Jeep resto-modish, rebuilding full size Jeeps, and other stuff automotive and off-road related. Plus: fuel injection, disc brakes, differential gear change and lockers, steering modifications, hydraulic assist steering, budget Jeep and off-road builds. My favorite, wiring…Subscribe so you don't miss the next video!
Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Is it typical for the last retainer clip on the output shaft to have a bit more play in it? I noticed you took a couple extra looks at yours and mine fits a bit looser than the way the other clips on the unit fit up. It shift far enough that it will expose the inside edge of the clip that would normally sit flush against the shaft.
@@cyarn I know if there is to much slop you can have issues with wear and can cause early failure, I seem to see it in the low range shift collar. I look at the snap rings on the main shafts real close ever since I discovered there are some thicker snap rings which won’t fully seat and then come off when shifting in and out of gear. When this happens, it won’t go in 4wd and will eventually cause a real problem.
I noticed you didn’t mention the oil baffle on the pinion, I’m assuming that is part of the pinion depth measurement? Also, how would you go about removing the race to add or remove shims, without destroying the baffle as it is in front of the shims.
Yes it is. Sorry, I didn’t focus a bunch on the baffle, some differentials don’t have them and some do. Unfortunately I usually damage them when I remove the inner race and replace them with new ones on final assembly. Measure and use shims to substitute in place of the baffle until finally assembly then swap the shims out for the baffle.
Great video! Newbie here, if I’m replacing the carrier bearings but reusing original gears, could you use original preload and lash shims? Or would I need to reshim and check everything
I wouldn’t change any shims, reinstall everything the same, new bearings shouldn’t change the preload or backlash if it was set up correctly originally. You don’t want to adjust it due to a wear pattern. I would check the backlash and preload just to be sure and definitely don’t change the depth shims on used gears, that will not change. Don’t try to do a contact pattern either, it won’t read right on used gears.
do you know anything about AAM axles. bought a 2009 ram 2500 HD. the front axle haven't measured them they look to be 1" bigger than my other truck and this axle is a high pinion also
I haven’t done much with the Dodge front AAM, it is basically a Dodge 9.25 converted to a steer axle. They do compete with the Dana 60 ball joint axle but there is not near the parts and upgrade availability as a 60. The unit bearings can be upgrades with a hub kit from Dynatrac along with ball joints. I have met a couple guys that did a complete chassis change on an army truck with 40’s and it is holding up ok.
So you're saying check my pattern and if the pinion needs shimming take out the carrier and re shim the pinion? Yeah big pass, you should be able to set your pinion correctly without installing the carrier
You can do them mathematically but if the pattern is off, yes, you have to remove the carrier and adjust the shims on the pinion, except for third member type differentials, like 14 bolt and 9”, those you just remove the pinion support.
Hello, thanks a ton for doing this video. I am running a dana 60 in my pro street 69 camaro. I rebuilt that rear end, and I did damn near the same way you did yours. Great work.
Can you rebuild mine ? I need the exact same thing done to mine it’s a passenger side drop 1990 suburban 241c and the shops here local keep telling me it cannot be done. I can ship it to you.
There's a lot of advantages to "old school" , power steering. I like hydro -boost steering. Really good for big cams. 😁 I like the LS sticker, and that huge alternator to. That sticker drives LS haters crazy, LOL.
I'm going to make a container out of a leaky Jerry can just like you did and buy a second gas can mount for it. That was a very creative idea you had there!
Was wanting your input I'm still working on the 67 m715 I have a T98 trans but it has the divorce transfer Case and the T18 has the transfer Case attached but it didn't have the Bell housing and it has the long pilot shaft which is the best way to go changing out the pilot shaft for a short one or go with the spacer the engine and Bell housing I have is a ford inline 300 6 also would you have or could you let me know what the transmission are worth the T18 has the 1.632 1st gear thank you and congrats on 1000
I would definitely go with the married transfer case and T-18, they will handle higher speeds without overheating and vibrating. As far as the pilot shaft, my first choice would be the one that lines up best with the tunnel for the shifter, if that won’t make a difference, I would be more likely to go with the easy button which would probably be the spacer. The other consideration for me is parts availability, off the shelf, incase you need to do repairs in the future. Since you are going with a Ford 300 engine, you should be able to buy direct bolt in factory parts for this transmission, the T-18 came in a bunch of Ford trucks.
Awesome! I’m glad I found your channel. Not a lot of content on the tube for fsj. I personally have a 63 j200 thriftside I’m going to restore . And a 65 wagoneer 327. I look forward to getting to know your channel.
Nice video man, i have a 76 j10 i got like 8 months ago spent about 4 months last summer/fall getting it repaired and running before winter, now that its warming up.. Im hoping if i refill the a/c on it will get it to work. The fan and blower works, but the compressor hasnt been on in about 20 years. My 90 Grand wagoneers came to life when i poped a can of r12 in it, but its got a buldging hose that i clamped down with butaline hose over top to try and help the buldge from getting worse. The a/c worked for about 4 years until the compressor blew up. I took the risk and replaced the compressor only. Thankfully my system has shut off valves to keep the system locked away when you replace the compressor itself. I know i ran a risk of metal being in the system and hurting the new compressor, and so forth but i got lucky and its been working fine since I didnt want to waste the r12 i had in there, hooked it all up and put another can of r12 in and its been fine for 4 more years, although this year i gatta put another can in to get it cold again. seems to need 1 every 4 years or so. Im not converting to 134A if i can just put a 30$ can in every few years
i think i mentioned to you am building a off road recovery vehicle i am using a 2009 ram 2500 HD chassis of course 4wd the cab i am not sure will either be like a older 1994 cab or a 1950 dodge not sure yet but will be building custom dash where do i start looking for underdash unit for cooling and heating will use the stock mopar condensor and compressor and high and low switches and orfice tube. the 2009 unit has a condensor with its own fan with schroud don't understand why off roaders don't use those units for off road.
I don’t know, I look for fit and function. I am sure heat is a big part for off-roading but how compact some systems fit is probably a large part as well.
Thanks, you have to think out of the box when working on stuff without parts availability. Just a side note, you can use Weber BBQ grill metal for the front lowers if you need them, I didn't on mine, I was able to fix the originals.
Weber BBQ?? 😮😮 Man, that is waaaaay outside the box. Hahahaa! Luckily, I've got a pair that are salvageable for my FC170 dump truck restomod. Not looking for show quality lines here either.
I really appreciate your attention to detail and thoughtful planning. Too many of these are built poorly because the owner either takes shortcuts or doesn't spend the money/time to do it right.
Thanks, as much as I try to pay attention to what I am doing, things still happen and it doesn’t alway work out like I want it. I guess that’s just part of the gig. Thanks for the compliment.
Currently working on my 1960 FC170 resto/mod. I see your red 170 has a decent stance to it. Did you relocate the spring mounts. rearch your springs or use something else? If you did relocate your spring mounts would you mind posting a quick video of how you did it? Thanks!
I did not relocate the spring mounts on the frame, I did flip the rear shackle, replace the top two springs with longer springs so the geometry would be correct. I re-arched the top 3 springs in the rear. The fronts, I just changed the pack a little bit, added a leaf and moved the springs to the top of the axle instead of under the axle. I am running full width axles on the Jeep, the rear is a 95 F350 Sterling and the front is a 81 K20 Suburban.
Excellent as usual! Remember those older GM 10 bolts? As soon as you removed the axles the carrier would just about fall out. They seemed to have no preload from the factory, LOL. Forty to go........😀
Love the video, one problem. I need to replace the bushing and seal on my 99 (classic) output tail housing. I pulled this up hoping you would replace the bushing and I could see what tools I’d need to knock out the old bushing and tap in the new one. Any chance you can tell me?
If you remove the tail housing, I use an aluminum bushing driver. I have a Bluepoint set but you can buy them from Harbor freight pretty cheap. In a pinch, I have used a socket the right size and have also used a punch. With the tail housing on the truck, I have used seal pullers for the seal and a hooked slide hammer to get the bushing out (not fun, better to remove the housing). The output seals and bushings are pretty easy, the captured roller bearings are the ones that suck to get out.
