I like to tinker, and a lot of it is with woodworking, but not all. To see the latest of my tinkering adventures, follow me on Instagram @althoffwoodshop
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If I want to make something similar to this so I can treat a wooden spoon rest or silverware organizer, how do you sterilize the containers for sale or storage to prevent bacteria growth?
Am late to the party anyways nice work -one question - what steps or process did you use when setting the distance of the stop blocks for the handles to ensure they were centered - many thanks
I've been doing simpler versions of this, but I really like your triple layer stripe. I'll have to add that to some of mine. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nFGQP6MlF_k.html
Das Video ist gut. Als Tipp würde ich empfehlen die Drehzahl bei der Oberfräse etwas reduzieren, evtl. das Werkzeug nachschleifen lassen und den Abtrag verringern, dann entstehen auch keine "Brandspuren" im Holz!! Bei Hartholz ist die Drehzahl und der Abtrag entscheidend. (Ich habe auch diese Fehler gemacht, (hohe Drehzahl und zu viel Abtrag auf einmal)!!! .... nur ein Tipp!!!!
Why do you place two cherry boards together during the first glue-up? I can see it comes out great but can't visually see how the initial layout connects to the end pattern
Heat treating the steel so it holds an edge. The steel is O1 tool steel. I heated to 1500 degrees F at which point it becomes non magnetic, it’s “critical” temperature. Then cooling it in oil quickly drops the temp and “freezes” the structure inside the steel (I’m not a metallurgist and probably missing a lot of detail here). At this point the steel is very hard but very brittle. So putting it in the oven for an hour at a low (comparatively) temperature trades some of that hardness for toughness.
Nice work in general. But you could have skipped the juice groove. Would have made the board better looking and more practical, as without a groove it's easier to scrape stuff off the board.
For those out there thinking about doing this, just be warned that running an end grain board through a planer is rolling the dice. It can go horribly wrong, destroy the board, and harm your knives. So, milage may vary. Just be warned that it is something that is a real possibility. Use a router sled if you want to avoid the planer, or just use a hand plane.
Life is a roll of the dice.... take light cuts: 1/64 to 1/32. Use cawls on the ends and cut off later to prevent chip out on the ends. Make sure your blades are sharp. Check out mtmwood, broinwood, and other pros that make end grain boards for a living - they use planers.
With a branding iron. I opted to get an electric one, cost more up front but much more consistent I hear than the torch heated ones. I think I got mine from Branding Irons Unlimited (?)
@@Althoffwoodshop I have a quality electric branding iron also. Don’t seem to get you results. Do you handle the iron or press it on mechanical. Would be helpful if you did a video on it. WoodRicks
I just use the handle, press hard with a slight wiggle and count to 10. I always test on a piece of scrap of the same wood before hand. I like the video idea. Adding to my list, might be the next one since it should be easier to shoot than the other idea
I have been very lucky with mine. One way to manage is lift up the opposite end slightly as it goes in and then again as it comes out. Hope this helps. If not I'll look later and see if those outfeed tables are adjustable at all.
The tables are adjustable and will have to try adjusting mine so they will lift more on the feed and out feed of the wood as you suggested. Thanks for your input
Great call out, it would have been good to include that. It takes finish fine unlike wood glue when you can see where you might have had squeeze out. I'll make sure to address this on my upcoming video of doing butterfly keys by hand.
