Hi Jake… Just came across your channel and watched this video. Great info! I’m in Tulsa, OK and what you described as your concerns re performance in your climate zone sounds very similar to thoughts I’ve had. I’m CZ 3a, warm/humid. But in Tulsa we’re very close to CZ 4, mixed/humid. So, I’ve been thinking it might be best to pursue CZ 4 reqs(?). I’m wondering what your thoughts are now, after 2-3 years in the cabin. - Would you do anything differently? - Has the assembly performed as you had anticipated, based on the software data you had? Although solar isn’t something I’m looking at doing initially, I hope to do so after we’re settled in. I’ll look at costs and tech then, and see if it’s more manageable, budget-wise. So, our scenarios aren’t apples to apples, but still would like your thoughts. Great job on the cabin! TY, Chad
iv been doing this type of foundatio since the 70S so i nee to ask why didi you do it so high also you do have a french drain around it right also did you put plaice uuuuuuuuuuuuuunder your gravel and what are you going to use to seal the walls of the foundation since i didint see you calk the seam i use the probuct call bule skin to cover the ply having al that rock helps since my house is sitting on lava rock buit i had to jack hammer a lot of iyt but it is worth the work because the cost of concret is way to much but what i see what you have done it is good should used 2x8 fpr the walls and 16 inch on center
This is obviously a little late, but many of those adhesive membranes and tapes use a pressure activated adhesive which requires you to use a roller at the edges to press it down and get it to stick. It could also be that it was improperly stored though. I have actually been thinking about building my own A-frame as house prices have gone up dramatically, so this really helped.
Really enjoyed watching your video. I'm waiting for dryer weather to begin my metal roof installation on my cabin. Your information aligns with my plan. I'm thinking I need more insulation to get a higher our value. Living in Tennessee the summers get pretty hot probably like Missouri.your references are ones that I watch quite frequently as well. Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
So far it still looks like new, but we will see. Main worry is termites; we inspect inside and outside each year, so far no signs. We sprayed the whole foundation with borate solution in the second year, maybe that's helped. There are a *lot* of termites around. One upside is that the whole construction is visible and accessible from inside, so in theory it's relatively easy to jack up and replace parts that go bad.
NDSU, here: www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans We changed them to add the glass wall, "great room" living room and the treated wood foundation, but it worked great to use those plans as a base, make changes we wanted and have a local engineering firm sign off on them.
@@OzarkMountainCabin i've seen the same plans online. And I recognized a lot of the characteristics in your structure and figured you might had used those plans. 😊
What do you think about insulation on the inside of your A frame. We have an A frame and just put a standing seam roof on and added 4 inch solid foam insulation on the outside. I was thinking about doing someone the inside also. My upright A frame lumber are 2 by 8's. I was thinking of filling that space with fiberglass and putting tongue and groove on top of that. What do you think of that?
Sure, there's a lot of assemblies that are set up like that! I'd look for something that's a recommended assembly - like a recommended set of layers, materials and thickness ranges - there's some non-intuitive stuff where the relative thicknesses of the inside and outside insulation can cause condensation. If you add a vapor-impermeable layer on the inside of the wood, like a vapor barrier or foam board insulation, that would restrict the woods ability to dry, so you'd want to be careful that whatever you do allows some way for the assembly to breathe still
We are planning to build an A-frame with a 28-foot span. We want to do a similar build to yours- 6ft centers with T&G sheathing, but we need a 28ft A with a 24/12 pitch. Have you seen any public domain drawings with those specs?
The only public domain drawings I know of are the ones NDSU has - they have at least three different A-frame ones though: www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans
Honestly really good! We did this whole summer without the generator, just solar panels, batteries and AC running the whole time. Winter we still need to run the wood stove for comfort heat, but it's 100% livable year around. We will see when a 100-year winter cold comes in one of these days, but at least so far so good.
Just finishing my first actual wooden tiny house/storage shed in Little Rock and I approve of every pointer you've mentioned here. I'm currently providing consulting services to tiny house builders based on my prior career photographing award winning projects for hundreds of clever architects. YTube channels are: cafekiva and giantstepspermaculture. Thanks.
Back for more. Great job. I'm Green with envy but I also know the hardship of living in the boonies and I have lived in MN out in the country with an outhouse and a wood stove weeds growing everywhere and the county pounding on the door everyday demanding we do things a certain way and get an outhouse and the expense is ridiculous because you can't do your own
great job, love to see somebody out there off the beaten path. I finally got this in my RU-vid feeds after 3 years of not seeing it so-called algorithm
finally an update, your cabin looks great. really enjoy your videos and your style of presentation. can you provide a ball park figure of how much it all cost, without the land and what is the square footage of your a-frame? seems like you did most if not all the work, i am really curious what the cost is, a range works great? thanks
I don't have a full tally, but I think the ballpark - land not included - is ~$40K-$50K, if I include the cost from this past summer where we doubled the PV panel count and battery bank.
Yeah philips sucks especially if you aren’t using an 18-20v impact driver. I prefer the square-drive “Robertson” bits over wobbly torx screws. However, if you’re set on torx, try using a torx magnetic driver. It’s a game changer especially with an impact. Square drive screws lock into the Robertson magnet bit driver even better.
Wow. This was a very dangerous .method of building. Foundation proper is paramount. Footings. Foundation walls with proper piers posts and beams support. Then proper floor joists and completed flooring deck. Then start A frame construction. Strongly suggest watching Wild Wonderful off Grid for proper A frame construction . God Bless you all. Builder 45years. This vid was poor and unsafe building techniques.
Very impressive work, and an excellent video explaining it. It’s been great following your progress. I know you filmed all this a year ago, but have you thought about building a website with the web crawlers and search functions you made so that others can find the right equipment for them as well? I’m not in the market, but it seems like something a lot of folks would find useful. Also curious about how you handled the roof penetration for your conduit, and what your long-term goals for generator-free battery life are. Lastly, how well have the calculations you made about insulation held up to reality?
These videos have a lot of great info. Thanks! I'm following the same USDS design you are but I can't seem to figure out how to satisfy the IRC insulation requirements. Are you just not following that or is there something I'm missing?
