As a professional builder in France, I must say you did very good. People tends not to think about moisture and vapor barrier and you did a pretty good job. Very good and informative video. If I may point one thing, when it comes to vapor barrier in France, we have to tape everything because of air pressure test. Thanks for your video, take care!
Awesome! We’re actually in Branson, MO, so it’s nice to hear about designing according to MO conditions and weather ...which is essentially experiencing every season in a week or day 😂
Really enjoyed watching your video. I'm waiting for dryer weather to begin my metal roof installation on my cabin. Your information aligns with my plan. I'm thinking I need more insulation to get a higher our value. Living in Tennessee the summers get pretty hot probably like Missouri.your references are ones that I watch quite frequently as well. Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
i have been watching you from Chile, i want to do the same kind of building and have been looking for something like this, so this videos came from heaven. Thank u very much. Keep on. Hugs!
I've always loved A frames. I'm wanting to build a smaller version for myself one day. Thank you for this informative video. You are very smart and explain so well the process. You are doing such a wonderful job!
Thank you for posting this. I'm thinking about building an a frame similar to this in texas, with outsulation like this. Not being a professional in this field I was slightly concerned with how the moisture would flow in a hot climate. Keep up the good work
Thank you for the explanation of this, I'm in the early stages of designing an A frame and like the look of the tongue and groove ceiling and exposed rafters. I'm wondering how you plan to run electric and plumbing? thanks
Awesome video so thank you. These type of structures have always peaked my interest. Thanks for informative and very interesting vid. Hope to see many more. Cheers from Canada.
Great video and explanations. This was the first of your videos I have seen and will look at more. I have been thinking about building using this method and you helped clarify a lot of info.
Thank you! Great video. I feel I learned a lot. I'm in the process of trying to understand how my A-frame home was built. I feel mine doesn't even have insulation. I'm not sure. Mine doesn't have tongue-and-groove panels. It's plywood construction paneling right on the A-frame beams. However, given that in winter the panels get really cold and in summer, really hot, tell me that maybe there's not insulation on them? Just a layer of Tyvek perhaps, then the roofing. I don't want to have to drill a hole to find out. Haha. I've been considering insulating via the inside, and covering the beams then with drywall, and finally tongue and groove interior paneling on top of that. Of course, that would REALLY insulate, since those beams are 4x6... and I can also run wiring for some recessed lighting. But the downside is, I lose a lot of interior space. Any advice? I'm in the mountains of Souther California. Dry air most of the year. Mid 20s in winter and 85F in summer.
Hi Jake… Just came across your channel and watched this video. Great info! I’m in Tulsa, OK and what you described as your concerns re performance in your climate zone sounds very similar to thoughts I’ve had. I’m CZ 3a, warm/humid. But in Tulsa we’re very close to CZ 4, mixed/humid. So, I’ve been thinking it might be best to pursue CZ 4 reqs(?). I’m wondering what your thoughts are now, after 2-3 years in the cabin. - Would you do anything differently? - Has the assembly performed as you had anticipated, based on the software data you had? Although solar isn’t something I’m looking at doing initially, I hope to do so after we’re settled in. I’ll look at costs and tech then, and see if it’s more manageable, budget-wise. So, our scenarios aren’t apples to apples, but still would like your thoughts. Great job on the cabin! TY, Chad
As I'm getting to know more about building my A-Frame (which is coming soon), this video gets better and better! Thank you! PS.: looking forward to the next video
Love it man. Absolutely killing it. Hope the tiny human is doing well and look forward to seeing more. I totally understand the struggle of finding time to shoot/edit/produce quality footage and want to say- thanks for taking the time to do it! It's not going unnoticed! Any plans for interior videos? Curious to see what route you go with the inside. It looks incredible thus far!
Very nice video. I have the same roof that was converted from shake to asphalt tile with 2 inch fiberglass insulation from the 70s. Needless to say it acts as a giant heat exchanger. Thanks for providing some options. Do you have any information on the T&G fire rating? I noticed no use of drywall.
@@OzarkMountainCabin Thanks again for the info. I'm trying to decide whether or not I'm going to add a layer of dry wall between the T&G and the tar paper. Without the ventilation the T&G will reach a higher temperature than outside which I've clocked at 115° with my thermal camera while the sun hits it. I've got to do something and would prefer to have the extra layer of foam instead of dry wall.
I found the video about the tongue & groove ceiling and ended up going back and watching every video. Your explanations are terrific! I learned more about all the things I didn't know, like R-factors. There were a couple of things I didn't get. Why the gaps upstairs between the floor boards and the wall? Are they for utilities? Or did you fill them in later? Also, how do you feel about not having side windows? Or did you decide to put in some skylights later? You said to tell you if there was something we wanted to see. I'd like to see and understand your solar set up, please. It's been almost a year now. How's it going? Did you finish? Will we get a new video soon? Can you tell I'm addicted yet?😂 Be well and be happy!
Not long at all.... A really good explanation and fantastically filmed and presented. The 'girder as ladder' especially made so much sense for a DIY build and the extra cost vs safety/time saved improvements was cool. Steve, at Off Grid Living Really, has an interesting take on using what he calls "robust panel installation" and being efficient off-grid. Are you familiar with his channel/idea? Basically, he goes way beyond 'typical' in total panel wattage/number of panels, seeking out the best per wattage pricing (he buys panel "seconds" by the pallet load.). Would love to see you do something innovative in energy as like you've done with the roof.
@@OzarkMountainCabin my off grid experience is primarily with microhydro, but the 'overpaneling' approach allows some cool ideas with conventional appliances, etc that go against the traditional idea that off grid living is all about avoiding electricity and over-using propane. It's kind of like a good microhydro system, you gotta figure out what to do with extra power. You did the smart thing getting the inverter and battery first! My next step would be to get a inexpensive propane cook top, online water heater, and dual fuel 5k generator, that will later be "back ups" to an 'over paneled' electrical/solar system. My 2 cents rant : )
@@et5222 those are really interesting points indeed. We're rural in Québec, so will be on hydropower for everything and have occasional outages. Building to PassivHaus insulation standards and 'over-batterying' will be our thing as we avoid propane or fossil fuel say all costs. Our back up heat is going to be a tiny wood stove in case of crisis, but over- insulating according to our energy model apparently means that we can let the house sit empty in minus Infinity temperatures and the pipes etc won't freeze unless it's more than two days without heat. This is important because home battery systems are crazy expensive still, ie $16,000 Canadian for a single installed. I could see the insulation as part of the battery system..
I found your channel from the video on framing for windows. I'm wanting to build a little art studio in a wooded area of my property with a big wall of windows. I've been looking at the most economical way of doing it myself that doesn't involve buying high-end architectural windows or off-the-shelf vinyl. I'd definitely be interested in a video on how you measured for the custom glass, and just general info on installing non-operable windows. There's clearly a lot of research behind your building decisions, and I'd be curious to know why you went the route you did with your windows. It looks fantastic!
These videos have a lot of great info. Thanks! I'm following the same USDS design you are but I can't seem to figure out how to satisfy the IRC insulation requirements. Are you just not following that or is there something I'm missing?
I enjoyed this, ive found this after watching the matt risinger and lots of other forums. Your cross battening alows air to come in both ways. Me im worried about insects eating wood !! Not sure if you have a video on how you approached your floor, are you completley wrapped in. On the floor do you have isulation inside of outside your wrap, if you did go for a complete wrap. Do you have a DC heat pump ?
This is an awesome project! I just found your channel last week and totally thought it was dead, but I'm so glad you're still making progress on it! How did you end up getting your windows? Are they standard sizes, or did you get them custom-made?
RE: Passive house when power is out, mold. Are you referring to losing power to your mechanical ventilation (HRV/ERV) and the humidity building up? You could slightly open a window until power is back on. Losing power while you're not there? Leave an inaccessible (from outside) window open. Having control over how much air is moving (via window) seems way better than the randomness of a non-airtight house.
@@OzarkMountainCabin Good to know, I was wondering about this as well. We’re thinking of building PassivHaus for a chalet an hour north of Montréal, ie two hours north of Burlington VT, climate region six I believe. I’m not sure about your estimates of our humidity levels either btw. ;) -pretty much everyone leans toward a heat pump now because of cheap carbon free electricity and to have cooling in summer. (We get in the low nineties Fahrenheit and 90% humidity in summer, and down to minus forty F in winter and 10% humidity.) Anyway, very entertaining and informative, thanks for doing this video and I’ve subscribed to see how things evolve -!
how much did you pay for spruce 2x6 boards for the roof? also did you put one 3 inch layer of rigid board, or two in the video it shows two layers one overlapping another? thanks
Love you videos! Just stumbled upon your channel. Sorry if this has been asked before, but can you share how much your completed A-Frame cost? I want to build one on my lot in Branson on the Taneycomo River.
So happy to have found your channel today! My husband and I are talking about building an a-frame in MO :) What sort of system did you use at the ends of the roof in order to maintain ventilation while keeping critters out of the space between the steel/EPS and also create a nice finished look?
Im just wondering, how big of an Aframe can you build practically? I want to build something 1.5 x larger than your one as ill have kids by the time well build. Would the process be much different? Should I reconsider wood type and build method?
Good explanations using layman terms. What did you do for your flooring, both sub and finished? Is this built on a slab or framed over open space? How did you insulate the floor?
Hey Jake, thank you for the amazing videos. I'm thinking of building an A-frame in Chiba Prefecture, Japan, and I'm going through all your videos for a second time. Japan is kinda scary for DIY construction because of typhoons, earthquakes and tsunamis haha I noticed you didn't add a layer of OSB on top of the insulation (something you mentioned you were going to include in a previous video). Any reason for that?
We are planning to build an A-frame with a 28-foot span. We want to do a similar build to yours- 6ft centers with T&G sheathing, but we need a 28ft A with a 24/12 pitch. Have you seen any public domain drawings with those specs?
The only public domain drawings I know of are the ones NDSU has - they have at least three different A-frame ones though: www.ag.ndsu.edu/extension-aben/buildingplans
Great Job! Just found your videos and I appreciate how thorough and straight forward your explanations are. No BS and very honest. Thanks. Did you draw up your own plans? Or did you buy, borrow plans from someone. I'm planning to build next year, but haven't settled on plans yet. I like how your A Frame looks and is proportioned. I'd love to know whether you can share the plans or where they might be available (if you purchased them). - Thanks, Sofie
What do you think about insulation on the inside of your A frame. We have an A frame and just put a standing seam roof on and added 4 inch solid foam insulation on the outside. I was thinking about doing someone the inside also. My upright A frame lumber are 2 by 8's. I was thinking of filling that space with fiberglass and putting tongue and groove on top of that. What do you think of that?
Sure, there's a lot of assemblies that are set up like that! I'd look for something that's a recommended assembly - like a recommended set of layers, materials and thickness ranges - there's some non-intuitive stuff where the relative thicknesses of the inside and outside insulation can cause condensation. If you add a vapor-impermeable layer on the inside of the wood, like a vapor barrier or foam board insulation, that would restrict the woods ability to dry, so you'd want to be careful that whatever you do allows some way for the assembly to breathe still
Hey Jake just found your channel! Amazing content! Thank you so much. I'm really liking your approach and will probably do something similar on my a-frame build in NC. I was wandering about how you are insulating the T&G assembly at a point of exit from the interior to the exterior? Basically at the front wall of the house?
Good afternoon. I had a question about the r10 insulation boards you are using on the exterior. Do you feel it would be sufficient enough for Maine climate? With wood heating. My wife and I currently live in a military tent, and are planning to build very similar building. I would love to talk with you more if it’s okay. Thank you in advance, and for the videos you have posted already. I can write my email if you reply back .
Just discovered your channel! Excellent work on completing all of this. I'm interested in building my own A-Frame house for permanent living to survive Canadian winters in about 2 years time. Do you have any advice for what I can start learning now? Are there things I should start planning out before I get started? I was taking a woodworking class, but it was cancelled due to COVID. Hopefully I can restart when things have cleared up.
Can you tell me how you insulated your Aframe rafters? I'm building an Aframe with vented rafters all the way to the ridge but exposing my fiberglass insulation, and I'm afriad of mice getting in.
@@OzarkMountainCabin Can you take a look at my aframe insualtion and tell me if you see any prooblems drive.google.com/file/d/1EvMvhOQ8WrY1OgLFbnUY8GogtNaTYdND/view?usp=sharing
Have heard, & also seen other videos where the metal roof edging is tucked underneath the panels so water doesn’t get sucked into/under.? See your edging on top. Thx
@@OzarkMountainCabin oh that was something thanks for that! but I was referring to your vertical edge ends of the roof looked like corner edging strip was screwed on top of long panel. Thought water could wick under there maybe not
Perfect explanation of moisture movement at the end, great series. I’ll be very curious to see how much moisture you can drain in winter from behind that EPS. I’m in Canada and for moisture management reasons will go with rock wool (probably the Roxul compress Board product) and maximize our insulation values, eg to r-50 if possible. Also it looks like your vapor barrier is old school tar paper rather than a more fancy product, correct? I’d be curious how you made the decision and how long the warranty runs - failure there seems like a nightmare to me. Off to watch the rest of your series here.
I've been very much intrigued by exterior mounted roof insulation, mounted in this way with the 2x4 battens giving structure to mount the steel sheeting. In the cold-Canada climate, it is starting to gain traction in concert with standard batts-in-the-rafter to really beef up the performance of the envelope. It seems like you're not targeting anything specifically in terms of air tightness (blower door testing, air changes per hour, etc.), but you seem to be up on the science nonetheless. The question I'm circling around to, that I'm hoping you might be able to shed some light on is as follows: If airtightness is a high priority in the build, is it problematic mounting the vertical battens with screws that are going to perforate the air barrier at every fastening point? It seems like there is a catch-22 in needing to mount the battens to the T&G for structure, but in doing so poking a ton of holes in your air barrier. Please let me know if this has kept you up as many nights as it has myself!
Nice job! Are you willing to share the dimensions? And maybe the floor plans and blueprints if its possible? Could be a great startpoint for anybody. Since no one in the A-frame community is willing to share their blueprints. :)
Impressive build. I will be tackling something similar in SW France at some point in 2021. Would you be willing to share a materials list and the dimensions? ATB
really helpful video thank you for uploading it. I'm building an A frame myself and as i want exposed beams I also want to do exterior insulation. my question is is there a chance of those EPS panels to start to rot or be compromised in any way? is there any downside or risk to using them as insulation in the way that you have? thanks in advance!
EPS = Expanded PolyStyrene foam. Nothing "eats" it, but WILL burrow thru it. Use firebreaks! (Polystyrene is a solid form of gasoline) That London highrise that was burning on the outside a while back, that was sheathed in EPS without a firebreak.
Ya know....you could have just given me a holler and we probably could have came to help. We aren't buying into this 'Covert I.D. BS and are healthy able bodies. ;) You did good anyway. I like the fact that you didn't use the word 'Can't' and got it done anyway.
Hey man, I indulged your long version of why 3 inches. Statistics should come out in your favor! Like your approach. What did you write this simulation in (what language?). Just curious.
@@OzarkMountainCabin appreciate the explanation! I do not know to work in Go, will try and see what I can do with Python. Thanks and looking forward to viewing your progress with the cabin.
Hey man I stumbled into your channel while doing cabin research. I'm an Architect in Texas working on an A frame design. Is yours based of the old department of agriculture plans? I was so happy to find this channel since it appears to be the same structural system!
@@OzarkMountainCabin That is fantastic, it looks great so far! I do have a lot of questions and will probably have more as I progress the drawing set. I based my design off the same plan but increased the height, I also have made the assumption to do so will require deeper members, closer to what is sized on plan 6004 and with the intent of using an 8' bay....So questions! 1.Since there are no cavity walls at the interior perimeter of the cabin how do plan on running outlets and conduit? (I did notice on your cathedral ceiling video conduit running the vertical length of the last front bay.) 2. What is your floor assembly at level 01, insulation etc? 3. I'm attempting an r-30 roof as this will be a home in Colorado, I need to minimize the roof thickness to also fasten a standing seam roof, what made you size up your purlins to 2x4's? was this for airgap and a robust scaffold? I'm pondering the same setup of purlin pattern but with 1x4's and poly iso to get the roof thickness to a minimum and not end up needing a 12" fastener to reach the tongue and groove! Like I said I'm an Architect so please feel free to ask any questions on constructions details as well! Thanks for sharing your project on youtube!!! Keep hammering!
Honestly really good! We did this whole summer without the generator, just solar panels, batteries and AC running the whole time. Winter we still need to run the wood stove for comfort heat, but it's 100% livable year around. We will see when a 100-year winter cold comes in one of these days, but at least so far so good.
Here in Europe there are PV driven solar hot air collectors to keep cabins and cellars dry: GRAMMER Solar TWINSOLAR or SolarVenti or Scansun. you can also build these yourself from window screen: www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/ScreenAbsorber/ScreenAbsorber.htm www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/AirColTesting/ScreenCollector/Building.htm Together with IoT temperature/humidity sensors that should do a pretty good job to keep mould out.
@@OzarkMountainCabin thank you very much for your reply!!! Don’t worry about being a bad youtuber, I understand that you have a life outside of the internet. My wife has a channel too and it takes a lot of time to keep it going. I’m glad you guys are doing well! Have you moved in yet? So we actually have insulation inside our military tent. It actually looks like a cabin on the inside. I do see your point in saving money long term in heating. We are planning to put two layers of r10 foam boards. So r20 in total. I plan on keeping the framing exposed as you did, and don’t want to mess with finerglass insulation and doing the t&g on the inside. As one of your points in a t&g video you made. I am planning on making the T&g my self though, to save on cost. I am going to use a dado blade on my tablesaw and doing it this way. I know it’s a lot of work, but the savings is substantial. I even considered buying a shaper machine. What I haven’t figured out yet is the size of the beams I’m going to use for foundation and how far to space concrete piers. I was thinking 3 2x10’s sandwich together, possibly 4. Do you think 8ft or 10ft on concrete spacing? There will be 3 rows and 3 beams running. My other dilema is in the roof top. With the insulation adding 8” from both sides. I ether have to cut the high of the A frame, or go for longer metal roof. Because I’d like to use 2 12’ panels. Which would be just shy of 24’ long. Not sure about this yet. Thank you again!!!!
