Are these the standard govee permanent lights or the pro versions. Looking at doing install on my house this spring. Renting a bucket lift. I measured my govee pros and they measure 1 3/8" which would be too large for the channel you have used.
Anyone have a solution to mount along a roofline with no sofffit / drip edge? I have a cathedral style roofline, so on 2 sides of the house it’s just the roof flush with the wall. Do they make any L channels to either slide under the roof shingle edge or attach to the side of the exterior wall and point them down?
I love this idea. I bought some and when I try to put the govee pro outdoor lights into the channel the light is just barely to wide. Are you doing anything else besides cutting out a notch and putting back on the cover? Does the notch in the raceway not impact the cover back on it being "flush"? I doesnt look like it in the video.
One more thing, my kit was 15@ 16.9x1.18x.60 (254” $19.99) vs yours 14@ 15.7x1.18x.63 (220” $19.99). I regretfully say I had more waste in length and the .60 vs .63 left a bulging effect around the weatherproof connections.
@Sunny sharif , thanks for the video and earlier reply. I did go with a diff kit but large equivalent and so glad I didn’t go medium. Perfect fit with trimming four snips for each pixel. Though I did tear off each trim peice around each light for aesthetics. Painted sides and tops. Looks so amazing and seamless I knew my HOA would go for the bare wires. Super thanks!!!
What size raceway Chanel did you get medium or the large and how many did you have to buy? I only plan on using about 2 to 3 inches per led just enough for it to stick nicely flat. I just installed 3 segments today and some are already falling because my soffits are similar to yours mine have bumbs where the holes were punched out
What area do you live in? Im just curious how the pvc will hold up to heat. Even if it doesnt warp, im wondering how much it will expand/contract with temperature changes. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video, I received a quote for professional install of 12k for the whole house. Your genius idea is the way to go, best DIY install on RU-vid. Thank you!
I actually thought about this , just thought it was way to expensive to cover my house since these kits come with minimal coverage. Figured if i was gonna spend a couple more bucks , id honestly just rather pay for a professional install
I did this panel a couple years ago. Love it for my switched accessories. Now looking to wire in usb receptacle and GMRS radio. Can I use this box without the relay to act as a dues box? Any thoughts on how to do this?
I have the Bussman relay box 15303-5 - a number of switches send a ground signal to activate the relay (vs a + trigger) - is there a way to trigger the a / or some relays (pin 86) on the 15303-5 using a ground signal ?
@@5sunny01 that was my first adventure. Two 10 amp fuses good. I can activate the horn from fuse holder. It’s just not receiving the activation from steering wheel button. Thank you!
In my opinion you just wasted time and paint... The reason I say that is because it will not stick to the surface your putting it on... ( long)... And I like the wheels that are on there.... I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the same Wheels .. 265/70/17 are the tires I have on it... And I wouldn't change the look... (Just saying)..
Well to be honest with you, when I did this which was a long time ago, I wanted black wheels and couldn’t afford it so this was the cheapest and best way to do the wheels without damaging them Incase I wanted to go back to the original look. So that was the best solution and then I sold my jeep after 3 years of doing it and it was still intact when I sold it. If you prepare right and do it right, it can last a long time. I did the front grill also and that was also there for 3 years and in good shape and went through tons of car washes
Because of the loads for safety reasons if it was a small gauge wire it would put high load and can catch on fire. I never had any issues and still gojng strong
So the power doesn't change after the relay and the run is longer but you put a thinner guage wire and you aren't worried about that heating up and causing fire.
@@Leapdog01 that’s why there is a fuse in the relay box, also use a good quality wire and make sure accessory used is not higher powered, you will be ok
Great video series. Something I'm not completely clear on is the ground. How is it all connected? In this video you have the ground wire from the switches going straight to the relay panel but what isn't shown is from there to common chassis ground? When your accessories are wired the ground wire for each should go nearby each accessory. The circuit isn't complete if the ground from the relay panel is not connected to the same ground plane. At the battery you connected the positive with a breaker but didn't mention the ground at the relay buss going to accessories. Could you clear up how you completed the ground side of the circuit?
The the ground wire gets attached to the body or any negative nut on the body. There are many locations you can add, I will be making another video soon showing how to connect an accessory.
Yes. I understand. You didn't ground the relay panel to the body of the vehicle. The circuit will be incomplete and nothing will function. Unless you did and just didn't show this in the video.. did you run another wire from the negative buss on the panel to the body of the vehicle?
can you show what the inline fuse looks like? on the vid it looks like you just soldered the wire into it. i was thinking if there is a T-splice connector to address this but i'm curious as to what the inline fuse you are referring to looks like
In order to may peoples' lives WAY easier: 0:16 - "step 1" - 10mm 0:44 - "step 3" - 4 screws- torx 25 0:52 - "step 4" - 2 screws- philips 1:05 - "step 5" - "button screws"- torx 10 *Missing step* - there are 2 screws (1 on either side of the 10mm bolts from step 1 [ can see at 0:25 ]- torx 20 Jeep LOVES to make things inconsistent :smh:
