Trevs-Shed Reviews, Repairs, CNC with a 3018, 3D Printing with a heavily modified Ender 3 Pro and CR10 Smart Pro. Laser cutting and engraving with the Red Dragon RDL4040, Central heating installation, hot tub installation and maintenance and plenty more.
All filmed off the cuff with cockups and corrections, learning as we go.......
Latest and future planned videos will cover the XBox Series X and Microsoft Flight Simulator, Mostics 3018 CNC, Red Dragon CO2 Laser engraver system and more repair videos........
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Ghd straighteners mk5 no heat bleeping sound but no red light have checked thermal fuse heater pads resister r8r11 cable and are all ok what do you think thanks
Have you been running into issues running your kiln, (I did the heating cycle in the beginning, yet I keep running to random issues and none of the warning lights or anything, I’m getting a bit stumped) I Honestly tithe manufacturers have sent me a broken kiln twice.
Hi Trevs, with your help I was capable to disassemble and re-assemble the GHD Pro Max which was not working due to red beeps... It seems that it was a fault contact problem, because once tear down, the plates and the thermistores were working. Again thanks for your video! Kind regards Andrea
Not a good tech handling. Use a smaller solder iron tip, and "clean". Your dirty and large tip made a mess on board. Use a paste style of solder flux, like 8341 No Clean Flux Paste from MG, instead of wet all board with liquid ones, another mess. Don't need to apply so much Chipquik low temp melting solder, just a fine line, don't waste time - lift the chip as soon both sides are melted, immediately, with tweezer, not pliers. In some cases when the chip is very thin and difficult to grab with tweezers I glue a sewing thread with super glue (just a small dot) on center of the chip, and keep pushing gently, when the chip is ready it will lift easily.
Thanks for this presentation! Was just wondering how well the mic button works, it's the only one you haven't tested...! It's the Google Assistant, right? And what physical mic does it use, the car mic or the phone mic? And the audio answer is delivered on the car speakers I guess? Thanks in advance!
Love how the UK plugs are decently made and fused. Thanks for the look! I ordered one of these cheap things to come state side. Obviously quality control is - Non-existent. Will go through it and make sure everything is grounded properly. You shouldn't need the internal fuse after adding the new fused plug, but no harm in leaving it. I'll probably open mine up and change out the cord.
Your two readings of 27 ohms and 15 ohms between each the thermal fuse pad and its associated element wire tell me that the thermal fuse pads are connected between a split element. ie 27 + 15 = total of 42 The Platinum + that I have here appears to have a similar 4 wire Element/Thermistor arrangement. ie. I measure 40 ohms for the element and 490 ohms for the thermistor. The thermistor appears to be a PTC type. Do you have any info on the specs for the internal Thermistors at all ?
You seem to be using an older apk software. I bought a B41T+ meter and the software seems to have changed to iMETER apk which i believe is valid also for the OW18E. The iMETER software is missing numerical values on horizontal and vertical scales on data graph which makes the whole point of a graph useless. The old software does not seem to appear on site or Playstore.
Screws that are supplied are prepacks made by the cheapest supplier. I almost invariably never use them at all, using either chipboard screws or drywall screws, bought from Pelican MIS, as those are the strongest screw you can get. They will self drill, even though they are not actually self drilling, and will go into 2mm steel tube no problem.
This video was certainly very helpful even if old! Unfortunately, half of the teeth on the turning cog in my tow bar were missing! Also the outer pin that is supposed to get pushed up seems to have seized completely in the bar itself and I'm not sure how to get it unstuck without breaking it. These bars seem to be pretty low quality. I don't think I will be able to salvage mine to get through yearly inspections (I wonder how my car passed last year before buying it?) and I have no clue where to get a new one of these.
Thought I'd mention, at 2:44 you talk about Honda not locking doors automatically when you drive away. They do actually do this, it just may not be turned on in your car. It's been a minute since I knew my way around their infotainment, but the way it *used* to be set was in the Settings, Vehicle Settings, Door Lock Settings. Looking at the manual for a modern one, it looks like in the dashboard settings there's a "Door Setup" setting. Either way, you're looking for "Auto Door Lock" and you can choose to have it Disabled, With Vehicle Speed (over here in the states it was 10mph), or Shift From P. It was literally my job to know the settings and systems of the vehicles. That's all I did, was show people and help people set things up or understand how to use the tech or other things in the cars. I always advised against the extended warranties. Dealerships suck, full stop.
@@Trevs-ShedWhat an odd thing to omit. I'd assumed the software, like the rest of the car was a global platform with whatever regional differences. Esoecially considering the manual from Honda UK for the 16-21 model years even includes it (which I did check before posting.) Go figure. I imagine you've tried it, but the old-school method of park (or neutral maybe, if stick), e-brake, brakes, ignition, out of P/N, hold Lock button. It's quite confusing and poorly documented, but its how they used to set it before the big screens were added. Sorry for giving you bad information earlier. What a load of nonsense. Infinite wisdom of Honda indeed.
I guess it's a bit of a tradeoff between getting rid of a nasty neighbour and putting off potential new neighbours by making sure that the disputes are known about.
Same problem with my glass bed. 1st time it happened after forcefully removing printed part while still hot. But now the same happened again when taking the fully cooled down part without any force. However, I am using 90 degrees for first layer and 80 for remaining part to get reliable adhesion with PETG (which I could not achieve with lower temperatures). Cleaning always with isopropyl. And I don't know how to get the glass bed removed from the heat plate.
Very disappointed in this Ghd straightener especially because it’s very expensive. Does nothing for frizzy and wavy hair. Yes it’s very noisy, worse than my old hair dryer. Ghd customer service is terrible, they don’t care. 👎
This is not for wavy hair results but straight. It is a straightener hair dryer, be patient when sectioning ur hair, use it from the top to bottom and finish with the straitened option “shine shot” once is dry.
Hello very interesting video I would like to know where we can find the charging dock? THANKS Bonjour vidéo très intéressante j'aimerais savoir où on peut trouver le dock de chargement ? Merci
