Raised going to my grandparents (Mamaw & Papaw's) farm every Sunday here in Tennessee, it was natural to fall in love with country living. Now, with grandchildren of our own, leaving the suburbs & buying our new land, we invite you to join us as we transform 60 raw acres into "The Lovely Place". Together, here we will learn everything about creating a self sufficient, sustainable and secure life while developing a homestead and future farm. We'll grow gardens for food, raise animals for live stock, and learn to use all the tools a family may need to survive in these difficult times. Buying equipment, like a tractor, a bush hog, and attachments like a root rake grapple, a box blade, & other 3-point implements. Fun toys like our Polaris Ranger & Sportsman. Building driveways, pole barns & ponds, with the goal of using the creek for hydro power, the sun for solar power, & harvesting rain water for drinking water! Working like it's all up to us and praying like it's all up to God.
Mr. Sean, still loving your videos! Quick question, I remember when you put the undercoating on your batwing. I see it has held up for the most part. How many times would you say you mowed with the unit, since you applied the undercoat? I am thinking about doing mine. Thank you for your time, be blessed!!
@@jamesstakes6659 hey James! Well, let me think about that. I would almost have to go back and watch the videos to see when I did that lol but I think I did that at the end of a season so I’m guessing I have mowed about 12 times with it altogether since then, but I could be off by four or so times. It’s nice to know someone’s paying attention out there. Thank you for watching man! Please stay in touch. Let me know what you end up doing. And yes, I have been pretty impressed with how it’s holding up.
I have several Stihl chainsaws. Stihl homeowner chainsaw (024). Pro Stihl chainsaws (MS 261c, MS 400c, MS 462c, MS 500i) used within different applications as needed. Sometimes all are used in more of a crew environment. My experience of a saw cutting a curve is generally due to cutting teeth on one side of the chain being sharper than the other. The sharper side of the chain displaces more wood disproportionally compared to the dull side causing a curve in the wood. Similarly the rakers may also be of disproportional height having the same effect as one side being sharper than the other. Replacing chain with a brand new chain blade will make it clear. If the saw continues to cut a curve with the new blade the two guide rails on bar are most likely uneven and may be fixed with a file or tool made for that purpose. Last the bar may be the issue if it has a bow/curve in the bar. As to the issue of the guide bar becoming hot or bluing on the edge, generally this is caused by a lack of proper bar&chain oil on the bar itself. Check bar oil tank for fluid, next check that the oil feed hole on the bar is not blocked or impeded, another point of concern would be if you have properly adjusted your oil flow setting , which is on the bottom of the chainsaw with a screwdriver. There is one last possibility to consider the oil pump itself has failed and will need to be replaced. Hopefully this information is helpful. Be safe in your labors.
@@JohnWoodbury-xk2cb Thanks so much John. Very good information to keep an eye on. It’s folks like you that make all of this worth while. Stay safe and God bless.
Make your own. 6 ribs cut off, cut long ways on 1 side. Open up make your splice close with zip ties. Lasts until the ditch is burnt and the pipe burns up.
No one would sell something that is not needed.... you cut a 3 foot section off and slit it up the middle.... then you put a foot and a half in and the other foot in a half in the added pipe.... it locks them in place and does not create any flow restrictions
Sean I don’t know anything about that being loose. But I would listen to what Ricky says, sounds like he knows about it. Just stay safe brother! God bless!
Thanks Marty! I had not even seen Ricky’s comment yet when I saw yours so I went back and looked at his too. I definitely think it’s worth looking into it and I’m going to. Hope you’re having a great weekend. God bless you, brother talk to you next time.
I believe the center nut with the cotter pin needs tightened. That should be a tapered spline shaft and as tightened up will take that slack out. Kinda like a taper on a ball joint steering tie rod. Good thing you found that before those pieces get to much wear in them. Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Ricky, thanks for the info man! Appreciate you watching. I’m definitely going to look into that for sure. Next weeks video is me mowing 10 acres with it and it was making a noise when I would turn. but I need to mow again before long I don’t know yet lol so I think I’m gonna definitely reach out to rhino and confirm if that’s the case, but if I can’t get them, I’ll probably just take that nut off and get up under there and try to figure it out. Have a good one.
@@PhillipDrumz thank you a lot for your kind words. There’s no doubt I’m learning every day and I’m certainly not afraid to admit where I’m wrong. I’ve been wrong a long time and I’m sure there will be more coming. Thank you for watching and hope all is well.
Thanks for the 75C maintenance videos, they make my life easier! Note that it is actually the temperature gauge you are referring to as the oil pressure gauge.
I have a 2019 NH Workmaster 75 and it just did the same thing to me last night. I have been mowing for weeks in 2-3 hour stints without issue, but last night in this crazy high heat it would not disengage when I finished mowing for the night. Shut it down and went back in an hour and it was fine.....
I have a sthil ms381 pro saw 15 years old no problem but i dont know if the new saws are made differently i dont know but the build quility is good but i wonder is the new stuff badly made vs old .
You can click this link and if you buy it here you will also help support our channel. I hope this helps and thanks for watching. www.amazon.com/shop/thelovelyplace/list/23TU0GW7AE1WF?ref_=aipsflist_aipsfthelovelyplace
I completely filled, sealed & pressurized the fuel tank with an air compressor. With the bleed screw open, fuel ran through the system and most the air was pushed out the bleed screw. Then I cranked the starter to finish bleeding the system. The tractor started and ran. The entire fuel system holds around a gallon. Reattaching the loader on un level ground was my ordeal.
