In this video I demonstrate how to properly solder a brass or bronze ball valve to copper pipe. This process works for all solder (also known as sweat) ball valves, both lead free and leaded.
Nice job, but you should also mention the two different kinds of flux. (Potable and non-potable). Also you forget to reinstall the washer back under valve nut.
You are correct, it is absolutely essential to use lead-free solder and flux for potable water applications. I haven't seen leaded solder or flux at any of my local plumbing supply stores, as modern lead free solders work well and are inexpensive.
Agreed. You should always follow the manufacturer's instructions. I have seen some that recommend the closed position, other recommend soldering them open or at 45 degrees.
The flame still seems to be very close to the ball valve. Does simply pointing the flame AWAY from the ball valve make the difference between damaging it and not damaging it? How about the other type of shut off valve, i.e., the type that has black rubber seals inside? If the seal/handle screws out as a unit, should it be removed before heating? And in situations there the black rubber seal unit can't be removed, what is the closest to the shut off valve that the flame can be applied to a copper pipe WITHOUT risking damaging the seal?
I personally wouldn't install a new multi-turn valve because ball valves are more reliable, but for multi-turn valves with rubber disc seals, the stem should be removed before soldering. If you have to solder near an existing valve, I would wrap it with a wet rag before soldering.
Once you see a ring form around the pipe you know that you have used enough solder. A handy trick is to use a length of solder equal to the pipe size, such as 1/2" of solder for a 1/2" pipe.
Solder end ball valves should be installed with the valve in a closed position. Extreme care must be used to prevent overheating of the valve causing damage to seats and seals
Make sure your pipes and fittings are clean, that is probably the most important step. Sand cloth works pretty well. Using enough flux and enough heat is important too. At the right temperature, the solder should get sucked right in.
