Dewalt flat says NO cannot do Dato cuts with this table saw. I knew it could be done. I would find away to make the drive bolt longer is all perfect job.
There is a video online where a guy replaces the arbor on this saw (assuming 7480) with the longer one from the 7491rs. He includes part numbers for the arbor and the bearings, etc. Not a difficult task. I did it on mine and it works great.
Nice job. I like your locking mechanism. I was looking for some way to make this kind of a flip top for my jointer and planer. I like it is kind of a torsion box, which gives sturdiness. With regards to the soldering, then it is difficult to do unless you have a propane soldering flame. It was just fine what you did with the tool you had. The first thing is to get some solder in between the wires. Then the heat will travel through the solder through the rest of the wire when you put more on. So it it what it is and it works.
Having only half the arbor nut engaged would scare the h3ll out of me. If there’s a failure related to the arbor, the blades or the arbor nut, the blades could easily leave the saw and who knows where they will wind up - possibly in the operator’s chest or forehead. There’s another video that shows both blades and one chipper, for a total 3/8” stack, and the arbor nut is flush with the end of the arbor. That seems a whole lot safer than having only half of the arbor nut engaged.
I don't need to be an engineer with a working lifetime experience to know one needs what I call a "full nut" so basically you should see/feel the spindle end once tightened. I suspect in this video, removing one chipper blade would give enough spindle to work safely. As for the motor not being powerful enough; rubbish. My DW745 had an 1800 watt motor running off 240v. Plenty of power for DADOing softwood to 1/2". I very recently sold that saw without ever using or owning a dado set but my new saw a DW7491 does accept a dado stack. A 8.5" Freud DADO set arrived today. I'm sorta glad I never watched this video when I had the DW745, I just see images of blood spurting out of my neck or part of my face hanging off. No thanks.
“It’s a poor workman who quarrels with his tools” In this case the fault lies squarely on the shoulders of your soldering iron. Just not hot enough. You did everything else right. If you can’t get enough heat into the wire so the solder melts by touching the wire only the you soldering iron is not good enough. Nice cabinet by the way.
It’s not just the lack of thread engagement in the nut that is the problem, it’s the washer! The washer is dished on purpose, to maintain a reasonable clamp load should the nut back off slightly. There’s a whole science in bolted joints. The washer isn’t a spacer, it’s a spring. The set up proposed here is extremely dangerous.
I've looked at just about every flip cart video that I come across, and I think yours is one of the best I've seen. The little tabs that positively stop rotation and anchor the position of the top are a great idea!
I like it. I also like the "Extreme Flip Top" design over here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-30fThUGGEdI.html - I think I will try to combine the best of both into a design for me.
The only good thing about this saw is that they put the blade on the Left Side. Look at the kerf width of blade, and the cut it makes. The large majority of these had a flaw in the arbor. They jave a slight bend to them. They had to put the riving knife on it, or thered be issues. If ypu try plunging it into a deeper cut you will notice the wobble issue more. I was hoping Kreg would fix the issue. The degree of bend on arbor varies from saw to saw... my first one was horrible. It burnt every piece of wood i had. Then after several more, i gave up. I shouldve known better, being a Kreg product, but I was so devoted to a left blade track saw because i was a lefty, and became a full time righty and having right blade track saws were a hinderance for many cuts, since i could only use my right arm.
This reminds me of the Jurassic Park thing: just because you could doesn’t mean you should. I have the same saw and like other people said you can use the 2 blade box cutting set on it no problem. This set up however looks like an open invitation for a visit from the grim reaper.
For your cords. I would have used a 2 inch x 4 inch steel handy box, braid the wire together, and cap with wire nuts. I like your design, but for myself, (this is not for everyone), I would have cut dados for the glue up.
thumbs down for just glossing over "some youtuber". Give credit where credit is due, it's fisher's cart: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WXQ707IvutI.html
With the nut only half engaged? I don't know if you can feel my butthole pucker all the way from up here in Canada, but damn. The stones on you. I could see trying this myself if it were an emergency, but I can't imagine explaining it to the WSIB inspector when it maims one of my employees. Love the content! Try and keep your fingers?
There are incidents when using a dado stack on this model where the nut got loose during the cut. Don’t do this, definitely nothing more than like 1/4in in height with that many blades.
I was really surprised how much cutting power (and torque) this saw had out of the box. I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw ru-vid.comUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
If I were to go about building something like this, I would: 1. Use dado joints for several key structural points, rather than simply glued and pocket screwed butt joints. For example, where the sidewalls of the cabinet meet the horizontal member over the drawer, that should be a dado joint. 2. Don't attempt to solder the extension cord back together. First of all, that pencil iron likely doesn't have the power to solder 12 AWG, I would recommend one of the pistol-shaped soldering guns. Second, that sort of lap joint is terrible; there are proper ways to splice stranded cable, that's not one of them. Third, the correct way to do this is to go to the cable aisle of your favorite hardware store, and buy a new NEMA 5-15 plug with screw terminals.
Obviously, you were successful and unharmed, but I'd never accept less than a full nut/thread engagement..if/when those blades become disengaged from arbor due to centrifugal or excessive vibration forces, what they impact is totally unpredictable..maybe I'm being overly cautious..please reconsider before proceeding
Why would you blur the final frames of this video with fast-forward ? Would like to have seen (slo-mo) how the cart reacted to the top (landing on the side-stops ) for each device …. And how stable it was while each machine was in use . … you should re-shoot the ending 👍
If no one answered the soldering questions, you have to heat your tip, dab it on a wet rag to shock any old solder on the tip to get it off, or use steal wool, but that can damage the tip if you aren't careful. Then 'tin' the tip by putting flux paste on it and a bit of solder. Flux paste the wires, then put the iron to the wires. Put the end of the solder to the wire and when it heats up enough the flux will help pull the solder all the way through the joint. Remove the end of the solder wire, then remove the iron and allow to cool before moving the joint.
As it happens, I have a 7485 AND a dado set on order, and only just realized that the 7485 supposedly can't take a dado set. But your video gives me hope! And if on the 7485 there is some kind of guard in the way, I'll consider modding. Over 50 yrs using power saws and never injured. (Except once slightly by a table saw guard. If you must use a table saw guard, be EXTRA careful!)
I have a dado stack for my DW 744. I know I can't use the entire stack on it. I did buy a Dewalt dado throat plate a few years ago. From my manual it says: Do not attempt to stack thicker than 13/16" (20mm) and do not use dado blades larger than 8". When installing the dado stack do not include the inner clamp washer, replace it with the outer clamp washer. Then install the dado stack, arbor nut and tighten with supplied wrench. Years ago, I got a wobbly dado, but it's a pain to get that lined up sometimes.
