Learning so much from your videos! Just bought a Nuffield and had a fordson major before that one day it just stopped dead and couldn't work out why but the next owner got it running and said the lift pump was blocked full of crap and fuel tank was full of sludge too so I've seen your videos on the fuel system too so now I've got a Nuffield kinda in same condition I'll be cleaning all the fuel system out and changing the the injection pump oil So thanks for doing the videos
Hi. I’m working on my dad’s Nuffield 460. I think it is a 1963. I have the steering bellhousing off and the clutch is exposed. I want to remove it. In the manual it says to remove 2 safety wires and 2 Clevis pins and slide the shaft forward. I don’t see anything that resembles this. Can anyone describe it me how to remove the clutch it would be a real big help. Thanks
@@neilmalcolm6265 If it is livedrive then the PTO drive will obscure the described parts. Probably best to go the the Facebook group I’m admin of and view the workshop manual in the file section.
I remember an old international tractor that had a similar problem you had to line up the selected with a screw driver you had to get the selectors all in line to get it into netural
We also had a Nuffield 10/60. It was a 1967 model. The most efficient part of this BMC was the PTO shaft. One of the disadvantages was that it did not lift hydraulically when the clutch was pressed.
I have a 10/60 in great condition but the brakes don't work very well and it is hilly near Meaford, Ontario. It needs new plates but I can't seem to source them. Any suggestions?
Vertical link behind the two inspection plates. Tricky to adjust, set it so the release bearing just clears the clutch so bearings not continuously spinning.
I’m not aware of them being available new, however they can be washed. If yours has disintegrated, then good used filters may be available from tractor breakers.
Can you place a tube that is slightly smaller over the bore of the bearings over the stud, a couple of cm longer than the stud and then hammer the tube!
Thank you sir Montegoson. Again a very interesting Nuffield video. Nuffield tractors are pretty rare in Denmark now a day, but I still have an old 460 in my barn.
Another interesting video Rick, I have two 10/60's which in the past I fitted new liners and through mainly laziness and not having a spanner to avoid having to remove the rocker shaft I have never re-torqued the heads. I recently changed a head gasket on a major and didn't re-do that one either. So I was surprised at just how much tighter you got them, I am torn between bothering to check them now or just leave them and keep my fingers crossed! I always clean and oil the threads before assembly though as I think this helps to get the correct torque at least in the first instance.
Very nice and interesting video, l replaced my head gasket on my diesel David Brown 900 last year, bought it knowing about this, had blown between 3 and 4, l too torqued the head bolts to 100lbs ft but have decided to leave it alone as am worried that l might snap a head bolt, for now it’s absolutely fine and seems like it will be okay.
Very few orange Nuffields here in Wisconsin but the Leyland you see them, still, they aren’t very popular unlike David Browns and Fordson majors, plenty of them about.
I have only seen 2 Nuffields/Leylands in Alberta and one in Oregon. We used cheat on some equipment by giving initial torque an extra 10%. We never knew till years later the antiseize we used allowed extra turnage of each bolt. One can get into trouble fast overtorquing many of the older less strong bolts. Good show Monty. Peter
I used to drill a hole in the top of the pencil filter and be careful not to allow the tank to run down that low. It generally worked pretty well with the exception of the 4/65's. The pencil filters had a habit of detaching which then led to the fuel tap blocking up.
I remember doing this conversion in 1984 on our universal 4 and it was something we had to do when we realised ammeter registered wrong way.@@montegoson
Your channel is super informative and much appreciated ! Some of us are just encountering these machines for the first time . I'm looking for a basic tutorial on operating a Nuffield 4/65 . From basic driving to manipulating implements . If anyone knows of one I'd greatly appreciate it .
Hi Rick, I recently inherited my father in-laws Nuffield 60-10, unfortunately he passed away around 5 years ago and it has been parked up under cover ever since. He was always very good at looking after his machinery and this was used daily on the farm. It now blows some blue smoke which I don’t recall it doing in the past, any tips on what I should do? It only gets used to beach launch my boat (I’m in New Zealand) so hasn’t really been given a decent hot running since I got it. On another note just wondering if you could advise what level the oil should be in the air cleaner and if you could possibly do a video on the workings of all the levers, pedals, gauges etc. Thanks very much, Mike.
The blue smoke is likely to be burning oil, because it’s stood and the rings have become stuck, this may cure itself or you can remove the inlet manifold and put 200cc of WD40 down each cylinder and let it stand for a week. You may need to remove the rocker cover and open the inlet valve with a lever to do this. Same oil as you use in the engine for the air filter and the injector pump. I have a video for the pump oil change.
@@montegoson Thanks for the advise, I will give this a go if it hasn’t come right after next few uses. What level should the oil be in the air cleaner? Have already checked out the injector pump oil change video and is now on my to-do list. Keep up the great work, very informative and easy to watch videos.
great video as always. two quick questions what size is the socket to open the filler cap. mine is hand tight at the moment but i want to just nip it up seems larger than an inch hex bit so i'll need to order one. also is the hydraulic filter supposed to be attached to the nut you removed in this video mine didn't come out with the nut and i just took it out by hand but looks like it was attached at some point. many thanks
I have a Nuffield 10/42, one day I was brush hogging and hit a rock and stalled the tractor. I started it back up and kept going, no problem. When I was done I disengaged the pto and could never engage it again. I wiggle the shaft left to right by hand and try pulling the lever and it just will not go in. Any thoughts on what it could be?
I served my time for a dealer on these. It wasnt uncommon for the back casting to break off. Having implements bouncing around with the lift lock in place was the main cause. As this guy says the lift lock is there to keep a parked implement or one having manintaince up in the air and safe, Its not for driving around with heavy things latched. The (heavy) implemnent goes up in the air and bangs onto the latch and eventually the casting snaps. There is a relief valve on the lift cylinder for a good reason. Dont drive around using the lift latch unless you have a spare rear casting.
There is a relief valve on the valve block to protect the pump, but I'm not aware of any relief valve on the lift cylinder to protect the tractor in case of a over load!
Hi there. Tried to start my 4/65 and it hasnt been running for 15 years. Except for a 5 min run 4 years ago. It wont now. I har a nicely loose fuelrack before the first attempt. But after turning over a couple of revs the rack is now tight and will hardly move back and forth. Have I perhaps scored something in the plunger/cylinders? Should I start out with a cleanout and disassemble the pump elements? Or any other suggestions? Thanks. Simon, Denmark.
All the components must be kept in sets, for the cylinders they relate to, and do not slacken the clamps on the square fuel rail. Other than that you can disassemble and reassemble the pumping elements.
@@montegosonthank u. Have taken the injector pipes off. Cylinder 1 and 4 is fine. Cylinder 2 piece has moved slightly on the square shaft- therefor I suspect that its nr 3 that is the problem. Do they come out upwards, plunger and pistons. I might have to remove injectors too. Do they have their own injector jackets or sit in the head wo jackets. ? Thanks for your reply:)
Hi, apologies for asking this question via the comments but I was unsure how to contact you. I’m trying to source a front axle Pivot Bracket for my Universal Three (3DL). Any ideas whereI might stand some chance? One of the corners has snapped clean off so it may be that I’ll just have to try welding it back together. I’m hoping that it’s cast steel or a forging and not cast Iron which would make welding more problematic.
