This is where you can follow my journey back into the world of model railways after a break of over 35 years.
My layout is called Shelfington, which was a name chosen when I returned to the hobby in early 2022, when I intended to build a small shunting puzzle on a shelf. As of early 2023, Shelfington occupies over half of my home office, with plans to expand further.
As Shelfington now occupies rather more space than your average shelf, I had thought of changing the name, but as I rather liked it, I decided to stick with it!
I try and upload on a weekly basis, at the regular time of 9pm Thursday evening, UK time.
The majority of my videos cover the progress of building Shelfington, but they can also include loco reviews, hints and tips and building stuff, from kits to baseboards.
Hopefully you'll find something useful and enjoyable to watch and will join me on my journey as I rekindle my enjoyment of the hobby.
Hi Bob! Thanks! The main reason is that card is cheap, available, and my Cricut machine will cut it! If I had a laser cutting machine I probably would have gone with 2mm plywood or MDF! I don't have a 3D printer, but that would have been a possibility too! I'm not sure how moisture will get to them, other than when ballasting, although may varnish them as a precaution! Cheers, Ian.
@@bobfuller - Ah! Thanks! That's interesting! I didn't know that! Do you know what blade you need to cut it? No, the layout is in a bedroom that's centrally heated, so hopefully won't be too damp! :)
Evening Ian - Good old RU-vid never sent a notification to say you had uploaded - hence my tardiness 😊. Very well designed bit of kit and an ingenious little hack to remove a servo if needed. 😊 cheers Euan
Good evening Euan! Yeah, RU-vid has been acting weird recently! I've made comments that have simply disappeared, and have had a few people mention that they'd missed video notifications! Hopefully they'll sort it out sooner rather than later! Anyway, better late than never! :) Thank you! I think I've finalised the design today, and will be testing it out tomorrow! It should be in my next update of The Tricky Bit! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Ian,Just a quick thought,to stop the edges of your enclosures from fraying,especially the pull out section,a smear of superglue on the exposed edges will stop that happening.Not my idea,came from TONY NORTH EASERN,a few years ago.
Hi Bob! Yes, that's a great idea! In fact I've done something similar when I was making my "Tracksetta" type templates out of greyboard! It's a really effective way of making them last longer! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Jonathan! Thank you! Yes, it wasn't until I tried to remove the servo motor as part of the Tricky Bit installation that I realised the motor would be trapped! I'd thought that it would slide out easily from below the push rod, so it was good to have discovered the problem early on! I still haven't completely nailed the design yet, but I'm getting there! All the best, Ian.
Thanks Chris! Yes, I'm now on the fourth version of this new design, with a fifth one in the works! It certainly keeps you busy this railway modelling lark! Cheers, Ian.
I've just realised that I didn't comment when I saw this earlier. The redesign looks to have solved some problems and the cricut cutter really is a very useful bit of kit. I was going to ask how you were going to protect and disguise the servos partly prompted by Paul's point about the ballast. Plainly you won't need to ballast in the off scene servos or disguise them. I've now also seen John's comment and your reply. The glue/water mix spreads through capillary action given how much you have to douse the ballast and if a servo and or box is near, it will make a bee line for it no doubt guided by a mischievous modelling God. I think you would have leave out the T section at least until everything had dried otherwise it will be glued in, but I am not sure how you will project the servo from getting gummed up if it is in place. Stephen
Hi Stephen! I watch the majority of videos on my TV, and am always forgetting to comment when I'm next at the computer, so you're not alone! I'm pretty pleased with the new design, and definitely wouldn't be attempting it without the Cricut machine! I'd not considered ballasting until Paul mentioned it, so I gave it some thought in the pub yesterday!!! Removing the T-piece will be a first step to avoiding disaster, but I think I'll be okay with the servo, as with the 40mm and 60mm boxes, the servo won't be at the bottom, otherwise it will be hidden! As a final resort, I could ballast without the servo in place! I think I'll perform an experiment before I commit to it on the layout though! Cheers, Ian.
Me and my son love your videos. We're currently on a family holiday in Japan but have taken the time to watch your latest release. Keep up the good work.
Hi Ian. You mentioned that the new design of enclosure needs to be assembled in a particular order. You may still be blessed with a good memory, but maybe you could add text to the pieces before cutting them out indication the order of assembly? This would possibly assist if you were ever to offer your design to others.
Hi Paul! That's an interesting idea, and would certainly help me remember, especially if it had been a while since I'd built one! Once I've perfected the design, I'll probably upload the SVG files to my website and link to them should anyone else want to build them! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Ian, good re-design and I think your friend Jules deserves a pint for coming up with such a simple effective solution. I have read however Paul’s comment below regarding when you come to ballast and another solution may need to be found for what could become another problem. It’s tough life building a model railway, lol!!!! Watch out for another video from me Ian, work has been ongoing at Exehaven!!!! Having said that I’ve also started re-painting the cabin which I will need to finish when I get back from Australia! Cheers for now mate, John
Good morning John! Haha! Yes, I should get Jules a beer - but only if he reads this comment! Lol! Yes, Paul makes a good point that I'd not thought of, so I'll have to be extra careful while ballasting and scenicing! I can always make the removable T-piece shorter, or remove it while working around it! Although thinking about it as I type this, the servo motor itself would be vulnerable to getting stuck too! Hmm! Problems, problems! Okay, I'll lookout for your next update, and look forward to seeing what you've been up to - as well as seeing a freshly painted cabin when you've completed your jet-setting summer! All the best mate, Ian.
Thanks very much! Yes, I've tried to make the parts as asymmetrical as possible, but will try harder! The main problem is with trying to maintain a decent size for the tabs, with good spacing, so that a good amount of glue can be applied to make the joints stronger! This restricts where they can be placed! To be honest, it's not a huge problem, as long as I concentrate while building them! :) All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, a very smart solution to your issue. I guess one thing you need to consider in the next version is not to make it too tight in the diection used to slide it in and out. What blade and material setting are you using on the Cricut? All the best!
Thanks very much John! I won't be changing the dimensions of the enclosure box, but will move the position of the T-piece closer towards the servo, which gives a little more wiggle room and keeps the servo tightly constrained! I've already created a couple of versions, and a 1mm adjustment seems to do the trick! I'm using the Knife Blade in the Cricut machine, and use the "Heavy Chipboard - 2mm" setting for the material, which is 2mm greyboard! In the UK, chipboard is a very different material made up of wood chips, but in the US it seems to be the same as greyboard! Cheers, Ian.
Greetings, Shelfington, and hello Ian 👋 You make that Cricut sing just like Buddy Holly 😉 I wonder if the removable T Section might be a magnet 🧲 for scenic cement or PVA from ballasting 🤔 water will find low points 🕳 and it might not be so removable later on 🤕 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
Good morning Paul and hello Wickford! Haha! The Cricut machine does make some rather odd noises at times! :) Hmm! Never thought about the removable T-piece getting trapped! I could make it a bit shorter, so it doesn't touch the bottom - or remove it while I'm ballasting / scenicing (is that a word) to mitigate the risk! Sounds like grounds for another experiment! Thanks! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, Just come across your site. I am right at the start of building my layout and learning as I go. There is very little on N Gauge on the web and was interested in how you fitted a DCC Decoder - seems straightforward enough! I was very interested to see you had made a gradient on your layout, something I wanted to do but couldn't find anything about how to go about it. I will look back at your previous videos to see if you have covered making a gradient but in the meantime - did you make the blocks yourself and if so how and what with? If you bought them where from and roughly how much? Last question - how long a length do you need to make a gradient in N Gauge? Thanks
Hi Adrian! Welcome aboard! :) I've always found fitting decoders pretty straightforward - but getting into the locos to fit them can be a right royal pain!!! The instructions are generally terrible, which is why I produce a video every time I fit a decoder! The gradients are made by Woodland Scenics, and come in various grades, from 2% up to 4% I think! For N gauge I wouldn't go any steeper than 3% though, especially if you're planning on using them on curves! They can be bought from most good model shops, online or otherwise, and I even think Amazon sells them! The length depends on how high you want to go! My 3% sections raise the track 30mm, so you'll need two lengths to raise it 60mm, and three for 90mm etc... Obviously, the steeper the gradient, the faster you can get the track to rise, but locos, especially steam locos, will struggle with steep gradients! I think I cover straight and curved inclines in videos 24, 54, 55 and 56! It's also probably worth checking out the comments on those videos too, as there's usually a load of good information in there! Good luck with your project! All the best, Ian.
Thanks for all that on gradients. I have spent a few hours playing with AutoCAD and AnyRail to see if I could fit a gradient to give a 3D type view but have come to the conclusion that I can't fit one in. Shame really but unless I completely re-designed the layout it is impossible - unless you know a locomotive that will climb a 20-30 degree incline!!! Keep up the good work.
I think this neatly illustrates a problem with N gauge in general, the locos are usually geared for excessive high speeds at the expense of slow running. Even an HST looks silly wizzing around the layout pulling the G's of a Eurofighter rounds the bends.
Hi! I don't think it's exclusively an N gauge problem as I've seen plenty of OO gauge locos doing a fair impression of a Eurofighter! :) I think a lot of the speed issues come from manufacturers not gearing their locos correctly, and assuming that the end user will sort out any issues by modifying CV values to get more realistic running! The Hunslet and the Farish 08 are probably the only two locos I've got that perform realistically in that respect straight out of the box! I saw a video recently, I think it was from Jonathan at Endoor, where he profiled the speeds of some of his HST's with surprising results, so it may be worth a watch! Thanks very much for your comment! All the best, Ian.
@@iansngauge The problem is more pronounced in N gauge though due the fact you want slower running due to the smaller scale. Also, reprogamming CV values does not compensate for the lack of torque you get due to the high gearing. The tiny motors used in N will naturally struggle more when overloaded due to being asked to pull heavy loads at slow speed due to this factor primarilly.
@@cyborgbadger1015 - Perhaps it's more pronounced! Not convinced that the smaller motors are an issue, as the stock weighs much less! Gearing is definitely an issue though, and I agree that problems can only be partially mitigated by modifying speed and momentum curves using CV values! Cheers, Ian.
Not sure how I missed this and more videos of you (I blame RU-vid). Great update, while doing the wiring for my layout I came to a startling conclusion. I probably won't have the room for all the digital components (the detectors, servo drives etc) once I have all the wiring in place.😅 So I've stopped wiring while pondering this conundrum and the best way to solve this. Which probably will consist of some boards attached with hinges and held up with magnets or something on which to place all that equipment. I really had not expected that the dropper wires, servos and all the wires that will be necessary would take up so much space.😂
Haha! Yes, RU-vid is annoying sometimes! I remember thinking Tony North Eastern had left, but somehow I'd become unsubscribed from his channel and had missed over six months worth of videos! I'm still catching up now! Also, when I comment on some videos, my comment never shows up for some reason! Oh well! Anyway, thank you! I have to agree, the more I delve into servo control, block detection and dropper wires, the more I wonder how I'm going to fit all of the wires beneath the layout! It's one of the reasons I'm not going with a traditional control panel, and will control everything via DCC! I'm going to go down a similar route as you, and have started collecting offcuts of plywood to hang from hooks / velcro / magnets / whatever and I'll attach my various electronic modules to them! I can then work on them away from the layout, and hopefully will just need to attach a main feed wire from whatever bus to power everything! Does that make sense? Oh, you'll be pleased to know that I've updated my DR5000, which was the subject of my latest video - but did the upgrade go smoothly? :) Cheers, Ian.
Thank you Jason! Haha! Yes, still rocking all of my digits! I'm currently in the process of redesigning the enclosure boxes to make it easier to remove the servo should it fail! There should be a video out in the next week or two! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Peter! The Megapoints controllers look really good, especially the new versions that support wireless setup! I'm not really confident enough with my soldering or electronic skills, so I've never got into MERG products, but I've heard good things about them! I think I'm going to go down the ESU SwitchPilot Servo route as they seem very easy to setup! All the best, Ian.
Thanks very much Pete! It really was quite simple to upgrade given the quality of the instructions! If only all instruction manuals in the hobby were so comprehensive! Cheers, Ian.
Good evening Paul! Ah, yes! The 33 does some sterling work for me! It's great to be wireless again! I'm sick of tripping over the PowerCab's cable and dragging the handset onto the floor! Cheers, Ian.
Hello Ian, I'm quite impressed you can sort out the electronics. This is beyond my luddite tendancies! I can't even log on at work this morning. How sad!
Morning Simon! The instructions were definitely a big help here! If only loco manufacturers would produce manuals with such clear and comprehensive details! Of course, being a software engineer the software / firmware stuff was second nature, but dealing with electronics always brings me out in a cold sweat! Lol! Hope you've got logged in by now! :) All the best, Ian.
@@iansngauge That would be a help Ian. I can barely work a phone. Not logged in yet (how sad) but reported. I'm a low priority case class 4. Which means they probably wont call me until monday. Shame with The Open being on TV.........
Best thing about being self-employed (or more accurately retired) is not having to worry about such things! Currently enjoying the Snooker from Shanghai! :)
Hi Ian, I bet you’re pleased that worked. Looked a little complicated although I got the gist and quite pleased that I use the straight forward (for me anyway) Z21 black, which has been and is a great bit of kit. Good to see the class 33 taking on the tekkie duties, not sure any of your other loco’s could’ve coped with that! 😁 I’ve done a little bit to my layout this week and have continued with the Scalescenes cargo ship but my re-pointing of my paving has taken forever 🙄, but I’ve just about finished it! I was hoping to go to the Chatham show this weekend but sadly I can’t make it. Cheers for now Ian, John
Good morning John! Yes, I'm extremely pleased with the outcome as I'd been a bit apprehensive about undertaking the upgrade! I was helped by the excellent instructions, which was a new experience for me with this hobby! Clear and comprehensive instructions? Who'd have thought!!! Lol! I always send the 33 into action in tough times, and it always seems to come through for me! :) I looked at the Z21 when I was first starting out, and may even end up with one when the DR5000 / YD7001 eventually dies as I like the Roco throttles! Looking forward to seeing your shipbuilding progress! Sorry you can't make it to Chatham show, the local shows can be as good as the big ones I've found! My big news is that I've finally sold dad's house, which had been on the market for nearly a year! All the best mate, Ian.
Hi Frank! Thanks for your kind words! I'm a software engineer too, and have a dread of electronics, but the instructions for this upgrade were very comprehensive and easy to follow! I'm sure you'd have been able to achieve the same as me! All the best, Ian.
Thanks very much Colin! Indeed, I looked like a Cheshire cat when the 33 began to move when I increased the speed on the WiFi throttle for the first time! In fact I'm still grinning about it now! :)) Cheers, Ian.
Struth - £60 for an old ESP32D module on a brake out board - Most electronic suppliers list these and their newer 32E variant for less than a fiver... The PCB would cost pence to make in China, so even if it sold it for £10 they would be making 100% profit...Ian you've been mugged mate !
Hi Malcolm! Hmm! Well that's not strictly true is it? It's £60 for the microcontroller, the software running on the microcontroller, the software running on the PC, the device drivers to get everything to talk to each other, and the wherewithal to bring it all together! I think it's excellent value for money, and a whole lot cheaper than binning my DR5000 and buying a different command station - which may be based on a similar microcontroller!!! Cheers, Ian.
Hello Ian, I've been waiting for this video to happen! ( I also have a DR5000, but no issues as yet). Great walk through on the process of replacing the wifi unit and upgrading. What I found interesting is that you mentioned the wifi module can be set up for different protocols, so I may do the upgrade anyway as I'm interested in maybe using the withrottle protocol. Cheers. John
Hi John! Sorry to keep you waiting! I have to applaud the instructions, which were way better than the usual sort of thing you get in this hobby! Yes, as you know, the DR5000 supports different protocols, but it's a case of choosing one and sticking with it! With this new WiFi module you can mix and match, having several protocols active simultaneously! I've not tried this, as I only have Z21 enabled hardware, but it's a selling point of the module, so it must work!!! Good luck if you decide to upgrade! All the best, Ian.
Good job. Must admit when you said about the replacement, I thought it would be a soldering nightmare. So when the module popped out / in just like a DCC decoder it made the job so easy and manageable. So glad the unit is back up and running, you must be quite relieved. I use the original Z21, and its brilliant.
Hi John! Thank you! Haha! Yes, I wondered whether there'd be any soldering involved when I initially purchased the module, but the excellent instructions put my mind at ease! I'm well pleased that I've got the controller running again, and better than ever with all of the options it gives me! I looked at the Z21 originally, and may still get one when the DR5000 / YD7001 eventually dies as I like the Roco throttles! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, great to see you've got your wifi control not only back in action but with improved options for the future! Looks like it was quite an involved process, but at least there was comprehensive documentation :)
Good morning Jonathan! Yes! It's great to have the Roco Z21 wireless throttle back in action with the DR5000, sorry, YD7001! The instructions looked quite daunting the first couple of times I read through them, but, for a change, they were clear, and easy to understand! Needless to say that I'm very pleased with the results! Cheers, Ian.
So grateful for this video as I had fitted my decoder upside down and couldn't work out the problem until I saw your visuals. Many thanks. Your model seems slightly different in that mine has 3 forward lights and yours has just 2. Mine is a 371-167TL BR Rail-freight Red Strip Teeside region exclusive but I assume the internals are the same.
Thank you! I'm very pleased the video was of use to you! I think Farish have quite a few variations on the class 37 - as there are quite a few variations in real life - although all of the ones I've seen seem to be based on the same chassis / motor design! All the best, Ian.
Great review, Ian. Would it be worth returning the model to Dapol? No matter the cost, we shouldn't have to deal with these constant running issues. Thanks Ian.
Thanks Nigel! Sorry for the late reply, but your comment has only just popped up in my comments feed! I think if I'd experienced the running problems from day one then I may very well have returned the model to Dapol! However, it's ran find for about six months, so I'd like to investigate the cause myself! I agree though, these aren't complicated mechanisms, and should just work, so I blame shoddy quality assurance methods for the majority of running issues straight out of the box! Cheers, Ian.
Hi, Ian, I have just built my first layout and I think that the Pullman would be the ideal train for my setup. What steam locomotive would you suggest that i get to go with the Pullman carriages. Regards Brian
Hi Ian, Top draw review once again, the content of the review is spot on! Its a real shame about the issues your having with a new RR loco and the DCC decoder in the cab is not good to see. Cheers Gary
Good morning Gary! Thank you! To be fair, the loco ran straight out of the box, and continued to run well until about a month ago, when it suddenly started stuttering and stopping! It's why I like to wait a few months before reviewing a loco, to give some time for issues to appear - and to get more familiar with the model! Yes, there seems to be a trend with putting decoders in the cab of N gauge models! My new Sonic Models Large Prairie also has one in the cab! Oh well! All the best, Ian.
@@SC68 - This is the only Dapol steamer I've got, but it doesn't seem to have bucked the trend, so you're right to be wary in the long run! I've got their new A4 on pre-order, and have wondered on several occasions whether I should cancel it because of comments I've seen about their tender drive mechanism! I'll hang on though, and report what I find! In my eyes, the Farish 08 has been my most temperamental loco, and it's only now running properly since getting it back from Mark's Trains! When it comes to quality control, I don't think any of the manufacturers cover themselves in glory! I hope you find better luck with the switch to OO gauge! Cheers, Ian.
Thanks very much Terry! Yes, the Pannier Tank is definitely a good looker, and was a great runner until recently! Hopefully I'll get to the bottom of the problem with a thorough servicing! I have to say in defence of Dapol, that all of my diesel's are great runners! :) All the best, Ian.
A nice review Ian. I have to confess I have one of these pesky little locos in Lime Green NCB livery. Put it this way it's never runs on the layout as performance wise its awful 😢. Even taking it apart and cleaning the over zealous lubrication only helped make it marginally run better - on the Growler scorecard its a 2 out of 10 I'm afraid - 10 out of 10 packaging wise though !
Thanks very much Euan! Did yours ever run properly? Mine has been great for months, and has only started to run erratically! I'm a bit disappointed to hear that your cleaning / servicing didn't solve the problem - hopefully I'll have better luck - if I ever get into the thing! Haha! Yes, this is my new favourite style of loco packaging! :) Cheers, Ian.
@@thegrowler-blackwoodngauge - Oh, that's disappointing, especially as it was a present! Would have liked to have seen a bright lime green loco running around Blackwood! :)
Sorry to hear you've also experienced similar running issues! It seems we are far from alone in experiencing poor running! I've got my fingers crossed that a service will get it back running normally, and will share the results of the service whether it solves the problems or not! All the best, Ian.
Appreciated your review (good and bad points). Why do most British N gauge steam loco reviews ignore below the running plate? Can no one see the botched-up items they call coupling rods and crank pins that would be better suited to OO or even O gauge. If you say anything to manufacturers they shout 'price', but they can include all the extra details for the bodies. Is it just me?
Thank you! I suspect that the coupling rods are quite difficult to manufacture to scale, and if they could be, would indeed be more costly! Most things in N gauge are a compromise over what can be achieved that looks good - and works - without costing too much! My bug bear is with manufacturers putting insane amounts of detail on the underside of their models, where it'll never be seen! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Ian A good review of the Pannier, although "I don't do steam" (but I do have an EFE J94..shhhh), I can't comment on how these perform but from what those previous comments on here have said, its certainly put me off and of course its a Dapol (as I've said before I'm always wary of Dapol loco's, so probably wouldn't get one). Good luck with it though. Thanks
Hi Pete! Thank you! Haha! I don't do steam either - but now have three kettles after just purchasing the Sonic Models Large Prairie! Lol! Yes, Dapol has a bad reputation, especially with it''s range of tender driven steamers, but their diesels are all pretty good runners in my experience! Fingers crossed a good service will get it running properly again! Cheers, Ian.
A very good review of the model Ian. I was interested to see what your experience with this model was. When they came out there was a lot of chat on the N gauge forum from disaffected owners and your experience is in line with that. It put me off buying one. Small tank engines all can be fickle running over points and they need wheels very clean. My two Jintys and my GF Panniers all run very well but only if their wheels are very clean. They also don't like not being run regularly. It is a pity about the positioning of the decoder, but the cab appears to be the only place for all the various tank engines I own whether from GF or Sonic (which about 6 different classes of engine). Stephen
Thanks Stephen! I too have read quite a lot comment from dissatisfied owners, but I have to say that the model has run perfectly for months! It's only just started behaving poorly in the last few weeks or so! Your comment about clean wheels is an interesting one, as I've not cleaned them since purchase! Not sure how that would cause it to stall on corners, though you never know!! Yes, the decoder positioning is frustrating! I've just purchased the Sonic Large Prairie, and like you say, it's also in the cab! Anyway, hopefully a service will sort out the running issues - and make me more confident at disassembling locos! Cheers, Ian.
@@iansngauge If I've understood things correctly, as the loco goes around the corner not all the wheels remain in contact completely. If there is dirt on the ones that are in contact it isn't enough to keep it going. The fact that it was running fine and now is playing you up makes me think it is dirty wheels (it might be dirty pick ups, but wheels far more likely). If it had been over lubricated I would have expected that to cause you a problem from the start. The Gaguemaster wheel cleaner will do the trick. Stephen
I had a similar problem with mine and I returned it to Rails. They said it was over lubricated so they cleaned it up and returned it to me. It was no better so it went back again for a refund..
Hi Richard! Yes, like I mention in the video, there are quite a few reports of over lubrication causing problems! However, mine has ran fine for nigh on six months, and has only recently been running erratically! I was even wondering whether mine required more lubrication! Lol! It's so annoying when our locos don't run as expected right out of the box, but somehow seems worse when they've ran well, and have subsequently ceased operating correctly! I'm glad Rails gave you a refund! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, really good review mate, loved the history section with some lovely photo’s. Now I have a Pannier Tank but it is a Graham Farish but it does have similar issues to yours and will be going away at some point to be looked at. I do think though that the Farish model is slightly better as the running gear looks better and does have some fine detail. It was the first loco I bought actually and did run really well for sometime but has ended up running much like yours. It does run better after running it for sometime but once stopped and then used again starts with the same problems. Have a great weekend, look out for my update later today, cheers for now, John
Good morning John! Thank you! There are some great photos around, especially if you search Flickr or explore Wikipedia! It's interesting that your Farish Pannier Tank degraded in time, just as my Dapol one seems to have done! At the moment, mine can be running fine one minute, then not the next! Also, one of my friends purchased the Farish Western Rambler train set, which has the same Pannier Tank as yours, and it suffers from similar running problems, so I'm sure these problems aren't confined to Dapol! I've been looking forward to your next update, but probably won't get to see it until tomorrow as I'm out today! Enjoy your weekend too! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, Great video. I only just started a conversation on Saturday with Rails about this issue. After a question from them regarding what DCC control system I was using, I've heard nothing since :(
Hi Frodo! :) That's interesting that they asked you about the DCC control system! I'm not a fan of the Imperium decoders, and I sometimes have trouble with them initially responding to inputs from my NCE PowerCab, but I've never seen them cause running issues like this! With this in mind, I've got a spare Zimo decoder that I could try - told you I'd end up having to take that cab off! Lol! Thanks for the info! Hope you get your loco sorted! All the best, Ian.
@@iansngauge Ian, To be fair I did ask Rails if reseting the decoder to factory settings might help. I'm new to this game and asked for guidance i.e. reset code, hence why they asked what I was using. Actually I'm using PowerCab as well. Watched "This Way Works" video and with my loco only being 7 months old, I'd rather not strip it down and degrease. Noticed that it is fairly oily (why do they tell you to oil before running if it's already greased?) so have used a tissue to soak up the oil between wheels and chassis, ran and repeated a few times. This has helped though not perfect but it is better. I've sent them a nudge earlier linking your video so hoping they respond today. Will keep you informed ;)
@@frodohobbits9684 - Ah, okay! Still think I'll try changing the decoder first! You never know! Yes, Rich at This Way Works makes disassembling and reassembling locos look fairly easy, but I'm pretty sure I'll struggle with it! Instructions that come with locos are full of contradictions, which is annoying! Let's wait and see what Rails have to say! Thanks for keeping me up-to-date! Cheers, Ian.
@@iansngauge Hi Ian, This reply today, umm.... "Dear David, if you take the cab off and remove the decoder carefully noting the way it is situated there is a screw under it can you try a quarter turn then refit the decoder and retest the loco the loco should be running after this, regards" Let's hope I don't do any dmage and void my warranty. Cheers, David.
@@frodohobbits9684 - Hi David! That's interesting! I wonder what the screw is holding? I'll add that to my list of things to try! Thanks, and good luck! Ian
Morning Ian, this is a good review video. Shame your model has become temperamental though :( The one I got in 2020 didn't like insulfrog points, but has been really smooth ever since I switched to electrofrog, and so far I haven't done any maintenance on it and it's probably got one of the higher mileages in my fleet. It's one of my favourites, and if I could only have a handful of locos this would be one of them. Hard to see how sound could be fitted though - speakers and sound decoders would have to get even smaller - it would be awesome if that could be done though! I hope you have success with the investigation - the loco looks great with those coaches and the private owner wagons.
Good morning Jonathan! Thank you! Yes, it's odd that it only started running this way in the last month or so! With pickups on all wheels it should be able to traverse the insulfrog points easily, and indeed you see it do this at the end of the video! I'm currently at a loss to why it doesn't like going around curves - sometimes! I'm really glad you've had no issues with yours since switching to electrofrog points - you've had far too many problematic locos, so I feel for you! I too love this loco, and have featured it running well in most of my private owner wagon footage! I guess a redesign would be required to make it sound fitted, but Farish managed it with their class 08, so I reckon it could be done! All the best, Ian.
@@iansngauge Yes the intermittent behaviour is very odd - I don't have any helpful theories for that I'm afraid! A Farish re-do of theirs with sound would be awesome, but I think a lot harder than the 08 - the 08's body is a nice convenient box that's got OK width, good length and is the full height of the loading gauge - the Pannier has nothing like as much internal room, so it would take quite some doing. Undoubtedly it's all possible though, so I live in hope :)
@@endoorrailway - I was thinking a small speaker in the cab, with a 90 degree decoder slotted beside it! Maybe that could work? Or decoder in the smoke box door and a speaker in the cab? :) Cheers, Ian,
Runs just like a Dapol! I'm so happy with the Grafar GWR tank I have, it runs well but like all 6 wheelers requires a little speed for points. I saw on another channel the same running issues you have with the Dapol. They had 2 of them and they really didn't like points at all. Or straights. Or curves. Best of luck sorting it out Ian. I'm past sorting out new locos.
Hi Simon! Hmm! Runs like a Dapol steamer? Their diesels are, on the whole, really good runners! My friend got a Farish Pannier as part of the Western Rambler train set, and it has similar running issues to mine, so these problems aren't confined to Dapol models! Yes, points can be a problem, but even a small loco should be able to traverse insulfrog points when it has pickups on all wheels! Hopefully I'll be able to get to the bottom of the problem of it going around curves! All the best, Ian,
Really liked the little history segment about the loco before delving into the model review. This quickly became one of if not my favourite channel as I was starting my own n gauge layout a few months ago. Thanks for the tips and inspiration!
Greetings, Shelfington, and hello Ian 👋 One of these was my second ever N Gauge locomotive purchase 🤔 of course, it had to be returned as a non runner 🙄 it's replacement has spent the last 9 years unloved at the back of a drawer 🤕 The Farish Pannier is a much better performer though 👍 This Way Works did a great video on servicing one, so well worth a review before you get the screw driver out 😇 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
I have no clue about dcc, but I hear that a lot of people fit stay alives into 00 gauge 0-6-0 locos. Not sure if there's the room for that in n gauge? Best of luck solving the hesitation on your points. Perhaps trying out an electrofrog point as a replacement for the insulfrog one to see if it improves the situation? Nice review Ian. 👍
Good morning Wickford, and hello Paul! Haha! They don't have a great history do they? I believe the earlier ones only had two pickups, and a 3 or 5 pole motor, but all wheel pickup should mean much better running, especially over insulfrog points! My friend as a Farish Pannier, and guess what? It behaves very similar to mine! Yes, Rich did a great breakdown of the 57xx, which I'll be following very closely! All the best, Ian,
Hi Simon! I fear this particular loco is too small to fit a stay alive! I fear the loco has other issues as it always used to run over insulfrog points, and indeed, you see it at the end of the video quite happily trundling over them! When I build the real layout, I'll be using unifrog points! Cheers, Ian.
