I've looked at just about every flip cart video that I come across, and I think yours is one of the best I've seen. The little tabs that positively stop rotation and anchor the position of the top are a great idea!
That's a good flip cart! The wire didn't get hot enough because your soldering iron was too small for the wire size, but you shouldn't have a solder joint in an extension cord like that. It's best to cut the end off and put on a new plug; I like using the right-angle plugs from leviton.
For the cord/solder issue. A 20A electrical outlet integrated into your workbench would allow remove the need to solder the wires. Nice bonus of having a couple outlets on the bench too.
Your design seems to "borrow" heavily from Fisher's Shop (RU-vid). Drew Fisher built the original 3 years ago. It would be nice to give him credit. He has plans that can be purchased.
I bought Drew Fisher’s plans about 2 years ago and loved it. As soon as I saw this video, I also was pretty sure that this build “borrowed” rather heavily from Drew’s design. You always hope that woodworkers will give credit to others if they base their work on another’s design.
Omg you damn credit cops are so fcking annoying. Here some info for ya, everybody makes something based on someone,'s idea. Originallity has been gone for about a century. Fiy, information should always be free. These asses on youtube asking money is disgusting. The only way to advance as a species is to share and provide free knowledge. Idiots ignoring this, here is a fun fact. RU-vid was originally created for just that purpose !!
I have both these tools and I'm going to build this with one major and one minor change! The minor change is that I will add a spare duplex outlet into the front end of the flip box so that it's more readily accessible no matter which way the table is flipped. I doubt I'll ever use this outlet when I'm in planer mode, since I usually plane into the yard, downwind! But i will use it often in sander mode as I hook my Festool vac to a 20 amp outlet, then plug my sander into the vac. I find that I often have other sanders in play during this process and the spare outlet will allow me to plug the cart into the vac and anything I turn on that plugged into the cart will automatically start the vac, that way I don't have to reach down and swap out the power cords of different tools on the front of the vac, as I frequently do now. I'll have to swap the vac hose between tools but I'm still eliminating one step. Sometimes I have 3 cords laying there. The major change I will make is to eliminate those fixed side storage areas and instead, create two storage caddies that will store into the areas on either end, just above your drawer, when i roll the cart out to use it, i can pull them out from underneath the table and they will conveniently hook onto the sides of the cabinet, where your permanent storage areas are. I'll probably make them out of a combination of 1/2" and 1/4" as there won't be anything heavy going in them anyway and that will keep them lighter for times I do pull them out. This will greatly reduce the footprint of the cabinet during storage. If I don't happen to need to flip the lid, I'll just leave them where they are and still have full access to them. I sand more than I plane, so I expect sander up will be the most dominate position. I'll also add a cleat underneath the outboard flip table of the planer so if I'm planing long boards, I can add an outfeed extension table. I may just take the stock discharge outfeed table off altogether as it's pretty short and it's aggravating to have a piece of wood hit the concrete if another board pushes it off the table while I'm batching boards. I've seen other people build similar carts and put two sanders on it and have it like a sanding station, but that makes no sense to me. I want the two tools that share the cart to be from different families of process. That's why I don't own a Shopsmith! I don't want to have to switch back and forth between tooling. Great build, Thanks for sharing!
Pro tip: Never use a cutoff wheel to grind down the sharp burs of a piece of metal you just cut. Those wheels are intended for cutting, not grinding. They can fail and God forbid, cause serious injuries. I bought a second grinder and use one for grinding and one for cutting. I’m way too lazy to be changing those out. Other than that, great video.
I had Home Depot cut and thread 2 pieces of pipe so I could add flanges on the outside ends to help keep the sides from splaying out. I used Drew Fisher’s plan.
@@georgequalls5043 - Do you just have the threaded pipe turn in the flanges? Would only be half a turn so not a big deal. Or do you just have the table pivot around the pipe? Don't anchor the pipe on the inside.
I'm not a soldering expert, but I used to have the same problem. I switched to a propane torch with a soldering attachment from harbor freight. Works 100x better than the plug in one as it gets way hotter.
I agree with Micheal Adamson that you should use a torch for the heating on things that large as that copper is a major heat sink. I would recommend using flux on any soldering job as well. For electrical connections I prefer vinyl butt connectors.
Great design. I've also been concerned about the Fisher's cart design and don't trust it to not be wobbly. Your solution of outside shelving is really clever. Your design for the blocks and locks for allowing the table to rotate only 180 deg back and forth is also quite clever. Sorry it appears your channel didn't take off and you haven't posted more. This is good stuff.
This was excellent! Your sense of humor made me laugh out loud sometimes. I've never seen so many somewhat negative comments on a woodworking channel. Totally undeserved. This was great! And well done. Keep it up, your subscribers will be growing fast. Also, the video editing was perfect.
Nice job. I like your locking mechanism. I was looking for some way to make this kind of a flip top for my jointer and planer. I like it is kind of a torsion box, which gives sturdiness. With regards to the soldering, then it is difficult to do unless you have a propane soldering flame. It was just fine what you did with the tool you had. The first thing is to get some solder in between the wires. Then the heat will travel through the solder through the rest of the wire when you put more on. So it it what it is and it works.
I was just getting read to make another Fisher Flip Cart (which I think is where you borrowed the original idea from) and I came across this video. You reallly made som nice improvements on the original design and I intend to incorporate those in my new cart. Very nice job!
Nice flip cart! I don't have enough tools to need one yet but saved your video for future reference! I also have issues with soLdering (in Australia we pronounce the L) so I'll be checking your comments for any hints on that also! Not just with thick cable!!
Nice cart! I would really like to see a video on your dust extraction/vacuum in the corner. I have a somewhat similar thing I want to make. 10 gal trash can, vortex separater, vacuum all on one cart. Mine would add three elements: Smaller oval trash can on the bottom that could be filled with water (for catching really fine particles/ash). Hose reel. Large wheels/handles so it can be moved like a hand dolly/truck. Basically, I want to be able to disconnect the cart from the garage dust collection, wheel it to my fire place, and clean out the cold ash. Then, wheel it back and easily reconnect it. But, your system looks very similar to what I want to make (minus the water/ash filter).
I think you did a great job with this, and I really like the shelves on the sides. Drew Fisher is somewhere, clapping while watching this. I am going to be building his cart for my shop later this week, and I just might have to make a change for the bottom piece (a little bit wider) so I can incorporate shelving like yours.
I also like the design, but also don't love the power cable, maybe an electrical box with a switch or better would a magnetic switch, so that when plug it in you have to set the switch on, you can get them for a bout 20-30 bucks now.
For your cords. I would have used a 2 inch x 4 inch steel handy box, braid the wire together, and cap with wire nuts. I like your design, but for myself, (this is not for everyone), I would have cut dados for the glue up.
You may need a high watt iron. that cable is thick the home hooby iron is not hot enough. As for the electrical plug next time buy a replacement Male end from amazon you can get them very inexspessinve and it will have a better contact. Otherwise your soldering job will hold up. Thank you for sharing.
Nice cart. I plan to build something very similar and I really like your flip top design. As far as the soldering, a larger iron would have worked but I prefer a mini torch. Much faster than an iron, just have to be careful and have plenty of slack to slide the shrink tube up far enough away from the heat.
For soldering: Flux. Pre-tin iron. Pre-tin wires. For this: don't solder. Use an aftermarket replacement plug. Also, that cord is rated for 15A because it has 15A plug and socket. In and of itself, 12AWG will carry 20A.
Love this. THANK YOU for OK'ing the use of the cheap birch plywood for shop stuff. No one but me is going to see or give a crap about it, it'll last longer than I'll be alive, so all the RU-vid baltic birch artisinal bespoke "shop carts" I see are just absurd. Also eyeing your Ryobi nailer - I have the stapler and circ saw; what do you think? Worth the purchase?
Haha yes exactly! And yeah, the Ryobi nailer is OK. Worth the money but perhaps not as reliable as more expensive brands. My only complaint is that it sometimes needs a few attempts to get fired up after sitting for a day or two. Otherwise it does what it’s supposed to do.
Is there a way to get plans for this cart. I found that your design and usage about the best I have seen. With my limited space I need about three of these. Great video!
Look up Fishers Flip top cart. Plans are $5. Fisher's plans do not include outboard shelving but that is the easy part. Plans are about 30 pages and have all the measurement details.
I agree. I'm in Australian and would just attach a new connector plug rather than rejoin the cut wires. Apart from being safer and more secure, it just looks better!
“It’s a poor workman who quarrels with his tools” In this case the fault lies squarely on the shoulders of your soldering iron. Just not hot enough. You did everything else right. If you can’t get enough heat into the wire so the solder melts by touching the wire only the you soldering iron is not good enough. Nice cabinet by the way.
On the solder, you just need a bigger iron for the amount of copper you're heating I'm afraid. Mine seem to lose heat over time, so maybe just get a new one?
Another tip for soldering. Hold the iron UNDER the wire. Heat rises and when you hold the solder against the wire, it will flow down and through the wire and not on the iron.
If no one answered the soldering questions, you have to heat your tip, dab it on a wet rag to shock any old solder on the tip to get it off, or use steal wool, but that can damage the tip if you aren't careful. Then 'tin' the tip by putting flux paste on it and a bit of solder. Flux paste the wires, then put the iron to the wires. Put the end of the solder to the wire and when it heats up enough the flux will help pull the solder all the way through the joint. Remove the end of the solder wire, then remove the iron and allow to cool before moving the joint.
Looks similar to the Fisher’s flip cart, with room for storage on the side. Looks good. I wonder how it holds with the planer’s vibration. I have the same planer and that thing is powerful. Good idea on the long extension cord. I just put a power strip in mine with 6-7 foot cord and have to use an extension cord.
It looks similar to the Fisher’s flip cart, because it IS Fisher’s flip cart. I think he did a great job with his, and I really like the shelves on the sides.
Hey mate, poor soldering is because your tip is too small to heat the wire and melt the solder at the same time. Tinning the wire first will give better solder flow and adhesion. Probably better to get hold of twist connectors, feed your ends in and screw the wire together. Nice cart. Cheers.
If I were to go about building something like this, I would: 1. Use dado joints for several key structural points, rather than simply glued and pocket screwed butt joints. For example, where the sidewalls of the cabinet meet the horizontal member over the drawer, that should be a dado joint. 2. Don't attempt to solder the extension cord back together. First of all, that pencil iron likely doesn't have the power to solder 12 AWG, I would recommend one of the pistol-shaped soldering guns. Second, that sort of lap joint is terrible; there are proper ways to splice stranded cable, that's not one of them. Third, the correct way to do this is to go to the cable aisle of your favorite hardware store, and buy a new NEMA 5-15 plug with screw terminals.
A note to future youtubers here: Spend some time in the intro of your "design and build this project" video, spend some time not spinning the project around in fast forward. Hold it still with maybe a slow pan, to let the audience get an actual look at it.
A great design. I think I would have cut and soldered the lines on the inside of the box to avoid having the splice ne’er the plug end. Or, let in an outlet for a hand sander or something else. But overall, a very good design.
13:15 - instead of this mess, cut off the plug, feed the cable through, then use an aftermarket 3-prong plug that you can screw the power cable in. The time savings alone is worth it. Regarding the solder. A) your iron wasn't hot enough. b) for this application you need a physical/chemical connection (solder) and a mechanical connection (heat shrink). So you did well. However, I would rather not have to splice anything and just do the plug swap I mentioned. Peace of mind and all.
I'm a big fan of using pocket holes as well. Only problem I've run into is setting my clutch drill appropriately to torque them down rather than just spinning. What have you found to be the best clutch setting? I've even tried an impact driver which helped a little but still had some that just spun.
I just do it by feel, no clutch. The clutch setting would depend on screw length and material strength. Try using pocket holes for some shop projects and you’ll get the feel for it in no time.
There is no one size fits all clutch setting. Different wood or a knothole in the wood changes everything. Start at the lowest setting and go up one step at a time. Best bet, get close and finish by hand with a screwdriver.
🇬🇧very good. You must be careful with the quality control officer, she looks like she could be very mean if pushed. As for the draw slides in a tight space, how silly of you…………. I have done it more than once. Anyway great video. I like the way you confess your errors.
The reason ply is always measuring wrong is because its constructed using metric measurements (6mm,12mm, 18mm, 25mm) that's why 3¼ never measures correct yet every American woodworking youtuber says the same thing "the ply is never correct" ? - nope, it's just metric and not imperial - try using millimeters instead of inches and presto your work will be more accurate.....
Why would you blur the final frames of this video with fast-forward ? Would like to have seen (slo-mo) how the cart reacted to the top (landing on the side-stops ) for each device …. And how stable it was while each machine was in use . … you should re-shoot the ending 👍
You needed a much larger solder gun (a pistol grip gun in the 200-300 watt range), but could have just used crimp connectors with the heat-shrink tubing as well. I'm not sure your solder job is good enough and may cause the connection to overheat when you draw large amperage loads through it (the joint may have high resistance). I'd check it a few times when used under load to see if the joint feels hot. Otherwise, A nice build.
My advice is not to solder at all. Don’t use extension cord for these projects. Go to the wire section and buy 6ft of 10-12 gauge cable. Then attach your own industrial plugs. No chance for shorts or power loss.
It sure looks like a poor copy of Fishers flip cart. It would have been polite to name him rather than a generic “saw this on RU-vid”. Oh and don’t solder mains connections.
Not even close to the ultimate. I built one a few years ago that accommodated six tools (oscillating spindle sander, 12" disk sander, Combo belt and 6" disk sander, small bandsaw, slow speed grinder, and mortiser) in total and integrated electrical and dust collection and many other features e.g. storage and drawers, etc.
Kreg is shite. They make "Chinese knock-offs" look high quality. In fairness, there certainly are "knock offs" that stoop to an even lower quality standard than Kreg, but there are also plenty that are higher quality.
thumbs down for just glossing over "some youtuber". Give credit where credit is due, it's fisher's cart: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WXQ707IvutI.html
That is NOT the 'ultimate' anything except, maybe, arrogance. That's the same cart as a thousand other woodworkers have been building for 50 years or more.
