Hello and welcome to Woodwork Family. My name is Kevin, and I am dedicated to bringing you the best tips and tools for the DIY home woodworker. You don't need a huge space or expensive tools to get good at woodworking, just passion for the craft.
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I usually add longer screws as Option #1 then chisel for Option #2. There is another option to add pennies/washers under the edge of the hinge on the jamb away from the pin. This moves the pin away from the jam a little which must might be enough. Particularly useful for outside doors that had side lights so longer screws cannot be used.
Hi Kevin. Thank you very much for making this video and sharing your knowledge. I was able to fix my bathroom door by simply tightening the screws belonging to the upper hinge. Your video was a great help. Thank you again!
Would this stud finder also work through shiplap? I just purchased one and installing a ductless AC unit on my shiplap wall and have little room for error.
But for thickness issue, how about turning the small stopper piece inside out and the thickness will be reduced. I dont know if you get what I am trying to explain.
Thanks renovating an apartment and the bottom to the door in one apartment doesn't close well. Chisel is the answer I would say on the bottom hinge where the door sticks. In your videos you look like you are looking into the space above the video, I'm sure there is a way to fix this. I haven't looked at your other videos but that would be a huge improvement.
The stud finder in this video won't work on a brick wall because it is too dense. In fact exterior walls have too many layers for them to work. I'm not sure if there are any that are designed for these walls.
It's a zircon brand stud finder. You can check it out at this link: amzn.to/3rlMGY0 Plus I put links in the description of all my videos for the tools or products I use.
It's a zircon brand stud finder. You can check it out at this link: amzn.to/3rlMGY0 Plus I put links in the description of all my videos for the tools or products I use.
Great job! Watched a lot of videos for my situation. At 8 minutes you solved the issue! Thx! Heck I was to the point going to use drastic measures with a grinder haha!
Have a quick question. Dont you need to enter the attic and insert a nut for every bolt/screw that you have used for the ceiling brackets. Wont the weight pull the unit down. Or is there a max weight that the unit handles "without" these nuts and if nuts are added, the weight capacity increases?
You do not need a nut for every bolt because they are lag screws. They are installed into the rafters, and can handle a tremendous amount of weight. Thank you for the question!
Hello Kevin, My bedroom door is closing and I have adequate gap, top, bottom, and jam. The problem is the door is very tight to close properly. I notice both hinges have a gap rather than being flat together with the door closed.
Instead of using a drill bit to test the 2x4, I would use a very thin nail and gently hammer it in. One in the middle and one each about half an inch on either side.
First guy I have seen on RU-vid, who knows what he’s talking about everybody else takes pins out and bends the hinge absolutely useless in Europe where we don’t have such hinges sometimes however, you only need to tighten up the loose screws. I would give anybody this advice look at your door and do a bit of Sherlock Holmes as the door will show you why it’s rubbing or not fitting properly into the doorframe take your time and use your common sense.
Are you installing the ceiling bracket in a joist or just the drywall? I have a furred ceiling in my garage and am wondering if I can install my shelf in it
You want to find the joists when installing something that will hold this amount of weight. The furred ceiling is not enough. Try to find the joists with a studfinder if necessary.
Can't we just take a close-up photo of the paint, and they can scan the photo on our phone? It seems like if they don't have that already, then that would be the way to go eventually.