Are you interested in learning more about home improvement and car maintenance? Looking for advice on how to fix a difficult plumbing problem, searching for an unbiased review of an auto detailing product, or simply want some ideas for an easy weekend project? Then you've come to the right place! I make short, easy-to-understand videos, so whether you're a total beginner or have some experience, I hope you find them useful.
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I really appreciate your making of this video. You saved our butts today. I was trying to remove a very old pipe and it wouldn't give. Finally broke and the threaded piece was left inside the T coupling. I tried your method to get it out and it worked !!!
There is no flint, it is a piezoelectric igniter which lasts significantly longer. If it does wear out I think you have to send it in for repair though.
Hello! I have a question. I did not know I had an R600A compressor and I used the R134A. I turned it on and it did not cool. The compressor still turns on. Can I still get the R134A out and use R600A or did i completely mess it up? Thank you Elisse
If you put R134a in a system designed for R600a all the refrigerant must be removed and the system recharged with 600a. This isn't really something you can fix yourself unfortunately, that's why it is important to check the label before adding refrigerant.
@@DragonBuilds Hi! Thank you so much for your reply. Will the compressor and system work fine after the R134a is removed or does that cause damage to the actual system? Also, if there is any R134A residue left that was not efficiently taken out will that have any effect when mixed with the R600a? I really appreciate your time and information. Thank you again, Elisse
This video is old and made me laugh so hard. Especially the comments. I lost it when the metal rasp was whipped out. It’s like bringing an elephant to a dog show.
Yeah, I was in high school when I made this video and I had no idea what I was doing... Since then I have learned a lot more about how to do things right. And I love your comment about an elephant at a dog show :)
That works in most cases but if the threads are heavily worn or damaged I found nothing beats using wicking or fiber as it expands when wet to form a tight seal.
I applied the coating in May 2023 and I traded in the car in October 2023, it held up well and still repelled water. I am using the newer Cerakote coating formula on my current car, it is easier to apply and lasts longer than the old version I used in the video.
They are a great option and they even have metal cutting blades for regular circular saws (but they do need a powerful saw to work), I have also seen multi-material chop saws for sale.
@DragonBuilds yea multi cutter chop saws are amazing. Non abrasive style with carbide tipped blades. Main issue ive had with a wood cutting circular saw with the metal blade is the blades have poor lifespan because of the improper gearing and high rpms. And no chip collector is a major downside imo cuz the shrapnel it shoots out are like little pellets and they hurt lol
Bandsaw is the best. However the grinder was slow because of the wheel you used. They only do good in thin steel. An abrasive wheel would cut much faster. Depeneding on the grinder you use the grinder could actually be the fastest with an abrasive. Typically a grinder that is a 6" not jus a 5" the power and speed and torque are much better. Like the dewalt flexvolt 60v grinder. But yes sparks and some burrs. Bandsaw for the accuracy and precision is best choice when possible. Good powerful grinder with proper wheel would be 2nd and recip 3rd
The grinder in the video is a standard 4.5" grinder, I agree a 5" or 6" one would be much faster. Those diamond metal cutting wheels are actually pretty good and they do make different ones for larger grinders.
@DragonBuilds ive used them and they always dissappoint in thick steel. There advantage is not shrinking though. And in real thin metal they are actually better then abrasives. For w/e reason real thin eats through abrasives
It’s an irrigation system, it’s actually quite common to use steel above ground on irrigation systems in my area. Before the irrigation backflow it’s all copper.
Been sweating for years but ran into a brass eared elbow to brass pex fitting and the pex fitting was solder phobic. It was cleaned & fluxed well. It also blackened fast. I think that the brass used was an inferior brass or improper foundry mix.
@@masterpolir6145 In terms of durability I found the coating lasts 3-4 months when parked outside, if you park your car in a garage it should last longer.
I've been saying all along that there is an inherit issue using these fitting with "M" type copper tubes where the fitting is much harder material that the thin wall pipe causing the copper pipe to crush in the fitting causing these slow leaks. They seem to work much better on K & L type commercial copper piping. Also the jaws on that tool are poorly made and there are better tools for just a few bucks more.
I agree the tool is garbage, the dies are so poorly made. Type M is generally fine if your water is not corrosive but considering the small price difference, type L is definitely worth the investment especially for underground use.
@@earlrissel4454 I don't believe that's correct, it's a thinner wall than L but is use in almost every Home Depot for standard Plumbing and is most likely the most common used today in residential Plumbing..
My wine/beer was not cooling much and compressor would be on constantly. My fridge said it takes 1.4 ounce. Got a 6 ounce can, used a scale and put 1 ounce in. Then waited and next day the beer ice cold at 40c. Alternative is to throw out a perfectly good $500 wine cooler. Worth a shot. Def need a gauge on cable.
Well the anvils crimped well where as the Hydraulic tool from Amazon left share copper because the Anvils had to much play. I'm still not a fan using ProPress fittings on "M" grade residential copper pipe because the hard copper fittings crush the thin wall pipe an usually have small sweet like leaks Vs. commercial K & L grade copper pipes.
K and L copper is indeed stronger, but ProPress is usually okay on M copper as long as the pipe is in good condition. I saw IWISS, the manufacturer of the Bluefin tool, also makes a hydraulic version :)
@@DragonBuilds I guess you just can't teach an old Dog new tricks Lol I'm from the days of using leather gloves to flow a lead bend in Toilets. But my last forty years has been in other areas then Plumbing. LMFIAO
It's great for small projects. I have had one for several years now. I have run fresh 7014 3/32 rods on plate making a platform for a dual remote hydraulic assembly for a tractor loader. But what works best, is those 12 inch Lincoln Electric Fleetweld 1/16 and 5/64 rods, mostly are 6013. But other diameters and 7014 is available. I have seen 3/32 12 inch rods available from Lincoln. I normally would run a 220V powered Montgomery Wards PowrKraft 230AC transformer welder or a Hobart Handler 190 Mig if I was at a relative's shop on bigger projects. If you run 3/32, 1/8 diameter regularly, I recomend stepping up to a 220V powered unit. A 120V 20A circuit would make this welder work best. But 120V 15A does decent.
Good for a middle of the night fix. I got a set called kiobosh that are made of plastic that snap closed and have a silicone seal. A better permanent solution is to cut it and slip on a 1" compression valve. Dont have to worry about getting the water all the way off like a solder valve.
@@rustyshakleford5230 this is an irrigation system so it’s less important than indoor plumbing, the clamp has been holding up for about two years now. I agree compression valves are a great fix but I prefer jet sweats
I have a heavy green street sign that someone ran over. I bought a brand new dewalt XR angle grinder. Do you think it can cut? I'm using a 40 grit type 1/41 Bauer metal cutting blade. Ive been cutting it for sometime. Are you suppose to put some force into cutting? I figure, you have to line up my cut and move it up and down barely touching the blade and metal. This tool is really something.
@@KyleBillie A grinder should work. You don't want to push too hard but it is important to maintain steady pressure on the tool. You might also want to try a diamond metal cutting wheel like the one I used in the video.
@@DragonBuilds Okay, it's a "u channel sign post" so it's a very thick metal... it's not light so it couldn't be aluminum. I'll see about the blade you have:) I cut with a dremel, sawzall, circular saw. I'll get a face shield and gloves. I'll maintain the pressure to cut my line and don't be too forceful.
@@KyleBillie A dremel is for light duty detail work, it won't cut through a sign post. Your angle grinder is the right tool for the job you just need the proper disc.
