LKM85 7.62x39 , watched this video- good vid. i checked my lug, it has also been modofied a little i would believe.. it cycles good. nice rifles..
Yeah, most cleaning compounds around about 1000 grit. 450 is a little bit too course. If you want to slick it up even further, get some stropping compound. That’s usually around about 2000 grit
Husqvarna is Swedish for Poulan. Husqvarna emblems and part numbers should be found on closer inspection. The bars are narrow at the tip to reduce kickback but that results in greater wear on the tip sprocket for the chain running a quicker turn around the smaller corner that is there at the narrow tip, particularly when running the chain fairly tight as is often done when clearing brush to help keep the chain from being derailed from the bar by twigs or vines. So keep the tip greased and try to not use too much chain tension to extend the life of the bar. Always have to gripe about chains that are not an even multiple of 4 drive links so that all cutters are alternating pairs. When the saw is not running the choke lever should be pulled out to middle fast idle detent that will release to normal idle when the throttle trigger is pulled. Leaving the throttle butterfly cracked open at the fast idle detent when the engine is off will allow the fuel vapors to escape more easily and the saw is less prone to flooding that may appear when restarting. The fast idle detent is your friend when restarting and is the middle detent on the choke lever.
