Welcome to The Old Jarhead! Join us on an exciting journey into the world of off-grid living. Here, we share expert tips and hands-on tutorials on building your own off-grid cabin, harnessing sustainable power solutions, and mastering the art of sawmilling with our portable sawmill along with 'day in the life' videos of what it's like to be at our off grid cabin in the woods. Whether you're a seasoned builder or just starting out, our content is designed for those who appreciate craftsmanship and self-sufficiency. Subscribe and discover how to create your own slice of paradise, one project at a time!
That's a very budget-friendly and logical way to store additional energy. 🤠 However, I would not have so easily discounted an independent D/C to A/C Inverter. For example... with a 3000-watt pure sine wave inverter, you can connect multiple batteries (in parallel) as long as the voltage remains the same. Then, charge your Power Station via the "A/C input", generally 2-3 Times faster than the D/C input. You can also connect your inverter to a vehicle to charge your Power Station, appliances, battery charger, etc. directly when you have little or no sunlight.
I'm doing the bucket n sawdust method for 6 years...got to walk 10 yards to get there - later dumping the full buckets in a pallet-made compost bin \ covered in straw for about a couple years ..... No complaints from me & works well. Sometimes those 10 yards seems like its 50 yards - LOL
The only expandable battery that makes sense to me is the pecron one. It's 899 minus their 5% discount its 854 out the door. It has dc ports and a 400w charge controller in it as well. The battery is 3072 wh's making it 27 cents per kwh. That's a great deal for an expandable battery. I know I always mention them but they give you a lot of bang for your buck. I do love this idea of yours. I want to do it for my smaller pecrons that don't have expandable bat. capacity. It's a real game changer. Just would need to get a charge controller for the separate battery.
I'll have to check out the Pecron as that sounds like a pretty decent product! As for the CC -- power stations have built in MPPT controllers so you couldn't need one (unless the ones you have don't for some strange reason??)...even the jackery which only has one charging port works this way as it's built in controller handles the battery input great.
Now while you have this all set up, can you plug in say a foldable solar panel to this setup and charge the whole system while you are using your crockpot?
@@doc3356I agree. You would still have to move all this around to get it all recharged from time to time. Obviously it was put together for demonstration purposes for the video. It does make economical sense for sure and definitely he definitely makes a valid point
It looks like you did so many things wrong with this build I don't know where to start. You started with the wrong base in your holes, size of post, build larger than your Beams, I have a post and pier system on the Gulf Coast and been through many hurricanes no movement. Your start (foundation) is key.
It could definitely been better though it's been through heavy winds and done just fine. 15 years and still doing it's job. I regret doing it because I could have done it better ;) That's why I made the video, to warn others but I'm also fixing it and today, it's quite stable.
I LOVE your honesty. I have considered many of your cabin issues, but it is my bucket list item to build myself an offgrid cabin and retire there before I pass away. I'm currently 53. I'm hoping to retire at 55. I'm in the process of looking for land in Arkansas or Oklahoma. The first thing I have researched is building codes, including septic and electric. I'm sure you know, but some counties require a Certificate of Occupancy before you can actually live in your cabin. In many places, to get a COO you need electric and running water. Well, this certainly doesn't play well with the Off-Grid life! I'm finding a few counties that ARE off grid friendly and as long as you don't create a mess with your waste, they will leave you alone. No building codes, no inspections, and more of a "we don't have laws about that, so we don't bother to look into it" attitude are definitely the places that one should look to build a cabin. I've thoroughly researched rainwater collection, gray water recycling, and yes cabin building. I even bought and studied the 2021 IRC code book, and plan on building as close to code as I can while being off grid. My work schedule affords me two - four day weekends every month. The plan after finding the proper land is to take a year and build the cabin, develop the land, and build the solar and water systems over that years time, then finally retire into the cabin when I'm ready. You are right about the tools! I've been collecting the required tools for almost a year now. Amazon, Home Depot, and Lowes always have a good sale every few months and I've picked up quite a selection of DeWalt Cordless tools always on sale. Circular saw, nail guns, hand tools, batteries and chargers... I'm currently looking for to start on a solar power plan. Probably going to go with an EcoFlow Delta Pro 3 and some 400 watt solar panels, combined with a good old fashioned generator. I've watched every RU-vid video I can find about cabin building and off grid living. I've got to the point now that I can point out a poor foundation, lack of vapor barrier, and one I see all the time... poor Roof Framing, either no rafter ties, or no ceiling joists (I can't wait to see if the roof blows off in a major storm, or want to see how quickly the walls bow as the roof sags.) Other major problems include framing the subfloor with screws that have absolutely zero sheer strength, or not using galvanized nails on pressure treated wood. Or, not even using pressure treated wood on ground contact lumber. (I wonder how long until it rots) Everyone has a dream, and I hope everyone gets a chance to experience their dream. It's not all as easy as it sounds though and to come out on the "finished" side of those hopes and dreams always take a lot of research and hard work. It's certainly possible to get it done, but one must work hard to put in the time and effort. Upon completion though, I feel the rewards are worth the effort!
I am sometimes honest to a fault lol but I feel it's best to be that way. It sounds like you have a good plan but I'd like to suggest one thing: don't use a power station for your off grid power. Sure, they work for weekenders but for a full time off grid cabin I'd buy the components instead. It's easy enough to build, costs a lot less money and the components, if they fail, are less expensive and easier to replace. By picking each component yourself you get to both be familiar with the inner workings but (while saving money) can choose those that fit your needs better. Good luck! It's a wonderful journey!
I have a idea on building a off grid cabin, using a salvage fifth wheel for cabinets, appliances, and some of the electrical stuff in a 30x40 cabin shell
I think this is a good reason to not do the things that you have done, rather than an honest evaluation of the the cons of a post and pier foundation. I can not imagine installing drains hanging in free space below the insulated floor. I can't imagine installing staple up insulation without a solid barrier against rodents, let alone not getting around to installing hardware cloth. Crap, you haven't even finished the wall behind you, where you have artistically hung some ancient tools. Your bracing of your foundation looks foolishly inefficient.
In all fairness, the cabin doesn't move anymore, and after 15 years, I'd say it's doing ok. Many have built foundations like this and are happy with them. Then, of course, it had been over 15 years since I last framed, so I was learning again. Now, the wall behind me? I'm guessing you are new to my channel, so first, welcome! Second, I'm a disabled veteran who currently can't stand long enough to finish it right away, but I will! Stay tuned.
@@TheOldJarhead I'm sorry that with your disability that you can't stand long enough to get things done. But I'll stand by my assessment. Your problems were largely a result of poor decisions that you made, rather than being intrinsic to the foundation system that you chose. I guess that I can thank you in that I still expect to use Post and Pier, but given my financial situation, I'll probably be able to over-engineer it so that I won't face the issues that you have encountered.
And therin is the reason for the video. As I mentioned, I know post and piers can be done right, and I regret not doing mine better. I want people to know of my mistakes and my successes in hopes that they help others. Now, my disabilities slow me down, but I'm a marine. They won't stop me! Right now, I'm recovering from two badly slipped discs and likely a cracked vertebrae, so it's hard to finish things, but I keep atvit.
My solar panel are 2 years old only...monocrystaline and bifacial....They are rated at 5600 watts total installed...I saw on my victron system consistent 6200 watts production on cold clear suny days...its insane..i thought i will get like 5000 watts in good conditions,but its working waay better,in 3 hours my 17kw battery bank is boom full...and we use like 8-10kw/normal day,when we shower,cook and all...everything electrik ofc,the coocktop,and its oven too...its awsome...if they gonna last like yours,i gonna be eternally happy that i installed them...i think the bateries gonna be the first to give in...Victron is also quite good quality...will,time will tell,thx for the nice video:)
Thanks for this. Great video! We have a 3000 unit in a seasonal application for about 15 years now. I concur with pretty much everything you have said. We operate ours pretty much the way you do with a couple design exceptions. I feel the largest hurdle was (and still is for visitors) realizing you only need a fraction of the water as does a normal toilet. WRT incinerating toilets we recently added an Incinolet unit to take the large group pressure off of the centrex. I’m happy with both units providing backup for one another. Once again, great descriptor video for the centrex product.
Thanks! After speaking with Sun-Mar I got a tip from them on the 'ugly' part of cleaning out the base -- run the AC side for several hours so it dehydrates the black water and then cleaning it out is much easier and less messy! I'll be trying that next trip! Cheers!
What I see happening now when it comes to old solar panels is that the wattage per square meter has become way more efficient. You could look at taking the space that the 14 year old array is taking up now and look at least doubling its rated output. I am not saying it is the right move for everybody but as power demands have grown because the energy storage technology and price has fallen, people are adding larger inverters and more appliances. Array space has become valuable and sometimes it just makes more sense to re-panel. I am sure 14 years ago you likely did not expect to be running what is possible now in the old cabin.
I had panels installed in 2000 or so, 18 x 165W SHARP panels (SHARP NE-165U1's). They still work, but over that time I did have two panel failures due to corrosion caused by moisture ingress. Silly me, those two panels had gone into bypass and I hadn't noticed the failures! I just thought the system was producing less due to age! My original grid-tie inverter died at 17 years old and the new one I bought to replace it had three MPPTs (the original only had one), so when I hooked the new one up and gave each string its own MPPT, I immediately noticed the discrepancy and realized that there were two dead panels up top. Replacing those brought the system almost back to its originally-installed specs, probably also helped by the separate MPPTs (once string gets partial shading part of the day). I did eventually replace that array. New panels are more efficient and had dimensions and voltages that fit my garage roof better, so by replacing it (*DIY*), I was able to upgrade from 3kW to 5kW in the same roof space. The upgrade cost me 1/10th what the original system cost me, it was well worth doing, and DIYing. The original now 24-year-old panels are still working in their new home (a friend's house). -Matt
Great topic, those darn door knockers selling solar systems that charge a fee to maintain, and then replace due to worn, damage solar panels. Keep on charging, sit back and enjoy the terrain. :)
I hear you on the fallacies that go along with most of the ROI arguments against solar. I hear you on the fact that decent quality panels tend to retain their output for a very long time. However, I completely disagree with you on the idea that you should just install a system, make sure it's working, and then fuggeddaboutit! You don't really do that, as evidenced by the videos you put out. Nobody should do that. A system should be monitored periodically to hopefully catch small problems before they become big ones. Also, more people should be truly knowledgeable about their solar setup, but they aren't.
All true -- though I kinda mean stop watching it all day every day - set the constant analysis down. Put in a system that works and sure, check it (specially FLA batteries) regularly but don't get wrapped up in watching it all the time like a hawk. Let it do it's thing ;)
I think all of your comments are true. But I think there is a little more detail. There are a few different main categories of panel type. Under those are even more subtle differences. For basic panels they probably do tend to have a long life. But as they push the limits of materials a cost reduction SOME panel types or materials get you larger initial returns through higher efficiency at a cost of money and/or longevity. Just saying that not all panels only degrade 1% per 10 years. That’s probably better than average.
I just bought my parents home from the estate. Post and pier. In great shape, easy to inspect and repair. All redwood. Like anything it can be done wrong. 6x8 posts, tall enough to work under. If tied in it is rigid. Simpson is not the way to go.
I use wood at the cabin but have a backup heater for those cold winter days I arrive and it's below freezing (well below) in the cabin and I need some help getting it warmed up before bedtime lol
If you want to go crazy you can glue XPS hard board insulation on the back side of the courragated metal siding Metal siding is fireproof and blocks the wind
I don't think they degrade drastically at all. Case in point my Q cells 400 w panels come with a 25 year warranty. A manufacturer would never warranty past it's date. That would be just stupid. Q cells are good but they are far from the best money can buy. Some of these brands have longer warranty's. If I get 25 years out of these they will have paid for themselves and then some.
@@TheOldJarhead Well maybe, I hope that Q Cells will still be around in 25 years, oops there goes your warranty, haha, new panels will probably be cheaper than the costs of claiming the warranty..
My 100 Watt RENOGY Solar Panels are Delivering Their Value over many years of use now, Eco Worthy 200 Watt BiFacial Solar Panels are My newest Investment. I'm still generating way more than expected to Meet My needs.
I left a comment about this power brick that talk about the specs for your using this unit to run your electronics that it will not provide a true 119 or 120 volts under a load . the web site that does this testing is a youtube channel that is not paid by anyone. this site is The Solar Lab I said check it out so you wouldn't lose any of your equipment from low voltage power supplies. Please look up this solar lab channel to protect your equipment. I do My homework or research I think you need to look into that unit more carefully. Just a Vermonter trying to help you out.
Thanks for the note. The ANSI standard for usable voltage for the consumer is a tolerance of +5% to -10%, so as long as a unit tests between 108v and 126v, it would be considered safe for consumer electronics. Most think we use 110v, but we don't. We use 120v. Now, in my case, my Generac Ecogen is running at 117-119v at 60htz, and I've never had any issye with my electronics, but I would be happy to check out their channel and see what they say.
Also, they did not test or review this unit, I just looked. Furthermore, the All Powers unit I reviewed in a different video did not have any issues. I didn't test voltage but may have to now just for fun 😉
OK I found the one about the 'Air Fryer' - and I see now the voltage drop. That's interesting and I might have to do some testing myself. However, I'd like to note that I've only ever used one of these power stations to run one thing at a time which his testing seemed to show that it did well. I think trying to run 3 1500 watt heat guns at once while a good test isn't a practical use of the power station so I'll give it a pass. For me, these are just that, portable power. If I want something to run 2 1500 watt heat guns I'll run them off my much bigger power system ;) With 4kw inverter that can peak at 1500 watts. But it's fair to say that the EcoFlow, Bluetti, Anker etc power stations (which range from twice to three times as expensive) should be much better machines. It's just now a question of: is it worth the extra $500 to $1000+ so I can run multiple things at once when I never do? OR at least almost never do on the 120v inverter on any of my power stations? For me, it's not worth it.
Couldn't agree more, December is our worsed month, sun only gets up after 9am. Sideways rain and with 3 strings of 5kw, we only manage 13 watts. Last two years we had a week of freezing ice, no sun no wind only cold and fog. Temps drop below 5 degrees c. After 5 days we are iced up. A 2kw generator is the only answer. Living off grid is still worth it. Using less than €200 of gas a year is still makes it worth it.
I split my time between my off grid cabin and my RV in AZ. I've been using a compost toilet for years. It's a small self contained unit it works good for me.
@@TheOldJarhead Nature's head I think. It's a small self contained unit and it separates the solids and the liquids. I dump the urine daily and the compost is changed every few days depending on use.
At this point you have to put a bottom plate and top plate between all posts get 3/4 ply not OSB use PL constuction adhesive and engined screws on all edges
