@@1953fords exhaust on my ranger goes outside the frame. I'm about to do the aje k member swap so I hope my headers will still work. If not I will sell them and make new ones.
@@chrisbeekley1887 that’s exactly what I didn’t want. I personally don’t like them outside the frame. Nice project. Good luck. About 10 years ago I was looking at a Foxbody K member and thought that would be perfect in the ranger. But I wasn’t sure how I was gonna do the upper strut towers.
@@1953fords you can't even see my exhaust. It's tucked up close. But you can definitely hear it lol. 3.5 inch exhaust with flowmasters. Mufflers were stupid a** expensive $600 for the pair, but it sounds good. 363 stroker just shy of 600 ponies.
Sounds good, ill bet could do better. Those big mutha thumpr cams got alot of overlap, but have a big difference between intake and exhaust duration. The lobe profiles are lazier than the old dual energy comp cams. Be better off documenting your motor and having a custom cam ground. Look into david vizards how to build horsepower. 128 formula. Lsa is a huge starting point, and overlap will ultimately determine rpm range, in a nut shell. Know exactly what you want, so when you build it, it can be perfect!
@@wesleynash9385 sweet. Sadly 289/302/351w engines are getting harder to find and price is going up. Good luck👍🏼 I’m gonna be building a 1952 Mercury Flathead to put back in the 53. Thanks
I have the same tractor and blower attachment. I have considered making such improvements, thanks for the detail on the chute motors, that's helpful. First I have get my charging circuit fixed.
Thanks for watching. New regulator and run a seperate ground wire from mounting bolt of regulator direct to the negative on battery. I bet you’ll be good. I keep chasing that issue and did the ground wire and been perfect ever since. 👍🏼
Yes I always wanted one and the stars aligned and I got this one. It has the typical New England rocker panel rot. But I just picked up all new sheetmetal for it. Guy was asking $8000 I got it for $4500😁
Yes sir Stock Block .040 over. 1984 non roller block. I used a stock 5.0 spider lined it all up and drilled and tapped the valley for it. Then used stock 5.0 hydraulic roller lifters new of course. I then clearanced the dog bones to not interfere with the block. This was NOT the retrofit one they sold
AFR 165 Heads. Just the CompCams Big Mutha Thumpr. Not the Mutha Thumpr. I forget the part number I believe it’s in one of the comments. Hydraulic Roller of course.
@@bryce090892 yes it was just what I was trying to accomplish I wanted the smaller size for the street. Plus if you compare the flow numbers. The 185’s only start flowing more over .600 lift. The cam is under .600 so your not gaining anything but slower velocity and less responsiveness thanks for all your kind words. 👍🏼
At first I used the 2001 V8 explorer one. Then switched to the aluminum one I got from eBay. The explorer one worked totally fine keeping it cool I just wanted to switch to the other one cause I hated the weird upper radiator hose.
Did you use the stock transmission mount ? I had a trans shop to work on mine but the ruin my motor and I never got my mount or radiator back didn't have truck long to check what it was.. I'm going 347 with c4
Hi sorry about your ordeal. Yes I used stock transmission crossmember but I cut the ends off and bolted it to the flat bottom of the frame so it doesn’t stick down so low like the stock set up.
Yes they did me dirty... took it in to rebuild trans I didn't have time to pull it out so i took the truck instead (lesson learned) so I get the call truck ready I get there one of the young boys did full burnouts in it and blew my motor you could see all the hits he made smh... oh and it's a full blown drag truck... boy I was hot
