Toyota's better idea? Before having a Camry? I had 4 Chevrolets. The washer bottle was held in by 1 screw and it was easier to take out from the top. At least you did not have to loosen half the car.
Hey do you still have this scooter I need parts I just picked up one of these for $100 the parts I’m looking for are the clutch cover bolts,variator parts I have the aluminum fan and variator just need that start spacer/washer and that nut that tightens it up,need the clutch nut, I have a spare clutch that will go on if it is the same spline.and I need a new top end I took out the spark plug and stuck my inspection camera down the cylinder and noticed a small hole in the center of the piston so I’m thinking of going with a BBK if u have anything that could help me get those parts like websites and such that’s be great thanks
@@speedyme200 if it was going to hurt the electrical system then they wouldn't build them to be able to run without a battery. The pocket batteries they added to scooters and mopeds are for convenience only.
@@flipflopmech some things won't function properly without a battery brake light turn signal gas gauge and oil warning light.. even the stator and the voltage regulator won't like it.. electrical load need a batt.. why risk it but do what yall want ain't my bike..
@@speedyme200 everything has always worked like normal on the scooters I've owned. I rolled the odometer over on a Honda metro 2 at least a handful of times before I bought these genuines, without a battery since I bought it used from a scooter rental company. Ran that thing for 8 years everyday and it was a fuel pumped 4 stroke. Ran that Honda so many miles the plastics on it got brittle from that Florida sun and blew away with the wind lol. Finally got to where it wasn't worth throwing parts at anymore and I guess you could say upgraded to genuine but that little metro just rode great and was quiet compared to these 2 cycles. Never had exhaust issues on that Honda like these either. Little rust pin holes pop up randomly on these, got more j.b. weld steel stick than metal at this point.
Just the particulate sensors. There are 4. They get dirty and put the truck into a countdown for limp mode. So I remove them from the exhaust but keep them plugged in cause the plastics are dodgy. Swirl them in warm water and wipe em off with rag then put back. Drive it normally and the countdown goes away and check engine light on its own. If you go to a dealership they'll insist that they all need to be replaced. But so far I've found they just need to be cleaned and then they're good again. I've since moved from that island life to the foothills where the speed limits are 45-55 mph instead of 25mph. The higher speeds and open roads instead of stop and go every 50 yards and constantly sitting at idle, I've had no issues since. These emission systems are just no good for slow speeds and idle areas everyday. If I didn't move, I was gonna have it all deleted.
I got a 2010 Ford fusion sel thatt hust bought 144 miles almost and isk whebb tthe last time owner change the trans fluid only mottor fluid should i change it is still shifting smooth from drive to park etc
Thanks for sharing your experience. Just picked up a 1998 Avalon XLS for my niece from a long time friend/co-worker. Family owned, 128k miles. Mechanically great but need some reconditioning and of course the headliner is coming down. I'll pin it up for now but this may be a project for later in the year. Doesn't look like too bad of a job. I'll spend $50 and a day to replace the headliner down the road, but not spending much more for a $1000 car.
You should’ve use the plastic or rubber mallet to get that cover off. I have the same bike 2022 model. But I’m not judging you. I think you did an amazing job.
Thanks for posting this. I had a leak in my reservoir and used this to figure out how to replace it. I probably would have spent an extra hour on the work if you hadn't pointed out that annoying nut on the front! My shop probably would have charged a few hundred but I was able to swap out a $40 unit from amazon which seems to be working great now.
I’m hoping that you never work on any other car in your life.. you clearly don’t know what you’re doing. And I’m sure your buddy will agree because I bet he had to buy a new car.
My wife's 2010 had similar issues. We bought used with 80k and immediately changed tranny fluid, oil, plugs, etc. It still seemed to struggle, including a shift delay from 2nd, especially under load going up hill. What I did was reset the shift table and swapped out the TB, afterwards it runs and shifts like a champ.
Good afternoon, I too am having an issue with an emission's check engine light constantly coming on with my 2016 GMC canyon. Already spent over $5,000 trying to fix nobody can seem to fix it
Thanks for the video. It helped a lot. I thought putting it back will be hard but much easier unexpectedly except sunvisors. Some patience and some trick made it easier though in the end.
How was your search for sun visors? Everything of the vintage was just as bad as mine. Wound up getting a set out of on 01 and removing the extra flap.
Blames the transmission for acting up, then admits the fluid has probably never been changed in over 100K miles and then calls the vehicle "It's a pile of junk.." How about we put the blame where blame belongs and that's squarely on the owner(s) for neglecting to perform routine maintenance on the vehicle. It's common knowledge that these 6F35 transmissions have an internal filter and the best way to maintain them for a long happy life is to simply change the transmission fluid every 30K miles - you showed how simple that task was. I bought a used 2010 Ford Fusion SEL 3.0L V6 with Select Shift manual mode shifter and only 30K miles on it in mint condition (probably owned by an elderly couple) at the time in November 2021 because the 2010 - 2012 Fusions are rated by Consumer Report and other knowledge sources as one of the most reliable models in the latest lineup. Added Steeda CAI with Steeda SCT Tune, Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, upgraded the suspension with larger Steeda rear anti sway bar, lowering springs and strut tower brace. I also upgraded the wheels/tires to Michelin Pilot Sport 4S performance tires on Fusion Sport 18 inch wheels; added Fusion Sport lower rocker panels and APR carbon fiber lower front splitter. Now, I can say with confidence she'll either keep up with or destroy most comparable late model European vehicles with ease. My advice is to keep up with the maintenance on these vehicles or any vehicle for that matter and it will treat you right. Thanks for the video.
V6 model may be built better, but the one I was working on was a 2.5L and it was falling apart. Door handles broken, window motors burnt out, electrical issues, they had the electric power steering replaced already, radiator replaced. I agree with you that they should know more about their car but they took it to Ford dealership for fluid changes when needed and was never told about transmission maintenance. They are just the type of people that don't know anything about vehicles. 🤷🏻. I use to own a 95 3.0L V6 Ford Taurus, I loved that car. But again it was the top model available with that motor and I lost the first transmission at 100k in miles... I'm not a hater on all Ford's. My Dad's got a 96 Ford ranger straight drive with over half a million miles on it. Great little truck.
@@flipflopmech I would highly recommend your friend watch a few RU-vid videos from FordTechMakuloco and start doing his own maintenance. I do all of mine except brakes for now and have learned a lot from this guy. He's a Ford Expert with many years under his belt and I trust him because he's very professional and you can tell he's very knowledgeable. I also own a low mileage 2006 Kenne Bell Supercharged Mustang GT with tons of mods and a 2001 Kenne Bell Supercharged Ford Escape 3.0L V6 4X4 with several mods as well. Never had any issues with the Mustang, but had transmission issues with the Escape only because I didn't know how to maintain the CD4E transmission on that vehicle until it was too late - a hard lesson. That's why I maintain all my vehicles now. Good Luck and thanks for your comments.
hey man i have a 2011 ford fusion se 3.0 and i was wondering if you happen to know if the transmission drain and fill procedure is different than the 2.5s i ordered all the stuff needed to do a transmission fluid change and can’t find a video with the 3.0
Thanks for the video. Any update on how the transmission is doing a year later? My 2012 fusion is starting to have the problem where it doesn't want to shift up when it's cold. Mechanic said the fluid was very dirty. He was worried that changing the fluid might do more damage though... Car has 126K miles and fluid has never been changed.
It's still good as new. They don't put a lot of miles on it living on an island and rarely get over 35 mph. But it's shifting fine. I would change the fluid. Run it for about 10k in miles and then change it again. Don't flush it. Just change it regular. It may help, it may not. But i wouldn't be scared to change it. I've only heard of that scenario with engine oil. I've seen people change the oil in an old vehicle that hadn't had a change in a very long time and the engine blew a week later. But as far as transmission goes, they are either shot or not. Flushing them is always bad. Just change the fluid normally and then drive it, it'll either get smoother over a few days or stay the same. Good luck.
@@AshokSharma-fu1ry I'd say it improved the shifting. But it does still shift hard on cold mornings. I park outside and live in Kansas where it gets pretty cold on winter mornings. I've noticed if I let the car warm up a good five minutes first, the hard shifting won't be as bad. I'd definitely recommend changing the trans fluid. Another channel, fordtechmakuloco, was adamant about using Motorcraft fluid which I did.
@@NosloJT nice!! I will do it as well then! How many quarts was the change? Also, it’s funny because i also live in Kansas - Wichita to be exact and I feel you. Weather is in all sorts of funky moods always haha
I hope this the only problem with my 2016 GMC Canyon SLT. Though mine is a 3.6L engine, and I just recently hit a deer with it shortly after my birthday.
@@flipflopmech this was my second summer on mine. It's a 2021. They de-restricted at the dealer it does 45 mph per GPS. The new ones are all on 12-in Wheels now I think that helps with the top speed.
@@jeffmacey6482 mines got a decent top speed but the knobby tires I have definitely slow it a bit over the road tires. But I like the Knobby's better because they perform better with debris like loose sand or gravel in the road, also more confident in heavy rain, and they have a longer range before wearing imo. We have this 2015 red one and my wife has a 2017 gray one with road tires, hers has about 14,000 ish miles.
