MUST HAVE for Making Drawers 

Your patient detailed explanations are appreciated. Thank you for making these tutorials.

Just bought the Freud bit. Making 2vanities for our new house and this will take a lot of frustration out of the builds. Great job, no music, just great tutorial.

Chad, thanks for admitting that you sometimes have trouble figuring things out. Gives me a boost in confidence. I appreciate this demo.

All in all, this is one of the best videos out there on this subject, you covered a lot of ground and answered the questions that I am sure many had. Nice Work Chad.

Used the Freud 99-240 for the first time today on 1/2 test plywood results were great easiest box ever almost self-aligning during glue up.

Good Job Chad

Nicely done video .

Thanks Chad, that really helps tremendously. An you explain really well.

I just bought the bit and am getting ready to make the drawers. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

Thank you, this is a great institutional video.

Thanks for the video. I've wondered about that bit and whether I might find it useful. I really like the idea about making the drawer sides oversized and trimming off any damage that might come from routing. I think that has a lot of other applications even if you aren't using this kind of bit.

Thanks Chad for the bit demo. I like for solid wood drawers through dovetails for the front and rabbit and dado for the rear. Thanks to your hand cut dovetails demos mine have improved greatly.

I really like how you talk, and explain your videos. You’re going to have a growing following!

Chad, I am over here in Mother England. Great presentation, Thanks.

Great demo for me as i just bought that router bit for a project I'm about to start. I had a general idea on setup but those details you gave are a great guide and time saver.

Thanks for a great video, Chad. Bill

This is excellent. Very informative. I’m buying the Freud bit right now. Well done!

Many people have trouble setting up this type of router bit because it is in the family of the infamous "Lock Miter Router Bit" like anything in life each person takes less or more time to get the hang of it but once it is achieved it's there for life and really not all that difficult to set up. I have this bit but prefer the Lock Miter that will not show end grain like the one in this video. I also prefer the 1/4, 1/4 table saw system to make drawers when I'm not dovetailing.

This is the first time I’ve seen one of your videos and believe me it won’t be the last. Well presented and I subscribed instantly. There are a lot of fly by nighters on utube that miss the mark with their information but you have given clear concise information that even a Neanderthal like me can understand. Thanks mate and now to binge watch some more of your videos. Kind regards from Sydney Australia

Excellent demo vid with some good tips. Thanks!

Chad, thanks for the reminder about drawer locking bits. I have a drawer in an upcoming project and totally forgot about these bits. One will be perfect for the drawer I’m making. I do plan to add some decorative dowels. Someone else suggested putting them in at an angle. Good idea. Your idea of making the drawer parts wider and cutting them down to final size is super. That’s something I never thought to do so I’ll give it a try. While I miss seeing your frequent videos I know you’re busy making things. That’s great. I hope all is well.

Thanks Chad I’ve had that bit for years tried it didn’t work out well so I set aside. Looks like I am making setup blocks.

Great tips on using this particular bit. Thanks for the demo.

Thanks for your hard work! looks cool. I might add the measurement of the fence too. just in case something happened to the routed end on the template.

thanks

Thanks Chad, un video muy útil 👍

Oh your going to get me in trouble with the wife (now I want to buy more router bits)!

Nice, some router bits really require serious figuring out :) Regarding the wood chip-out: I thought it was because the push block you use already contains a groove at the bottom, so there are places where there is nothing to stop the wood splintering. If your were to swap it around and work with a full edge, then the router bit would always have some adjacent wood to bite in, reducing the chip-out. However, you'd need to use a new fresh edge each time you make a router pass, which is a bit overkill I guess.

Question: It looks like you have to move the fence after running fronts/backs so that you aren't using one setup for the entire process.

Thanks for this video. I use this bit and was always frustrated with the set up, finally when I got everything correct I used some scrap hdpe plastic blocks to make setup jig. and they have served as my go to set up for this bit.

Do you have to adjust the length of the sides and ends using this bit in order to get to the desired drawer size?

respeto a quien respeto merese .gracias maestro

What is your rational for arriving at the setup dimensions. Is it based on math or your trial and error. I'd like to know so I could see if the math translates to different thickness wood.

Is this the same as a 45 degree locking bit? I have one and there is an optional setup piece (that I don’t have). Thanks for the info.

I know you are a legend and I use to watch you back in the day....2018 But, I am curious why you do not use the 1/4x1/4x1/4 method ..also know as the half/half/half method. Or even the Half Bind Lock Joint? They both seem just as strong as yours and IMO, much easier to do. And finally, with all due respect, it looks like this video was filmed in the 90's?

Can it be used on White Melamine board?

So it’s the same set up for both boards just run flat and the other upright

Tried the half/half method?

Thanks for letting us see your drawers Chad. (Sorry.)

Zero clearance avoids tear-out. Seems obvious.

Have you noticed that you have the very strange habit of starting two-thirds of your sentences with the word “now,” and the other third seem to start with the word “so”?