Did it sequel constantly. I’m having a whining noise come from the front drive side of my 2010 6.4 it’s not constant so I really don’t know if it’s a bad ground through the radio or if it’s something like this.
Great review...I just found it.... we're looking at Chinese alternatives to Kubota here in the Philippines....Seems like many of the issues are related to the engine swap to meet Canadian EPA regs....and the half-assed bastardized conversion....but I wonder how others have found the performance of the original engine...
Any chance you know if it’s normal for some air to come out where the fork shaft comes out? I noticed you didn’t put a seal there so I’m assuming it would be normal. I sprayed my engine down with soapy water to try and find leaks and the one spot that bubbled up is right at that shaft that you just installed. Trying to figure out if it’s normal or not, and really hoping you may know the answer to that lol.
I am faced with same problem but mine is on back seat so much easier to get buckle loose by just taking the 18mm nut off the bolt on floor. But now I need to figure out how you split the housing apart and how to glue it back together once I get it cleaned out! Would be nice to show video how you split open the buckle plastic housing!
Hi, i mostly agreee with the mentioned points... but not about child labor... yes, it needs a lot of adjustments to make it work properly. What i want to add - at least what i see on my HM130Max - the post system i dont like, the teflon pushings are crap - there is always play in it - you cant adjust it to be firmly- if so they wear out quickly. So the head is always in a shake during cuts. As you said, the head isn't stable at all - it wiggles like a dog tail. My engin starts like a charm - first pull or after 1 sec of e-start - it idles... bangs and pops at the end - yes it does - i dont care about it. It vibrates like hell - maybe some rubber vib-absorbers woold be good. Another thing to be mentioned - the quality of the paint it bad, very bad- i have it covered with rost everywhere - paint is coming of in big chuncks after 2 years... I dont like the throttle at all, you dont get the full revs - no matter how you are adjusting the cable. Rails - yes i agree- this is a fail. I was loading a oak log with the traktor on it - the rails gets bend so easy - but the good thing is - with a sludge hammer - they are bend back quickly. ;-) no to be honest - the rail system is crap. I never had thrown of any band yet... bearings are fine, clutch is fine etc... tensioning system is also fine - very basic but it works. The hight adjustment with cables needs to be adjusted time to time, thats fine, i dont like the handle - it takes awefull long time and muscle power to get from top to bottom and bottom to top position. The measurement ruler are junk - dont use them. After 2 years out in the elements they shrink and the readings are wrong - so the thickness of the boards is wrong as well - what a bloody nightmare! I glued a std. steal ruler to it and not everything is in size again. Took me a while to figure that out. At the hm130 the banks are covered with stainless steal so it does not react with oak wookd for example- thats good. The librication system needs some modifications to but the lub where it belongs - but this is an easy fixe. All over, yes - its a cheap machinery made out of chinesium in china - but as we are in europe, its metric which is good (not imperial - because of not having and imperial tools), its cheap which is also good and for my purpose as a starter in cutting lumber its a good (enoght), cheap entry to make, to learn and realy know what i want to have, what works for me and what i realy need to look at buying a better bandsaw once the next time. I didnt want to invest 15k€ to figure out its not my hobby any more, i dont like it or i dont need it anymore - so i have invested 4k€ to learn and make mistakes and bend things up etc... and at the end, with some adjustments, modifications, etc... you will get the job done quite well... Summary: Yes, cheap chinesium from china, yes, lots of down sides of the mill but as entry, for learning and starting, getting some projects done - its worth the money. With a bit of fiddeling you will get it working somehow good enought to make some decent lumber. Would i buy this saw if i want to enter lumber business professionally - NO. Would i buy this saw again - NO because i have already learned so many things what i like, what i want to have and whats important for my way of working - would i recommand the saw for someone who wants to try it out and start learning on a small budge - YES. Am I happy with it - YES - for now. Remember - you get what you pay floks. UPDATE: One thing i forgot to mention - the extension blade guide - this thing is most likely the main reason why this saw is not cutting properly. This is realy bad desing and you cant adjust it to be sturdy to guid the blade - best option is to keep it always way in and fix it in place a good as possible. Thinking of it - i think thats even the worst part of the whole sawmill. Thats a fail in design, construction and material choice... a total loss.
Thanks so much for the video, I think it gives a very important perspective on the mill! I have a Hm126 myself and I only have 15 hours on it. I have been fighting with in from the beginning because the blades keeps coming off (I destroyed 10 or so already). I think for what the mill costs it is a good mill (if you really think about it.. of how many parts there are and everything). But there are so many flaws.. you need to be a mechanic and need to enjoy tinkering on that stuff (I simply have a hard time finding time for it and/or simply don't enjoy it and would rather mill logs than fix machinery). I think that I will try to fix my tracking issues and mill the logs up that I have and sell it. If I were to ever buy one again it would be a Woodmizer I think. But a new lt35 hydraulic is 50k now so I don't think it makes any sense anymore.. maybe just buy lumber in the future.
$440 for a catch can is ridiculous. I'm searching for an alternative now. The problem is finding a can with big enough inlets and outlets. Most are pretty small. Best I've found is a unit with 3/4 fittings and it has baffles. $40. I'll modify that with hoses, fittings, and a bracket and save money.
For starters I’m not usually this harsh but dang 😂😂😂 what a joke learn to set up, level and true your track right everything you described for one u should have known before you purchased and for 2 it sounds like most of your problems are USER error !!! sounds like you should probably stay in the house with with women sorry not sorry I mean dang listen to yourself 😢
A mate has just last week purchased the Australian version of this 55 hp 4x4 - yes we expect a few minor issues with minor items that won’t effect the actual performance of the tractor - but these things won’t cause us the grief they seem to give you. Purchase was through Tanner Track in Melbourne Victoria Australia- David the owner of this business is very knowledgeable about his Lovol tractors and we are confident about any support we will need from him - this is the advantage of dealing with a good local agent/supplier how knows his stuff.
Metal fragments on the gearbox magnetic plug - if the ball of debris is no bigger than the end of your thumb stop stressing --you were non specific about the quantity of this debris! -- I have a Zetor 6245 a 1985 build that always has debris on the magnetic plug - think this is caused by the rough as guts friends that borrow it. Look for large chunks of metal ie bits of gear teeth and bearing cages - if you find these start to worry, not before.
Think you will find that hydraulic tank is just a surge tank there is also hydraulic oil in the compartment on top of the transmission that this tank connects to - letting the oil level down a little in that upper tank won’t be a problem. I have a Chinese tractor that doesn’t have this surge tank - you just fill the top compartment to a little over 1/2 full - never a problem.
Think you will find that hydraulic tank is just a surge tank there is also hydraulic oil in the compartment on top of the transmission that this tank connects to - letting the oil level down a little in that upper tank won’t be a problem. I have a Chinese tractor that doesn’t have this surge tank - you just fill the top compartment to a little over 1/2 full - never a problem.
Don’t go to hassle of installing an electric valve - just fix the existing valve - probably just an o ring - or put a quality inline valve some were in this coolant line - reaching under bonnet and turning a valve on or off is no big deal when doing your pre start checks.
Have you checked the relief valve settings before whinging about the hydraulics being weak - sometimes just a few hundred psi can make a big difference!
Sure you are not just overfilling the head tank on the radiator - seems like level should be about 1” below top when cold - then it expands to just below the cap after warm up - this is how old style radiators worked that didn’t have an expansion bottle We used to fill the old style radiator (without an expansion bottle) to the top - then expect some overflow during the first run - then on checking when cold level would be 1” down this was normal.
Nice. I was hoping you'd found the perfect scrap material I have lying around to make a custom boot... Alas, the base of my Dingo joystick is square, so the search continues... I might just end up with your method and trust the power of zip ties around the base. 😇 (Zip tie is actually part of the OEM install of the correct part, regardless.)
I completely agree with you very same problems except engine problem. Complete junk,but for 4k probably nothing better. Got woodmizer much better go for
Honestly haven’t been around Fords long enough to realize but my family keeps buying GM and every single piece of chrome on any GM vehicle at any time is bubbling up or rusting.
Considering the price point and the fact it was 14 years old at the time of the video, you can't really complain about it too much! The things that have broken are likely to break on any brand of machine that age, especially of that type of machine. The rest of it is just keeping on top of it as things fail as with anything. To be honest, if you can still buy this exact same machine today I think I'd prefer it to the major brands. Most of those machines have just become far too complex and expensive to keep for just doing casual work. I saw one of the newer bobcat tracked loaders the other day with a guy plugging a tablet into it to reset something so it would rev up again properly. I think most of us would be happy without that kind of BS in our lives! 😁
I understand what you got for the $, it's a piece of junk, don't need the problems this one gives you. Thanks for sharing the video. Off to another sawmill for sure/
The biggest concern to me is the uneven rails, if in fact you manage to get other things corrected one way or another, the most important thing is true sized, straight, usable lumber. I've been using a thing called "woodbug" designed and built by a fellow on Vancouver Island, good, but because it is a chainsaw milling appl. so much wasted wood, However quite true lumber.
Hey awesome video ended up having to do this to my 6.4l one thing what do the connections look like at the fuel pump we are talking about the one on the frame rail correct??
Weird title and video. Why you need a catch can but also why it’s not worth it. Huh? I thought you were going to offer an alternative that works better or at least clarify why you think the mishimoto option is not that good.
was the bone that attaches the actuator to the vanes lose? I replaced the bone that attached to the vane arm and the dang thing keeps falling off and is lose! I don't know what to do besides tack weld it on... which I don't really want to do
