This channel is for die hard Mopar enthusiasts, and all auto enthusiasts interested!
I am a lifelong Mopar fan from Illinois. I am mainly focused on 69-71 Dodge full size models but always have and always will love anything made by Ma Mopar!
On this channel I will cover my builds, new projects/adventures, parts hunting excursions, shows/meets, drag racing and BURNOUTS!
Dude! Awesome save! Great patina, love the wheels. Hope you still have it. I'm always surprised these giant c bodies didn't come standard with power windows. 9 passenger lol!! What a machine
No. I took it to Byron in November of 22 and broke it making my first run. Made 2 more attempts after and 3rd gear had left the building. Luckily I was able to drive the car home on some back roads. It's been parked ever since.
I'm going to look in the upper back of the front seat bench when I redo the front seat to see if the colored one is there. The other two I have are black and white. And I'm simply going to make copies of the originals. And then place them back so they are there. Just for karma
@shipwreckedmopars Trans problems suck man. I feel the same about the plate on my Edelbrock. I did talk to a guy last weekend with a Holley 750 DP and he's running a plate pn both nozzles. He was saying it makes a huge difference.
I just did the shift shaft seal in my driveway with the trans in my truck. Your video was a huge help to see what I was doing before I did it. I did attempt to do it like you did, but couldn’t get any leverage to actually smack a screwdriver or anything into the seal to get it out. I ended up looking for the tool and couldn’t find one locally and didn’t want to pay $50 for one or wait for one. I ended up getting a 3/4” x 2” steel plumbing pipe and welded a nut onto it. Then I cut a barb into the threads of the pipe so that it would catch the rubber lip and thread in. I made it for about $3 and it worked great. Was able to do it with it in the truck and didn’t have to struggle. But dang I can’t imagine doing it without the tool unless the trans was out. Great video.
I have a '72 Plymouth Fury III, 4 door hardtop, 400, 4 barrel, 727, 8.75 rear, cop car wheels with caps, looks like a whiskey runner, it's really an unmarked detectives cop car, despite the gray primer paint, Helluva damn good runnin' Mopar!!! I just subscribed to you guys, y'all are MOPAR C-BODY AWESOME
Didn’t see the install part of the video. Splicing right in behind the switch isn’t the way to go. They can just pop the switch out and rescplice it. Trying to find the video where he shows the path of the ignition wire from the relay in the trunk. That’s a much better location and can’t be easily located and bypassed. I forgot who posted it, so now I have to go through all these videos of people splicing right behind the switch.
I did that headlight relay kit some years ago and it works great for my '68 Fury VIP. I have halogen low beams and the original Canadian General Electric high beams the car left the factory in Canada with. Do the H4 bulbs use less power than the old sealed beams or the halogens?
Its not you Wyatt, I had the same problem with that china junk. I ground off the tabs because they did not clock right in the headlight bucket. Nice job Wyatt. Thanks for the video.
I just did the regular shield beams with the relay conversion.... Hooked it up exactly the way you're supposed to and the freaking high-beam switch is brand new also.... And when you turn the high beams on all the headlights just turn off it doesn't kick over.... The second circuit the thank-you China for some of your crap 🤣
On my 69 Wagon I ran just the Relays with the Old headlamps and it was a big difference just doing that, then upgraded to the H4s and it was even better!!!
