My name is Johann and I love all things Porsche, but I am a lover of all things mechanical. I earn my money as a strategy consultant in the area of Data Management and Governance. When I am not working and spending time with my family , I spend time restoring classic Porsches at home in my garage.
Follow the work I do on my Porsche 924 Safari, Porsche 924 Turbo and many more Porsches from small upgrades to full services as well as mechanical overhauling and engine rebuilds. I am an experienced amateur mechanic, but there are many things I don't know and we will discover together what works and what doesn't
My goal is to show you how I do things, tell you what went wrong and help prevent you from making the same mistakes. Every now and then I might also document some of our many road trips with my Porsches.
Thank you for watching and please leave me your feedback and input!
The first step is to spray the pilot bearing with penetrating fluid to break down any corrosion between the bearing and the flywheel. It's important to note that the pilot bearing has a threaded section. Find a bolt that fits into these threads; I used one of the belhousing bolts. Once you have the correct bolt, find a pipe or socket that the bolt can pass through. Ensure that the head of the bolt is held back by the socket or pipe, and add a washer if needed. Now, all you have to do is tighten the bolt, and the pilot bearing should slowly pull out of the flywheel. If the bolt bottoms out, add more washer/spacers. I hop this help.
Yes they did @@Narve-ij7wi, but I had very little clearance in the front. I think they would have damaged the front fenders if the suspension was compressed more than usual.
great help thanks for the clear description of the bearing placement order etc...i think the triple square head bolts are the originals and people tend to use hex/allen when they replace them.
Should have cut the J Pipe and put in a flex sleeve on it. The common fail point of the J Pipe is the weld at the flange to the waste gate due to vibration. Putting in a flex sleeve dampens the vibration and keeps the pipe from breaking off.
Johann...Thank you so much for your valuable time and considerable effort to crate and publish this library of restorative adventures. Your work has inspired me to work on my 968 that has been parked since the kids went to college . Then after surviving a widow-maker....my thoughts and energy to bring my 968 back to life- faded. So, Thank you for making a difference. I really, really appreciate your great work.
Fantastic, great overhaul - you must be getting more and more keen to see how it drives! I did a similar scope as you on my U.S. 968 white convertible back in January before shipping it over to the North of Italy where I now live. Koni yellow's (softest setting) and new discs. Front end is still not super tight and looking at the bushings now, going from easy to harder, starting with the anti-roll bar bushings, then the arm perhaps. Part of it might also just also be related to the inherent body flex of the cab. Still a joy to drive but will give it a good go to see how much improvement I can make.
Thanks Jeff, I have not replaced the wheelbearings (yet) all four sound really good, so I don't think any water found it's way past the seals, but time will tell.
Looks brillant . I am doing my 968 Coupé since 2022. But i needed to change the cams. At the end i did the hohle Engine. What i wantet to say ,: Nobody should leave the costs of those out of the eyes. The Parts are very expensive and it is a Lot of work . Regards from Austria
Thank you! I agree, I do my best to inspect every single component and replace where neccesary. I am sure there are still many surpises still waiting for me with this car.
Great work Johann and a pleasure to watch as always.. Regarding the new blue injector caps, they do indeed work fine even though they will sit higher than the injector tip unlike the original green caps that sits flush. When I rebuilt my injectors I had the same concerns and wondered if they taller blue caps would interfere with the spray pattern, but since the originals broke when removing them, I had no choice but to install the blue caps before taking the injectors to a shop for ultrasonic clean and flow testing. And they worked 100% fine with the blue caps with no interference to spray pattern at all. In fact there was only 1% difference between the four injectors, so as good as new basically.
Another great episode Johann and a pleasure to watch as always.. Always a tense moment when firing up the engine after major works and long hiatus, but sooo satisfying when its finally alive and running smoothly.. Well done and looking forward to the next episode.. :-)
Installing the cluster is very straight forward, justa couple of screws and clicking i the wiring harness, not even 5 minutes of work. Happy to answer any questions you might have.
Nice job with the repair and cleaning - a lot of people do not realize how much time one must spend on cleaning... Very helpful video. Please keep releasing these - they are a great ressource. Can I just advise to wet the windscreen next time before trying the repaired wiper motor? Prevents that the dry wipers scratch your windscreen...
Thats brilliant work mate I’m so pleased there was no major problems for you. How did removing and replacing the fuel tank strainer go. What method did you use. Im about to replace mine with both filters and some underside fuel lines. The original fuel pump seems ok, so I think I’ll keep it.
Thanks Terence! The strainer came out quite easily, I have seen some issues on forums where the"holder" came out with the strainer, but I think that is a rare occurance. I just put a 17mm splanner on it and it came right out, it wasn't stuck or rotted in. I would say this was probably the easiest job out of all of them. If you are not replacing the fuel pump the carier can stay put, just open the little hatch by romving the two metal screws and it should expose the fuel line and strainer.
Thanks for that. I knew some people had problems removing the filter and I was a bit wary. But I’m from the school of prevention is better than the cure as these filters can break down with time and can cause a headache. Can I say I’ve watched all your posts on this series and would like to thank you for taking the time and effort. This series is an absolute goldmine for 968 owner, very skilfully put getter, and a pleasure to follow the progress.
That is just things like WD40 burning off. That is always the most scary bit about starting an engine after this much work; knowing if the smoke is harmless or impending doom 😅
Good work! Had a similar experience when resurrecting my CS that I bought from Kuwait which hadnt run for 12 years. Turned out to be a dead fuel pump in that case where as I'm guessing your DME relay or something beyond isnt working? Have you drained the gearbox oil? (sorry can't remember!)
Thanks Jake! It now even runs on the DME relay, so not quite sure what the issue was. I read on a forum that sometimes the pump can’t overcome the air pressure being built op in the rail, but that makes no sense to me as it is an open system. I have ordered a new relay to be safe. I also drained the gearbox oil. I was very worried about it having water inside, but not a drop and the oil was still fairly fresh too. All fluids except for the brakes have now been flushed.
Yes, the toughest parts are now done, now on to the suspension! She runs on the relay now by the way, I am not sure why she wouldn't before. As far as I can tell there was no reason for the pump not to rigger on the relay from the start 🤔 I have a solid state DME relais on the way just in case.
😂 You are right!! That would be the reason, I was so stressed I completely forgot that is was not installed 🙈 I am waiting on a bearing for the aircon pump so hopefully I can get that belt installed soon.
