My name is Chad Stanton. I offer free woodworking videos with 20 years of professional experience. I'm a self-employed full-time furniture maker, a former licensed contractor, a member of the Professional Remodeling Organization and Society of American Period Furniture Makers, and a former contributing editor for American Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking Magazine.
Wood Choppin' Time has been offering videos on RU-vid since 2008 and we expect to be around for much longer. Stick around and Subscribe and see what Wood Choppin' Time is all about!
Can you tell me how to turn that cross hair on and off? Mine does not come on and I need to know if it's a problem with the machine or if something got turned off some how?
Save your money on sealing products, they are expensive and they do not stop cracking. Sometimes they may reduce it a little bit but usually there is no noticeable difference from untreated logs/boards.
I’ll have to search your videos in case you’ve already addressed this topic, but how to determine rake, splay, sightline, and resultant would be my request. You teach well, breaking down concepts into understandable parts. All if the videos on rake, splay, and sightlines are way too complicated and wordy, rocket science. There’s got to be a clearer explanation somewhere…
Great demo for me as i just bought that router bit for a project I'm about to start. I had a general idea on setup but those details you gave are a great guide and time saver.
You are correct. The string used was twine and it stretches a lot. It’s better to use a stronger string. But the method does work. Try it and let me know.
This is not correct. The string loop does not go around the three nails. It goes around two nails located at one of the foci and the opposite perimeter point of the desired ellipse. This is why the ellipse in this video does not intersect the intended points on the minor axis of the ellipse.
Longer should ask for their machine back when this "reviewer" says the following about adjusting the belt tension; "Ah! I didn’t realize that was necessary. I will look into that. Scheeese.
This is a pretty cool device and seems fairly reasonable for what you're getting at that strong of a laser. A couple of questions: * With your small riser blocks, is it stable enough to not tip them over when doing the higher placement that had the feet being narrow? * If you need to do something on a larger piece, does it have a way to let you move the material underneath to "find" the next placement spot?
It has been stable the few times I’ve used my riser blocks. But currently I’m not engraving really thick material. The machine gives several inches of travel in adjustments. So using the blocks are not too common
This is brilliant. I wish I had seen your video before installing drawer glides. Would have saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Next time! Thanks for making such a great, easy-to-follow video.
Maybe I'm an outlier, but I see woodworking as, well, working wood. You can do that with planes, saws, drill presses, jointers, cabinet saws, CNC routers, laser engravers, or whatever. Craftsmanship is the expert use of whatever tools one uses.
I would agree with you. As long as the design comes from an individual. Whichever tools is used to accomplish the task doesn't matter. However, I will say that being a semi-decent carver, it took years of practice, and the CNC can outdo me. That is a little disappointing, but it might be time to hang it up.
@@danielelse3914 this is true. I actually do enjoy my hands hold the tools and shaping the wood. I won’t give up carving but for a paying job, cnc is the way to go
Just bought the Freud bit. Making 2vanities for our new house and this will take a lot of frustration out of the builds. Great job, no music, just great tutorial.
I won't lie, it's a lot of learning new stuff. It can be exciting and yet so frustrating. But like anything, you have to put in the time to get the results. Thanks for watching.
This seems to be a higher quality tool and I'm so glad to see that it has a much safer substrate. I'll be interested to know in a year or two if you feel that the laser cutter is a profitable piece of equipment. I've watched a few other RU-vidrs who admitted that they have not used the item as much as they thought they might and are not quite getting their money's worth. From your other candid assessments of workshop equipment I know that you will take an objective long view of the economic viability of a good laser cutter. Thanks Chad, always very enjoyable and interesting.
Yes, lasers and CNC machines are tools that require more time and effort to set them up and use them. I would say unless you plan on making multiples of something, and want to repeat it again in the future, then maybe you may not want one. But I have been making mine work overtime and later I am excited to show everyone what they can do. Thanks for watching and commenting Mark.
I do understand what you are saying. A couple of years ago I would never ever consider using software and computers. However, I have found it is allowing me to be much more creative, it's making my work faster, and I'm able to execute things more precisely. I still have concerns about where AI might take this, but right now I still feel I am the designer and these machines are tools for the job. I appreciate your comment.
I have built 11 workbenchs in my quest to have the perfect workbench. Your second design is awesome. Best that i have ever seen. I integrated the half lap dovetail early in my first workbench. It took me a lot longer to discover the need for a wide rop rail like the Nicholson bench . I love the 8 degree angled legs similar to a Moravian. What I never got right is the thick top with the tool tray in the middle. That is genuus. I will use (3) 2 inch thick x 11 inch wide x 9 feet long LVL' s that have been flattened for the top and one side. I found a source for the LVL's at $ 15 each. I have bought 3 books, built 2 benches, and have been researching benches for 2 years. Your second bench is the answer. Great work! You should write your own Workbench book! Are the plans for the second bench? Love your videos.
Sargent VBM planes made between 1910 and 1918 are as good or better than Stanley's of any vintage . Heavier castings, thicker blades, and rear totes placed farther back make these planes better. I collected Stanley type 10 and 11's for 25 years before I found my first Sargent VBM . Now I only buy Sargent VBM's. My Stanley's stay on a display shelf. My Sargents are on my workbebch. Low beaded front knobs, east indian rosewood knob and totes, folded lateral adj levers, VBM stamped on the blade and the lever cap indicate planes made by Sargent from the 1910 to 1918 . Fulton and Blue Grass are other brands that were made by Sargent during that era . The Fulton and Sargent VBM's are usually cheaper when you find them . George Sargent set out to complete with Stanley during that period and came out with a better plane. Bought 22" Fulton Jointer at an auction for $35. It is better than any other jointer in my collection. I have 6 other Stanley and Sargent jointer planes that i paid a lot more for. So if you find a Sargent VBM of that era, give it a try. you may be pleasantly surprised. Great video
I've been looking to buy a Kung Fu wooden dummy and cracking of the wooden post seems to be a big problem with some of them. I'm not sure what they coat that center wooden post with but could keeping that main body "oiled" reduce or eliminate that cracking. Moisture (water) evaporates quicker than a linseed oil so would that help prevent cracking?
I had a piece of black walnut cut 13" x 36" x 1.25" for a counter top on a small cabinet. Within a couple of days it started splitting. if I oil it will it close up. I was going to put polyurethane on it but was afraid to after it started spliting.
Unfortunately in my experience it will not close up with oil on it. It probably wasn’t completely dry when it was cut and milled. The moisture leaving made it shrink and crack. Try to make the crack a feature and not a flaw.
