My Home Garage is about helping people do their own work at home with confidence. Showing you step by step videos with information and tools required to complete tasks. I will recommend tools, parts and service I believe are required using my 20 years of automotive knowledge as a Licensed Automotive Technician. At the same time I understand the limitations of working from home with limited tools and service equipment. Most, if not all of the vehicles you see are in my fleet of personal as well as vehicles I've been maintaining for years. You can count on me for weekly content because something is always in need of repair.
I used to berate Honda for using timing belts 20 years ago. Figured a chain would last forever. Boy I'll take a timing belt replacement over this any day. I'm done with Honda. Loyal customer for 30 years.
i noticed the shudder at low speeds (thought it was the 8 zf trans at first) and then it started "slipping" when accelerating at 70-80 mph. during wide open throttle it would buckle/shudder as the car reaches peak hp and torque. it almost felt like a misfire but i figured a CEL would be thrown or a fault code stored. car is fault free. I scheduled for transfer case fluid exchange and front/rear diff fluid this week. this was done about 60k miles ago on my f31 328i xdrive car. it's interesting you mentioned honda as well because as far as I know bmw referenced honda/acura AWD systems when creating xdrive. i'm guessing the cars have similar limitations which require the diffs to be serviced around 50k - 60k miles. the 1% variance between tire/wheel diameters is true with AWD; incorrect tire pressures and worn tread can lead to issues. i'll have to ask the shop to clear the adaptations for the transfer case too. great video!
Both my low beams went out and i tried to replace all kinds of things but its still not working.... bulbs, electronic, fuses, even the light switch..... anything you can help with ?
You need a scanner to confirm things are working properly and the module is sending signal out. And you use a test light to confirm. You need smhmatics
You have to do it twice for better results. Let the first fluid change cycle through for a week or two, then change it again. Also, reset the transmission's electronics by pushing the start button without cranking the engine... floor the accelerator for 30 seconds, release and push the starter button off. Then start the car.
Hey man my mom has a 2012 RAV4 and had the po137 code I started with a new oxygen sensor and that did not fix it I replaced the exhaust manifold / catalytic converter unit and that did not solve it either. What can I do next
Number 1 item using original Toyota parts or equivalent. Making sure the wiring is ok. Aftermarket crappy sensors are crap. Denso I believe is original sensor. If it’s not a denso . Start there
Just changed the t-case , diffs and tranny fluids yesterday on my '21 G05 with 88k miles. Back to smooth shifts, no hesitation. I strongly encourage everyone to do the same, its worth the money and effort.
This is a great video. Thank you for putting this out. I am getting ready to do this on my 2012 CRV. I like the way you went through every step and showed everything so well. Thank you again. GREAT VIDEO!
What size of hose do use to get to the bottom of the case? I cannot get the 5/16” hose down inside the case to extract fluid out? Do you reuse the bolt or replace new one?
Great video I have struggled with this issue for months on end, is the N20 and N55 pump the same? Mine is an N55 and would you recommend doing an engine flush when changing the oil?
i have a quattro automatic transmission, would the front fluid change be the same? also the front differential and the transmission share the same fluid?
Thanks for making this video. I just did this a few weeks ago to my 2019 X5. I too didn't notice the issue at the dealer. They mounted two new front tires on it before we took delivery and not long later we noticed the shuddering. Seems like this is the case for a lot of people! For me, changing the fluid with this procedure resolved the issue by roughly 90%. The shudder was very noticeable before, and now it's almost imperceptible. I too plan to change the oil again after a few thousand miles. Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you.
Been about the same. I really need to get on it hard to even feel anything but it is barely noticeable. All slow speed stuff is gone. Even while turning. I also believe the tires something with the diameter change.
@@MyHomeGarage the tires they put in the back of my car were substantially different in diameter to the old ones on the front. If I recall correctly the diameter was different by 0.75" or so.
Ive noticed While searching the prices vary dramatically. Are they all different for diesel cayannes ? Fcp euro rcomended? Their prices are high 2013 model i have.
Dude, thanks for a super informative video. Every detail covered. I have the exact issue with my 2019 X5 . Bought it a month ago, all seemed well. It needed 2 front tyres as they wore unevenly. Last owner probably didn't have alignment done. So I replaced the fronts Only ! rears had some thread left. Big mistake. Transfer case started jerking badly. Rear tyres replaced 2 wks later. Problem still not gone & I've to wait 2 wks for my mechanic (new baby). I'm hoping a fluid change (or 2) and ISTA recalibration will fix the problem like your video. Is it possible I've damaged the Transfer case ?
I personally don’t believe so. I believe when you changed tires. The transfer case calibration got messed up and then it was trying to learn the difference in tread then you changed tires again and it’s trying to further adjust. I’m almost thinking when someone’s changed tires. Adaptations should be reset. Mine is at 45000 kms and the transfer case was acting up. When I bought it and drove it felt nothing then they replaced rear tires and I felt it. Difference from front tires to rear is only 2/32 ( fronts were 7/32 and new rears ones were 9/32).
@MyHomeGarage I totally agree with you. It drove fine on the old tyres. Problems started with the front 2 replaced and then the rears compounded the issue. Hard to believe all it needs is nice new fluid and a recalibration. It's so annoying when it slips & jerks. You reckon mild driving for 2 weeks will be ok..? Are the clutches slipping? Will I wreck it before he looks at it?
@@theguyfromdrive4811 no worries. Keep us updated. I’m curious. Eventually a rebuild kit will come out. The only real issue is the clutch’s why are people replacing the whole case
Thank you for a great video. I used this video as a guide when doing the same thing on my Passat B7 4motion. I can now confirm that it is possible to do this with the car on jack stands, outside on the driveway. However I would not recommend it… 😂 Took me up towards 30 hours spread out over 3 days to do it all. Though I had to fight a lot with rust everywhere since I live in Sweden, with salt on the roads 5 months per year. 😅
The PCV valve for a 1998 Honda Accord V6 is $65.00 from a local BC Honda Dealer. I do agree it should be changed even though it uses negligible amounts of oil. Very good video!
Couple questions. Do your 3.0L tdi engines rattle at start up? Any other engine flushes recomended besides the luquid moly? Is there an obd monitor that will work with porsche diesel mainly wish to keep an eye on pre turbo egts? Have a little rattle at start ups 2-3 seconds not always. thank you your videos are excelent
Thanks brother. The cayenne no ratttle, the Touareg rattles all the time. I got a video soon about it l. I have a theory as to the cause for the rattle.
This is awesome. Thank you. You should have blown some compressed air through the drain pipe while the roof was lifted. Dealership charged me $1500 to do that as water was leaking in to the cabin.
I agree they were clean. I’ll do a separate video on it. The actually outlet of the drains are what get clogged more then anything. With debris you can access those easily in seconds
Year/make/model When you turn on the a/c button does it light up green? When your turn ac on do the 2 fan turn on or do they get louder. Can be done with vehicle off key on? If yes then, turn on vehicle with ac on, does the coil/clutch on end of compressor spin or is it still? If it is still then either ac compressor clutch relay is faulty and or compressor clutch and or coil is bad. Only other variable if the clutch is spinning and no cold air is a low charge condition in ac system. Enough to turn system on but not activate. If you think system is empty unscrew the plastic cap on ac line and just depress the valve to see if there is pressure like a bike tire or car. Good indication without garages.? There are ways to by pass these to confirm fault coil or clutch or relay do those checks first.
@@andymatthews7118 just some rtv. Because bmw redid install procedure with a update to apply a special urethane. I decided I wasn’t going to use something permanent
Man, tell me you have friends. If yes, one of them can hold the camera. It made my head spin trying to keep up to where you were pointing. You have the knowledge clearly but need to remake the video.
Lol, amazing. Me and my brother in law just died reading this comment. I’m trying brother something I just rush because I have a life and family and kids outside RU-vid. Lol
BMW likes to force customers into stealerships by making DIY servicing as difficult as possible. You almost have to do open-heart surgery on the car just to change a headlight bulb.
You don't have to remove the centre console to reconnect the hand brake cables. Instead: 1) Only remove the ash tray at the back of the console 2) Reach into the tunnel and connect the left cable to the balancer hook 3) Use a piece of wire or a rope and loop it around the right hook so you can apply a backwards pulling force. 4) Use a 4mm flat blade fist screwdriver and whilst pulling the rope carefully push it into the slit between the hooks (tilt the screwdriver slightly forward). This disengages the hooks and makes them want to snap forward (internally spring loaded), but the rope will pull the right hook backwards (use as much force as you can). 5) Release the screwdriver; this will fix the hooks in place; remove the rope. 6) Now, as the right hook is pulled all the way backwards, you can attach the right cable. 7) Use the small screwdriver again to make the hooks snap forward. This will pre-tension the cables. From here on, apply the usual handbrake cable adjustment procedure. It sounds more complicated than it is, once you get your head around the mechanics of it 🙂
@@MyHomeGarage my kids and I need my Honda Fit AC fixed with this heat wave in Ottawa! This looks a bit beyond my abilities. I got my lines replaced years ago and it didn’t do anything. Do you know of any places across Ontario that can do an honest diagnosis?
I'm sure this is a good tutorial, and I'm interested in it as I own a G05, but waving the camera around like that makes me want to throw up and I simply can't watch the video.
I appreciate that. I had to change it. Had no one to help me. Life is busy. It truly is sooo easy brother. 6 screws and peeling back a seal. Mark the bracket before loosening it. The new seals go in and out in under a minute. Put some rtv so they don’t shrink like the olds ones and your done I didn’t even remove it off the roof of the car. To be honest I have some house problems that need my attention more then RU-vid and cars. Or I would have put more effort I just simply needed them change asap we have so much rain lately. Sorry it didn’t help you brother.
Email me if you need any help with it. I’ll answer any questions. I feel bad about video. Even while editing it. I just have so little time every feel minute I try and do what needs doing.
I have a C7 A6 3.0 TDI and am facing a similar job. Thanks for posting the video as I have a good idea of what I'm now faced with. Did you remove the drivers side fuel lines to the injectors as well?
@@MyHomeGarage just faced it. Wow. I was slow with my exploration i actually had to remove the manifold twice as I dropped the rear inside left bolt into the abyss. My car now has a lot more pickup as I removed a lot of the soot. I actually had all the parts except the o-ring on the part that everyone breaks... had to reuse that, thank god for o-ring grease and loktite 3258z
Did this on a 2013 crv a month ago for my co-worker. We did a full timing refresh with water pump and vtc.. That VTC main bolt was one of the toughest bolts I've dealt with on a Honda.
this vehicle is a pain in the a** the fricking injector rail is under the frickin manifold. had this issue with a 09 and cyl 5 in the back, what a fricking nightnare.! 5 weeks and still isnt right. WATCH your WIRES, they are brittle and you wil F them up moving them to change your plugs! then youll have njector issues and fricking fuel comming out of your exhaust.
Have the same intermittent problem cylinder 4 misfire I replaced wires , plugs, and coil pack so far the verdict is still out ? Im almost 90% certain if it comes back its an injecter and or associated wiring? Its very infrequent so much you can put 8k on the car and its fine only to do it again ? Its not a pushrod issue in my situation.
