It's mechanical for the odometer and trip, motor driven via worm gears and so on in much the same way as older vehicles with a cable drive. To wind them back, they have to be physically disassembled and manipulated. Typical indications of this are misaligned digits, but it's often easier to buy a replacement speedo that's showing a lower mileage and just swap it out - no indication at all then that anything's been done. Given the age they are now (thirty years!) using mileage as an indication of vehicle condition is probably a bad idea. Unless you have something like MOT test history with steadily advancing mileage, just assume the odo is wrong and go by condition of the car as indicated by an inspection by someone familiar with them.
Thank you for a very good video. This is also a great opportunity to replace the memory backup capacitor. It's the silver and black component behind the VFD in the top left corner @2:43. It is a supercapacitor with a component value of 0.047F/5.5v
Thanks for the good tutorial. Had the same issue on my Yamaha V361. On mine the array was soldered onto the board but other than that the disassembly was very similar. Works perfectly again now! :)
Thanks - I did all this, but in testing before full reassembly, I have to push on the volume knob to create better contact and make it work right. I have the volume assembly back together as tight as it will go. All the cleaning also removed all the factory grease and the knob moves a lot more freely with some friction. Ideas on either of these?
Wiping the "fingers" of the control with a paper towel as shown here probably bent them downwards slightly, even if by only a few thousands of an inch (this was kind of a brute force technique and I don't recommend it). You can probably hook those contacts with a dental pic or jewelers screwdriver and bend them upwards slightly. *Very very slightly*. If you have a set of cheap digital calipers with a depth measurement option you can measure the height of the "fingers" first as a reference and then bend them up just a couple thousands. The best way to clean the pie-plate disc and contact fingers is to gently polish them with a pencil eraser after degreasing them. Use a light touch and don't leave bits of rubber behind. As for the control not feeling the same afterwards after you cleaned it, the original silicone lubricant has a viscous consistency imilar to honey. It really wasn't necessary to remove the grease from the shaft and bushing, but if you don't have a similar honey-like silicone lubricant easily available, clear transistor-heatsink grease, or Teflon "Super-Lube", will work. Grease the shaft and bushing, and put a thin, very light coat of the lube on the pieplate disc. It won't feel quite the same as the original lubricant but it will feel a lot better than your currently unlubricated control.
I just had to rewrite my comment because a lot has happened since I posted my question. I found a killer amp at a great price and really wanted to give the component world of home audio a second chance. So, after getting my extremely high-end Yamaha find from a 2nd-hand shop, I get it home to find this problem we have here. I almost busted some very expensive speakers while testing. After watching the video, I got super excited and I found some "CRC Electronic Cleaner" at my local hardware store for $9.99. My model was different and for second there I thought I was lucky and they added a way to access the control from the front. Nope. You have to do it just like in the video. For me, I had to pull only 1 ribbon cable and had some extra lock-nuts to remove from the front cover but the process is exactly the same. It took me about 1.5 hours to complete because I decided while in Rome, I would clean other parts inside the unit. After fully assembling, connecting front A/B and Center channel, powering up and adjusting the volume control up and down. It was a beautiful moment that can never be replicated. Thank you for adding meaningful youtube content, I really learned something today
Just fixed a Yamaha HTR 5550 someone had left in their free pile with this, now it works great, so thanks! It didn't come with its remote, so I didn't have that option.
3 thinks, never remove the lubricant between shaft and case, it need to be dumper grease (if you remove apply new dumper grace). second, never spray on pcb or any parts (spray on cleaning tools), third, after cleaning apply new special grease (not bumper grease) on contacts. your method is leading to totally damage encoder and contacts. its like removing old oil from engine, cleaning and running without new oil.
I don't doubt that if it was under the same stresses as an engine removing the grease would be catastrophic. Thankfully, it's only under the stresses of a volume control and has so far lasted about ten years without any further maintenance😂 Having wilfully dumped various solvents directly on to PCBs and other assemblies over the years with no ill effects, I'm going to continue to do so. I think you're mistaking a £10 piece of ebay salvage for something that deserves care and attention paying to it!
@@disgruntledgoat this is unprofessional repair, and it should never teach people to do very bad job. learn about it before arguing. yes, you can do wherever you want but don’t learn bad practice people. therefore, so many failures we have around the world as uneducated people are trying to be smart. second, if that would not be necessary so the companies and factories would do the same lie you but 100% of production and educated engineers don’t do what you did.
@@Johny666EU I think you need to relax a little there, chap! You seem to be extremely angry about how I successfully fixed a ten-quid amp's volume control using random stuff I had lying around 😂 I completely agree with your assertion that there are better ways of doing this particular repair, however I consider them overkill and excessive in this instance. My uni tutor told me more than once: "'Perfection' is the enemy of 'good enough'". Does that mean you should do a sloppy or insufficient job? Absolutely not, but it does mean you shouldn't spend time and effort on something that doesn't warrant time and effort being spent on it, namely cleaning the crap from a volume control on a £10 amp 😁 The repair was effective, proportionate and has lasted longer than the original volume control did before malfunctioning, and therefore I suggest that both the method is reasonable and result is satisfactory in this instance.
Cheers for the vid, very interesting. I have a JDM ST205 and just fitted the speedo from my UK ST202 but the speed is now reading far to low, which isn't totally unexpected as the box which made the KPH read as MPH is still fitted. I'm hoping removing this and just fitting the ECU cheat will do the trick. I was looking to swop out the gearbox speed sensor also but found they are different between the ST205 & St202.
just did that, it solved the volume problem on my Yamaha DSP-AX620 -- thanks for that! ;) -- but now the "set menu" only displays point 9 and 10, all the others are gone. this amp is a mess! :D
Even tho it’s not healthy it’s a 1hz you could get a fair few more miles out of that without a turbo the rings would be fucked and you would just have to keep topping it up with oil but if that’s like ur only car and you have to go to work with it I doubt it would let you down any time soon
Brilliant Harry my old dsp-ax620 volume control has been bugging me for years. Didn't even have to strip it down. Just pulled the knob off and to the left of the spindle there's a gap(next to white block). Gave it a good squirt of Deoxit D5 and after a few rotations couldn't believe my ears and eyes. Obviously the D5 got in there and worked. Perfect. Many thanks Regards John.
Hey Harry did you do this because you had low oil pressure ,I’ve got a 1 hdt And right now having the timing belt ,oil pressure and alternator lights coming on the dash. The oil pressure gauge reads low as I have heard the main bearing wear contribute s to low oil pressure ...?..??
Hi John, This was all pre-emptive - the 1HD-T has a habit for eating its big-end bearing shells when used with high-sulphur oils, if I remember correctly. That said, the oil pressure gauge _ALWAYS_ reads low and the t-belt, oil pressure and alternator lights coming on simultaneously is another fault - electrical this time - IIRC there is a diode somewhere that needs replacing, but again don't trust my memory! Get a mechanical gauge on an oil port somewhere if you're concerned about oil pressure, but unless your big-end bearings are knocking and banging, I'm fairly sure your oil pressure will be fine. Get it checked out by someone familiar with the vehicle (like Julian at Overland Cruisers) if you have any doubts, though!
Harry thank you very much. I had this problem for many years and i was thinking of buying another one. But after following your perfect video the volume control works again as if it was new.
I think he forgot that part. Also you could probably get the same results by simply spraying some contact cleaner in through the front panel/knob & potentially save yourself from having to disassemble the whole unit
The stuff I sprayed on was contact-cleaning lubricant. The grease seemed to be part of the problem in that it was getting wedged under the fingers of the encoder and causing a bad contact, so none went back in. Ten years on and it's still working fine, and that's longer than from the time it was bought until the control started to go dodgy, so I consider it the correct decision :-)
Not sure. I think it was originally added by the manufacturer to give it that nice damped feeling when you spin it. I did one without the grease and the control spun way more freely than the original. Add grease to taste, I guess, or limit it to around where the encoder shaft passes through the upper casing to regain at least a bit of the "premium" damped feeling of the original.
Hi Harry I followed the instruction. Clean the knob inside and put it back. The unit is now switching on for few seconds then switch off. Please let know if I am doing anything wrong. Thx
What was the point of the video? I’m an A grade mechanic, engineer and diesel fuel injection specialist. What are u getting at? The fact most idiots can’t build the injectors properly or time a pump. 🤦🏻♂️
Hello good Sir, I have recently bought an RX8 instrument cluster and I wish to control it via CAN from an Arduino. Unfortunately the cantanko link to the reverse engineering of the cluster is no longer available. And so I have no idea where to start from and where I can get the ID's for understanding and controlling the cluster, do you have any idea how can I access the info from that link or do you have it "stored" somewhere so that you could share it? Thank you very much in advance!!!
Man you are an absolute lifesaver!!! I did not have high hopes on getting a response, more so, getting a positive one so quick! I am extremly grateful and I hope this will help me in my work. I am a young engineer and I have little to no experience and I want to learn new things so I hope what I don’t get stuck along the way because sometimes things get a bit overwhelming especially when you learn all by yourself. Thank you again and if I have any questions I hope I can ask you in the future(related to this cluster). Wish you the best!
The volume knob on my Sony HCD-CP1 stereo wasn't working. Turning the knob didn't work. It raised/lowered by equal amounts and overall sat in place. Sometimes when I tried to raise the volume it instead went and lowered the volume! I didn't have any cleaning solution or anything. So I tried simply cleaning the contact area with a household paper towel from the kitchen. Surprisingly it worked. The volume knob now behaves as it should. I hope this won't cause any problems long term? The CD reader was also having trouble reading discs, so I wiped the lens with one of those wet wipes intended for cleaning glasses. For the first time in years the stereo works. Now I only have to figure out how to fix the remote control. I tried disassembling and cleaning it, but button function is still erratic. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I don't know why.
I would certainly hope it washes out otherwise I think you've got bigger problems! In all seriousness, as it's on bearing surfaces that have a high pressure oil feed, I'm guessing it'd be flushed out of there reasonably quickly. It is essentially taking the place of assembly lube.
