I believe most of them are a the same standard size, but check before you buy to make sure. You should be able to measure the exact dimensions of your counter top opening from below the cook top without having to remove the actual cook top.
ok so this is a question that I have been trying to find out about but im getting so much contradictory info. Does a gas cooktop stove require ventiliation outside the house? From what im seeing here is you removed the ducking and downdraft under the cabinet and installed the new cooktop stove but your not venting the gas at all. I see you do have a top range to vent the smoke and greese up above the cabinet but these are pr imarely used for just smoke, but the gas doesn't need to be vented? In the old days, all of these cooktops had some kind of way to vent the carbon monoxyde and other harmful polutants outside the house.
The two reasons I can think of is 1) a gas cook top doesn't kick out nearly the level of BTU's that a gas water heater or furnace (both of which require exhaust venting) and 2) a gas cook top is considered a "monitored" appliance, which means you are typically present at the appliance while it's in use as opposed to a water heater or furnace.
Wow, I made it back to this video only to find I was the last commenter -- 3 years ago. Replacing a leaky bathroom sink valve. Again without a lot of pvc pipe to work, don't want to cut it. I answered my own question. But having trouble removing the old valve.
You may want to try to reuse the part of the valve that is attached to the pipe by unscrewing the valve from the fitting and screwing a new valve on in its place. The old valve is probably the part that's leaking and it's probably something I should have tried when I fixed this valve.
The wall looks nice. But brick wall is not glued to the main wall, it's not good. I think, you need to use gypsum tiles in the form of bricks, this method is simpler
I didn't just glue the bricks to the drywall, I also mechanically attached them to each stud behind the drywall, at approximately 18" intervals. You can see what I did at the 12.07 mark in the video. Quite a few people miss that part of the video.
@@LeeMcNeil Yes, I saw this. But I didn't see the glue between the bricks and the main wall. Anyway if this wall is standing still, your work is definitely good )
2:00 Biggest issue with this work looks like physical access to the fittings and elbow space to hold two wrenches. I have a tight set-up at home. I would be tempted to "break" that cabinet beam that separates top and bottom. Unless, you are skinny enough to slide your body through the lower cabinet open. An alternative is to "climb down into" the cooktop opening to get access, but you have to be a small person.
It may have looked tight but it was a lot more roomy than working on a car. I probably could have accessed the fitting through the opening in the countertop too, but with the drawers out, there was plenty of room below the cabinet.
I secured it to the counter top. I put straps on the cook top starting at 8.32 in the video and attach the straps to the cabinet at 12.42 in the video.
This is an amazing video. I love this multi use concept, being a pizza and BBQ fan with limited space. I am sorry if these questions have been asked and answered, but you seem to have a lot of comments on here (for good reason.) Has it lived up to your full expectations as a smoker? In hindsight do you think having the box at the back of the smoker would have made for a better airflow throughout the whole chamber, instead of cutting across diagonally? Also, do you use any types of racks or grates for the meats your smoking to envelope them in the smoke? Thank you for this amazing video, and the knowledge you have shared.
Yes, everything still works great, except for the finished colored concrete top that I installed toward the end of the project, is completely falling apart. I'm planning to replace them with granite soon. Other than that, the three biggest things I would change if I did it again would be to make the floor of the oven higher (it's kind of difficult to see into or move things around in the oven without being really bent over), I would turn the opening of the fire box toward the front of the oven instead of pointing out to the side (the fire box location on the side of the oven works fine though), and lastly, I wish I had built myself some additional prep area. The home plate shaped slab of granite works great, but I wish I have two or three times much space on it.
Swapping out your cook top in flip flops, gotta be California . My cook top is not level, someone else installed it . I didn't notice anything about leveling, I'm guessing you already had a nice level platform so didn't have to check it . I enjoyed your video, your floors are killer, thanks for the video.
Hello @melindawallin3713, good guess but not California, I've been a Florida pretty much my whole life. But I'm confused by your question. If you mount a cook top in your kitchen counter, and if your kitchen counter is level, then your cook top will be level. If your counters aren't level, that is another problem, but still one that can be fixed. If you have a free standing range, then there are adjustable legs at the bottom that you can screw in or screw out to level it. Which one of these scenarios would describe your situation?
This car was in an accident - not a really serious one - and it was totaled about 3-4 years ago. But there was no apparent damage to the clear coat up until we got rid of it.
I just measured up from the floor on each end of the wall and struck a chalk line every two feet. Then I checked to make sure my last line was parallel to the ceiling, because the ceiling might not be exactly parallel with the floor. Once I had those lines on the wall, I then laid the bricks on each end of the wall up to the next line and pulled a string tight across at the top of each course to keep them on line.
Not sure where my shut off valve is exactly in this old trailor i have a leak from minersl buildup on my inlet piece and i bought pvc scissor cutters as well maybe i should return to get the thingy u have but i have the knob turned off in the kids bathroom so where else should i look besides turning the water breaker off?? Never had to do this so no idea where to look to turn it off...thanks any advice is appreciated plan on fixing issue tomorrow (Monday)❤👀👍🏻🤝🏻🤔
If you know where your water meter is located, there will very likely be a valve there that will shut the water off to your house. If you don't know where it's located, you can contact your utility company to see if they can tell you where it is.
Great video and thanks for posting. Hope I never have to do this. I'm positive that if I did it this, when I turned the water back on, it would shoot off the pipe into the room and flood my bathroom.
@@user-wu5en9un1o Ordinary cement will work if you have refractory bricks between the fire and the perlite. If you were planning to build the inner dome of the oven completely with perlite concrete, like I have seen on some videos, you should add some fire clay to the cement.
You could put a coupling on the existing stub out, then extend another short piece of pipe to the coupling. You may need to open up the hole in the wall a little to get the coupling on the pipe if the wall opening is tight around the pipe.
As a Gas Engineer I can tell you that you have so many wrongs in this video; distance from the wall/shelf to the hob is wrong, distance to electric cable and the plug to the gas pipe is wrong, you suppose to purge the gas at the right amount after connection. Did you gas rate? No proper tightness test… How about testing safety devices? Did you read the Manufacturer’s Instructions for all of these? On top of all, are you a qualified gas engineer to do all these? Dangerous job! An example video for gas engineering students study for wrongful fitting.
That comment was a lot of complaining about what I did wrong, but said nothing specific, except that I need to be a gas engineer in order to safely install a gas cooktop. Which is hilariously wrong. This kitchen was remodeled 22 years ago. As part of the remodel, the plans showing the location of the cooktop, gas inlet and electrical connections were reviewed and approved by the fire marshal and all other AHJ's (which is an acronym here in the US we use in the construction industry for "Authorities Having Jurisdiction"), and all were inspected and approved during construction. So tell me specifically how you are able to watch a video and know what the distance is between the electrical cable and the gas outlet, or between the cooktop and the wall/shelf behind it? And even if you were correct about these things being too close to each other, why would the fire marshal, plans reviewers and all the other inspectors approve their locations during permitting and construction? And did you really just ask me if I read the installation instructions?
Hi there Lee. Thanks for another video. The smoker I built many years ago got taken to the lake house and I think that is where it will stay so the concept of having a pizza oven and an offset smoker in one is interesting to me. I am curious if you have done a brisket in there and if so, how did you manage the amount of rendered fat? The previously mentioned smoker had a collection system for drippings and I wonder if you did this one again if that is something you would add? Looking forward to your reply. Cheers.
I have smoked a brisket in the oven. What I typically do when I smoke something large in the oven is place the food on an elevated grill grate (something like this amazingribs.com/ratings-reviews/hovergrill/) and then put a pan of hot water below the grate. This pan of water helps stabilize the temperature inside the oven, helps keep the meat from drying out and catches any drips from the meat. Check out my turkey smoking video to see what it looks like in use - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v0nPnXZ9dIY.htmlsi=6ul5OJMM0cL22Qts .
@@LeeMcNeil Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. One more question. Given the involvement of getting the stack centered would you do it again like that or simply bring it to the front as you commonly see built. Don't get me wrong, I do like the look of it but I have to ask the man who built it if it was worth it? Cheers to you friend!
Do NG cook top require a certain regulator ..I was gone order one however it doesn’t specify if it comes w a regulator..if it doesn’t , what regulator would I need
I think most new cooktops come with a new regulator. But if yours didn't come with one, you will have to do some research on your particular cooktop to find out what kind of regulator the manufacturer recommends.
Thank you for prepping the TV cables and power. This is the only way I mount TV's. I am amazed at how many lazy people buy cool 65" TV's and then have the wires dangling down underneath it to their cable box and receptacle. It drives me insane. Do it right!
I can understand doing the wires on the outside of the wall if you have a plain drywall partition and you feel a little lazy, but no way was I going to do all this work to look at a bunch of wires in front of my brick wall. It is not that hard to do.
I really appreciate the video! I am unfortunately having to tear down a historic building from 1880s and salvaging as much of the old brick as possible. This will be HUGE in the new design to maximize the brick for the interior walls.
Thanks for sharing this video. Is there a way to do this without cutting pipe each time? If you prime, would that make it much harder to pull the valve off later or is there a common approach to address that?
The valve comes in two pieces, one is the fitting that glues onto the pipe and it connects to the actual valve at a compression fitting. If your existing valve is leaking at valve piece itself, and the fitting is not leaking, you probably could just install the valve half of a new valve to the existing fitting without cutting the pipe. It's worth a shot. And CPVC doesn't need to be primed before you apply the glue, but it doesn't hurt. You will not be able to take off the glued fitting without cutting the pipe, no matter whether you prime it or not.
Thanks so much for the follow up. In my case, the leak is happening where the pipe itself meets the fitting. Confirming - basically there’s no tool pull it out? We already don’t have much pipe left - what would be our options?
@@bch6707 You might be able to pull a little more pipe out of the wall just a bit, but only if the pipe isn't strapped to a stud near where the pipe penetrates the wall (you are basically bending the pipe inside the wall cavity). There isn't a dedicated tool to pull on the pipe, but I think your fingers would work fine for that. You could use a needle nose vise grip to lightly clamp onto the pipe right at the wall after you pull a bit, which will keep the pipe held in place until you get the new valve installed, then release the vise grip when complete. If you can't pull it out from the wall at all, you will probably need to open up the wall just enough for you to cut the valve off, then install a coupling with a short piece of pipe to extend it.
To add to this, I would go ahead and put the new valve onto the existing fitting and see if that stops the leak. It may not, but it's worth a shot because it will save you some work if it does.
Hello, sorry about the late reply but I have been out of town for a little while. I don't have traditional plans for my oven, but you can download the 3d Sketchup model from the Sketchup 3D warehouse and pull the any dimension in the program, which is free to download. Here is the link - 3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/5db52b162b1389202a362cd9fc7510dd/Igloo-Style-Brick-Wood-Burning-Pizza-Oven-with-Offset-Smoker
Well, if your leak is coming from the valve itself, you could try to just attach a new valve to the existing valve fitting (which I probably could have done here to be honest). If you need to replace the whole valve and you don't have enough room to put a pipe cutter on the pipe, you could try a hack saw blade. If your valve is too close to even do that, unfortunately you will have to cut a hole in the wall. If you have a regular drywall wall, it will be pretty easy to patch. But if you have tile on the wall like I do, you will have to carefully remove a few tiles and save them. I would use a an oscillating multi-tool with a diamond blade to dig the grout lines out and try to work the tool behind the tile to pop it off the wall. Then cut the drywall behind it to extend the pipe, patch the drywall, then reinstall and grout the tiles back into place.
