Devoted to the art of Industrial design and product development. Find out some of the secrets of designing real world product and prototypes on my channel, and the occasional amazing hockey goal I score!
Eric Strebel runs an Industrial Design studio, with in-house prototyping and 3D printing capabilities called Botzen Design in Southfield, MI. He mainly designs hand held consumer products, such as bottles, containers, sunglasses, toys as well as mechanical electronic devices. Botzen also offers Laser and 3D printing services (www.botzen.com for more info). Currently he consults for various corporate clients around the globe and teaches Industrial Design at Wayne State University in Detroit and CCS.
Nice video your upgradelist is good. I worked in textiles for 18 years. DC servois a must for sure. I would recommend a compound walking foot machine for its heavy duty capacity and more control in the turns. They are good for upholstery, wilderness gear, work clothes, and more. But not for fine dress making. Just a thought, I hope this helps.
After having run this system for several weeks are you able to comment on the longevity of the filters and the effectiveness of the alcohol for cleaning? Some other recycling methods noted the alcohol became “slimy” after a while and was leaving residue behind on the parts even though it looked clear.
The tools are somewhat overkill, especially with that laser cutter. But man, the result are not lie, It looks amazing. I really like how you clear the air bubble with that vacuum chamber, once again, somewhat overkill, but it is the best way to kill air inside things, as far as I know. And then vibrate the container while pouring the silicone. Just amazing. Very pleasant to watch.
Follow up question. has anyone experienced any issues with the resin sediment causing issues to the pump since it is the first device in the loop? I understand it was done to pressurize the lines to keep them from collapsing, but I am a little concerned about pulling unfiltered resin through it.
Is it time to incorporate a CRICUT into the hobby? I was thinking about getting into this hobby and I feel like the CRICUT would be very useful for this.
Absolutely! Huge fan of the spray Max 2k, it hardly needs wet sanding and buffing afterwards as well! Very minimal orange Peel if any , but if you get a bum can which I have back in 2021 it will have a Tad orange Peel, but that was with the old tip design
A tip about flame polishing...practice several times on scraps before attempting to polish something you've spent a lot of time and money on. Acrylic retains heat and each pass of the torch adds a little more. Many times I have thought I had the perfect edge, only to see it develop hundreds of small bubbles, completely ruining the piece. I like to sand to at least 180 grit before using flame. Also, remember not to get solvent or even alcohol near a flame-polished edge, or even an edge sanded above 320. It will craze.
Wonderfully supportive and inspirational as always, thank you, Eric! 🙂 How do you remove the resin that gets stuck in the vent holes?... just poke them out with a copper rod?
WhisperRoom is a proprietary, trademarked product name. Stay out of court - don’t use it. And for crying out loud, don’t offer anything for sale linked to that name.
Suggestions? Sure. Get the fan/box off the booth wall. Move it as far away as is reasonable. Ditch the mini-fan and use a larger fan moving at slow speed. And when all else fails, Waves Clarity VX plug in will remove all the fan noise without degrading the vocal track. One pass, post-processing…gone.
I have been replicating similar parts for an interest group here in the UK. Usually indicator units, lights and even plastic body parts that are so rare now that the prices were becoming eye wateringly expensive. I love the splitter board idea and must invest some time into that. Also the use of syringes as you do is ace. Just out of interest is there a standard way of pricing your parts? I am a little all over the place with my pricing but my parts are best around when you compare to others attempts of recreating. I would love to have a proper chat with you about everything but your help through the videos you post has been invaluable. Keep up posting the good work, its awesome 🙂👍
Hi Eric, there is a small spring arm on the bobbin case that you need to pull the bottom thread into. This may solve your problem of having the top thread get sucked in. Cheers.
what a great video Eric, I have been scoring for decades to make bends but never thought of chipping away each cut with an angle to facilitate and better the curves. Artists inspiring Artists - I LOVE IT - Thank you for sharing your tips. Frank.
Do the replicated reflectors actually work? IE if you shine light from varying angles does it get reflected back to where it came from? In order for them to work in that manner, the angles have to be very precise as the light isn't just being reflected once but several times internally and the material needs to have a suitable refraction index - i'm assuming you might already know this but you don't seem to mention any testing of the final product. It looks as though the refraction might be fine as when you move it around it seems smooth and shiny enough. Much like optical lenses however, they are very simplistic devices but require high precision to function correctly - i'm curious if the molding process retained this precision adequately or not. Other than that they look great and i really like how you explained not just what you were doing but the why, very informative!
Next time you (re)install, you could put the entire system on the right side of the cart, that way the inlet of the pump will be closer to your form wash. Might also want to look into kink-free or reinforced silicone tubing to mitigate the tubing collapse. I am curious on how effective this expose and wash system is and whether it is primarily removing the photoinitators and keeping a bunch of the resin monomers still suspended in the solvent.
I was wondering if you could set up the system to pull the IPA through the filters rather than push it through. Then, if you lift the intake hose out of the tank and pull the IPA from the filters, you could remove the housing without wasting a lot of IPA. As an engineer, would that setup work?
@@EricStrebel I was thinking about using PVC and the silicone tubing you showed. Maybe having short runs of the silicone to go into the fromwash and pvc running into the filters and then from the pump back to the silicone. I have 2 fromwash units side by side so the silicine tubing could run to one or the other, but the pump and filters would be wall mounted. Just a thought on how your idea could be adapted to what I have. Thanks for the great videos and the links to the products. It's really an inspiration.
I'm an Industrial designer turned UXer. I use all 3 and specifically product designer when I want to be ambiguous. We're (industrial designers) are never going to be able to take it back. There are honestly so many overlaps which is why a bunch of IDs in my network shifted to UX (that and the pay/demand). Products are the result of work no matter physical or digital and I've recenly saw a linkedIn post where someone referred to people in my shoes as "phygital" desigers. Not to mention the teams are led by Product Managers/Owners in the software space so there's that. Anyway, long time follower and I recently have been trying to catch up and saw this video and was immediately drawn to it. I gave up on the crusade about 5 years ago so keep up the good fight
I wish I had gone through all of your videos last week when I found your first one. I already ordered all the tubing and what not, and the original housings which have been delivered. Thankfully they are not expensive. Also, the next time you need to bend tubing like that there is a trick that is used when bending tubes that they use a silicon insert to keep the tubes from crimping. You could look into that for the next revision.
Yes I'm aware of the silicone insert method, but that would have been an extra thing to purchase my solution cost me nothing. Also I was concerned about removing the silicone insert considering the length of the tube and the tight radius.
I own a handful of vintage Bimmers and after 40+ years quality spare parts are getting harder and harder to find (assuming you could ever find them in the first place!) Ive been thinking about how to do this for a while but figured the retroreflectors/diffusers would be a nightmare to recreate but this looks super handy!
You're a pro at this! and I enjoyed your video. I just wish you would have shown us what the small silicone mold piece did for the overall mold and how it went together. And did it create additional flashing pieces ?
Hello Erik. I'm having trouble finding silver/metalic grey pigment/tint for PU rubber. I've tried Mica power, alcohol inks... Everything causes cure inhibition so far. I'm getting desperate. What would you recommand ? Almost all PU pigments I find only works for PU resin, not rubber. And for only rubber, I only found a few "regular" primary colors, such as red, white, black etc.
They ARE also used on the Bitter SC, and last I checked, which is some time ago, they were still available from the Monte Hospital in the UK. Has that inventory been depleted or ? If so, they might be interested in restocking from you, as well as some other suppliers stateside. BJB "5150" always cracks me up- 5150 is the code for a psychiatric hold. Great job on the molds!
I tried this years ago but soon found the job too heavy for such a set up. Drill press use ball bearings set up for thrust loaded, milling machines use tapered roller bearings (Timken) and can take side loads. The channels ideas are OK for very light mill jobs. BTW, a keyless chuck is a great investment for a drill press.
beeeeeeaaaauutiful work....lancias are works of art...these lights shells are works of art.....thanks for taking us on the journey.....i purchased one of your hangers...thanks for the awesome content from a fledgling fellow maker...
