A collection of DIY 'how to' videos that hopefully "come in handy" for other people. DIY home, cars, electrical, electronic, building, fixing, leasure, reviews and hobby bits.
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The added oil is not to thin it, it is to keep the solution oilier, more penetrating, more mobile and it lasts longer as it stops the waxoil cracking after several years.
@@comeinhandynow you misunderstand. Rather than heat it with a hot air gun, thin with white spirit to ease spraying. Grannies and eggs. I've used it for 40 years
Thank you a bit of common sense , I have only just brought a Freelander 1 it is not the first one I have owned but both have had the K1800 motor the first one I had it fitted with a brand new motor and the thermostat was fitted externally from Landrover at great expense after having cylinder head problems with the old motor this was 14 years ago it was a 2000 model and with the new motor it was a briant little four wheel drive very reliable after I sold it 5 years ago I missed it so much I recently brought another a 04 four door with a very straight body my intention is to restore it and incorporate some modifications such as your thermostat re location so thank you very much for taking the time to share it, brilliant.
hello I'm from Indonesia. I have a problem with the red steering indicator turning on, the steering wheel won't turn and the ignition key won't turn on and start the engine. is the problem the same as this? help me thank you
@@comeinhandynow Sometimes you can turn the steering wheel but only after a moment does it lock again, and you still can't start the engine, which means the steering lock problem is the one like in the video, right? help me thank you
Hi, first of all i like how you explained all. I am not a mechanic but i like to work on my MG ZT. Please give me some advice. My engine is shacking at idle , is lacking power, and when the engine is decelerating i hear some burbling noise on exhaust. I put new spark plugs, new coils, new leads, new catalityc converter,new vis motors and the car still run bad, no power at all. I feel the kick from vis motors at 3000-4000rpm but the car is accelerating hard is not smooth. Also long fuel trims are on 1 bank positive and the other bank negative (-0,5% and +1,5%). So what the hell is going on with my engine? Could be timing misaligned? No misfires and no check engine . Compression on all 6 cylinders is 180-190psi. O2 sensors are working but they are the original ones ,could be the sensors are old? I dont have a t4 tester and no mechanic want to work on my car. Thanks!
Thanks, are any engine obd2 codes coimg up on a scanner? Generic cheap obd2 scanners will tell you what the o2 sensors are doing and give some indication that they are working or not. A couple of percent fuel trim doesn’t sound a problem as it’s not very different. A check of the valve timing would certainly be a good idea and it only cost time, free if you do it yourself. The symptoms could indicate the timing is out.
@@comeinhandynow That's what I was thinking that the timing is a little off because the engine feels like an 1.4 engine and not like an 2.5 v6. I will check the timing and I will let you know. Do you have an email or something where I can write to you if I need more advices? And thank you kindly for your answer!! And no faults on obd. And the O2 sensors are switching every second from 0.2 to 0.8v and the one after the cat will stay at 0.6v
It's a "TIGHTENING" sequence, NOT an untightening. It's really only important during installation. However, if it were, wouldn't it make more sense to loosen first, the bolt that was tightened LAST?
There should be a tightening and untightening sequence to avoid distortion. The first/last question is not that important as the bolts will be all tightened the same amount.
Just bought a load for my mx 5. I wasn't sure if I had to paint 1st or use rust reverter, etc ? There are so many different opinions. I'll use this method as it's intended. Thanks
Nope, tried it. Doesn’t work on old bumpers as no oil to rise to the surface. Just replace the lost oil like the video. So much faster and you don’t melt the plastic!
Nope, tried it. Doesn’t work on old bumpers as no oil to rise to the surface. Just replace the lost oil like the video. So much faster and you don’t melt the plastic!
When I put my key in the drivers door lock it’s very stiff and while I was unlocking it something slipped and nor I can’t lock the door at all with the key , now to lock and unlock I have to go through the passenger side across to the drivers door and pull up on the locking button to unlock and push down to lock .what do you think has happened cheers
From the video description section: The copper foil with conductive adhesive can be bought here: Amazon UK: amzn.to/3c0wZNZ Amazon USA & other countries: amzn.to/2JKRXVc
I attempted to repair the mechanisms on my TD4. Web t the whole hog and removed the headliner etc. lifted the glass out(much the same state as your one) and then removed the ‘cassette’ and stripped it down on the bench. Despite several weeks of ‘immersion’ I failed to release the mechanisms enough to make them work. I ‘restored’ the glass (a temporary bodge) using some filler and cleaned off as much corrosion as possible. In refitting the motor I couldn’t alone the wires correctly so it went back in in a Worse condition regards functionality than when it came out. Didn’t try any new parts. Mechanisms were £250 EACH when I last looked. A new sunroof glass was £150 a few years ago.. cheapest these days £349. I shall revisit this project later..
I sympathise, it does take a fair bit of patience and analysis of why parts aren’t moving smoothly. Some of the new parts (non OEM) were a tighter fit than the old parts, so if they weren’t broken then better to reuse the old bits. Same on the alignment, just a few tries and a bit of analysis to see which fitting position is correct. Taking the motor apart is an important step to free up the gear movement. Good luck!
Thanks - the idea of using a pin to measure the connection of the plastic PCB is really helpful as I think I have one wire to replace and I wasn't sure if it is the top or the bottom connections that are at fault.
What a fantastic video, thanks for sharing. I have quite a lot of play there, and you never know when some play becomes too much play. Would you have a part number for the oil seal please. Many thanks
Thanks. Here is the IRD oil seal from ebay uk: ebay.us/JMtjKz Here is the LM603011/49 bearing from ebay uk: ebay.us/xer5n7 Or from Amazon uk: amzn.to/3woJVZS Or amazon USA and others: amzn.to/3Pb4UrM Here is the freelander driveshaft, lots on Amazon uk: amzn.to/3FzD7wK And Amazon USA and others: amzn.to/39VfMtJ
Hi how am I supposed to attempt to fix it if the door won't open ? I hearvthe microswitch and I hear the solenoid jumping in the door skin but it will not budge..😮
Did you actually watch the video? I talked about that scenario at the start. Taking the inside door card off while the door is shut sounds difficult but some people have managed that and it’s the only option if the solenoid is working but not opening the door. Try repeated pushing / banging the door to see if it will unstick while pressing the handle repeatedly at the same time, before you go that far though.
@comeinhandynow I did mate door cards off.. banged it with rubber hammer repeatedly & soaked with wd40 between the tail light the boot shut where the latch is I dismantled the handle & micro switch thats ok. Dont know what else I can do I think the latch I siezed. 🙄
First try and run the pump - it could be the capacitor that has failed (replace it) or could be the pressure switch not working (short across it to manually turn on the pump). Failing that I would suggest getting any separate water pump to pump out the tank.
Can anyone help..plse, ?🙏 fuel gauge is kaput, & its stuck on full.!! Can an empty lpg only, tank be part filled, if it runs empty on the road, or at home, in order to get to a garage, or is it a tow truck only, scenario.????
If it’s indicating full but it is actually empty then the float level sensor inside the tank is stuck. It can be removed and fixed by the 4 bolts/screws on the tank but you have to be sure that the tank is empty. Keep running the vehicle until it wont run on lpg anymore. Disconnect the pipe and power up the solenoid valve to open the gas to outside air, in order to empty the remains. Be outside with lots of ventilation. You can’t easily refill the tank away from a filling station, but you should still have the ability to run on petrol instead. Press the selector button to switch back from lpg to petrol.
Wow. This is so great. I left our key fob in another country while on vacation we got back to the airport where our car was parked at the hotel and we didn't have the key. A locksmith charged us $375 to program a new key and we had to spend the night at a hotel until he could do it the next day. We have been home for 2 weeks and my wife left this key in her pocket in the laundry and we are going out of town today. We only have one key. I saw this video and my wife went to workout she came back and we followed the video. She was confused as to why I was using WD-40. I did everything and went out to the car and praise God it worked! Thank you so much for your video.
Thanks for the tutorial, though i read somewhere on landyzone that someone with the ronbox had to replace their fuel pump 3 times Has this happened to you yet?
Hello! I replaced the immobilizer twice, the last time I used an emulator to cancel it. Usually, the defect reappears after about 3 weeks. Now that red-faced thief has appeared again, and next to the safety panel there are noises like relays. On the forum I found that the problem could be from CAS. What do you think? Can you give me some advice please?  Hello! I replaced the immobilizer twice, the last time I used an emulator to cancel it. Usually, the defect reappears after about 3 weeks. Now that red-faced thief has appeared again, and next to the safety panel there are noises like relays. On the forum I found that the problem could be from CAS. What do you think? Can you give me some advice please? 
Great Vid. Already bought some splash guards for mine off Ali-Express. Nice trick with the guards. Also fitted the black badge and air ducts. Plus bought some of those Window air deflectors. But they don’t fit. So bought the Climair front ones which are recommended. Noticed the rear Splash guards don’t fill the full width of the tyres on the rears, so still get a bit of dirt spray on the rear of the car.
Test the sensor as shown, then check that your camshaft is actually turning by looking in the hole where it went. The timing belt/chain may have gone or cam snapped.
You could do the off road add ons, but the engine is different. The diesel engine already has a turbo. you could get more power with this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8IIzwjjn0kg.htmlsi=uc2hfKW0UWlg7pw5
Interesting. Most cars have flats on the tie rod ends, but usually not on Stags, so yeah, use Stillsons. Like the bloke below, I was in the Navy, and they seem to hate clunky/huge tools as things get newer and heavy fitting more and more farmed out to contractors, so whenever a depot shuts down/ship pays off, I usually brought home large spanners and stillsons, as everyone said "too big/too old/what will you use THOSE on???" They were only going down with the ship/no one else wanted them, and I could use them, so.......... Steering rack pad lock nut, rear axle bearing preload and locknuts are huge = got the exact size spanners. Anything big on a car, I have something to fit it. And I have bikes as well; recent rebuild of 63 BSA, all the BSW spanners I was issued with/no one wanted = came in very handy. Wheras 74 Trident is more conventional, so just mostly AF spanners. The other day I had to change over a Stag susp strut, (tried some Selby springs) and the ferrule that secures the shock insert laughed at the special tool (tabs into slots). They are ok to do them up when they are clean, but corroded = never come off. But 2 foot stillsons = THEY laugh at it, made it a breeze. Huge fitting tools, gotta love em. When I bought my Stag, I noticed when test driving it, the left side suspension moved slightly, that is the left front wheel moved slightly under heavy braking. I bought it anyway, as I knew I could fix it. Those bushes on mine were the wrong way around. The correct way around = problem fixed, no movement. That was in 1993, and have done 330,000 kms since then, still got it, I will never sell it. . I was posted to Melb, used to drive home to Perth in it at Xmas. 4 weeks leave at home, needed to get around, so........... Then got posted to WA, by then had family in Melb, so did the Perth/Melb return trip as well. All in all 7 return trips, 3500 kms each way, always in summer. Never let me down. From 93 to 2000, was my only car. From 2000 to 2012 it shared daily driving with a Dolomite Sprint, and then I parked up the Sprint (still got it though) and bought a "newish" car for everyday driving (2007 Chrysler); but Stag still gets driven all the time when weather good. The reason I bought the Satg was that I wanted a touring convertible. Cheaper ones were a bit buzzy for long (interstate) trips, and every other touring convertible was just too expensive. Stag was nice to drive, cruised well on long trips, and reasonable price. Had it 31 years....................... still happy with it.