Being a restorer, this is 95% time and labor. Being for myself, or as a gift, actual costs are irrelevant. As far as customers, most send in Scotties, which in that case is not cheaper to buy a new one.
My Black Stroke Lab Rossie is one of the smoothest swinging putters I have. They do feel very stable, and honestly for a stability type shaft, you can't really go wrong with the price.
I have a Scotty phantom with black 6061 aluminum and 303 stainless steel. Would I mess up the black aluminum if I dropped the entire head into acetone ???
@@igolf906 I have a crown and cameron Newport that I need to put on the buffer wheel. Was nervous I’d ruin it by not protecting it but it’s stainless so I’ll give it a go!
I have an old odyssey white steel #3 blade that i purchased second hand that has some dents and dings and was wandering if you do work for others? Would like to see it restored but i dont have the equipment
I used to work at a heavy machinery component producer. We did tungsten carbide coatings on high wear components, applied through hvof (supersonic spraying of molten metal). I used to do tedting for samples etc. a thin layer of coating is very heavy. I've always wanted to design a minimalist blade style putter with hvof coating to add weight and make it so hard you couldn't ding it 😂
I'm curious what you typically charge for a refurbish like this, without the cerakote step? I just got an old odyssey black series #1 that I love the feel of, and the original look, but it is dinged and scratched up quite a bit on the top line and bottom edge.
Prices vary for the work being done and the model. That's why Scotties are the most common done as a the refurb doesn't exceed the value of the putter. 🤷♂️ Shoot me an email if you want more details or anything
No because that is after the deburring wheel. The finish looks nice maybe at a distance but will be a very un-uniform finish. Will not look good over the ball.
Yes it will work. It will just take awhile. If your putter is badly dinged up I'd recommend something in the 60-100 grit range. And then work your way up. End with 400 or so. It still won't be a uniform finish without a Bead blast though.
@brockstrong3466 for a good factory finish that's uniform, no. There is no substitute in my opinion. Unless you wanted to hand sand to a higher grit and polish.
I love your work and appreciate the links. This is something I am getting into and I was curious, you have two wheels linked below. Do I need both wheels or just the first one linked? And if both are needed what would you use first then second?
Thanks! As there are many better options, lol, I just grabbed what I had at the time. WD can actually be used as a cutting oil, but aluminum is what it works best on. Better than nothing I guess!
Question, with that type on “inserted” neck you can’t adjust lie and loft afterwards right ? Need to perforate at a specific angle at the beginning i guess ?!
Awesome! What sandpaper did you use to refinish the face to give it the clean brushed looked? Turned out awesome and I think a cleaner look than the typical milled face everyone wants these days
Love this, great work and love your videos!! Can you leave a link for the blue material you put on the screws for when you put them back in the baseplate?
To be honest, I did a lot of basic measurements. Measure the hosel length and depth of the fitting. After a mock up fitting, I use a shaft to follow where approximately the hosel would be, and made sure it ended up pointing directly to the center of the face. Seemed to work as it's perfectly face balanced!
Great job on it. Looks magnificent. Yeah by having the shaft point to the center of the face essentially makes a face balanced putter. Was the initial bore perpendicular? Looked like when you milled it that it was but after installing the neck shaft it looks like it’s a bit angled
Honestly I use whatever I have. Certain types work better for steel, Wood etc but. I have tons of Sandpaper and sanding rolls left over from other projects so. Usually it's just the standard red grit aluminum oxide, which is best used for wood, but works fine for what I need.
Buy a cabinet & some media. Hook your compressor to it and spray. It's pretty simple. But you will need a pretty industrial Air compressor to run one properly.
This is close to what I want to do with my older TM Spider. But I'm unsure about the metal composition... i believe it's just aluminum with a black enamel paint finish. 🤔
@igolf906 Thanks. I appreciate the reply. Every "paint fill" video I've studied is performed on a bare metal (surrounding) surface. What if the surround surface has been painted? Does it work the same way, or will the "wipe" with acetone or mineral spirits also wipe off the surrounding surface finish?
@bodynfocus well by paint, I assume you mean a finish. And using standard paint for a full finish is not recommended. And yes, acetone will eat away at any standard paints. That's why Cerakote is used for coating putters. It is resistant to solvents.
