@@michaelyoung1901 thanks for the compliment. My engine is a 2234cc which is 92 p/c 84 crank. Cam is a SLR custom grind, roughly.550 lift 293 duration 112 line centers. I've never dyno it so I'm not sure on HP.
Good information on cam bearings and how to fit double cam bearings ! ! I was installing double cam bearings before they were even available . I have about 4 boxes of brand new bearings with the thrust bearings missing 😂 . I have a friend who builds HIGH performance motorcycles he uses a whetstone for fitting parts like these . They are fairly cheap at Harbor Freight , there is a rough side and a polishing side , don't build your next engine without one ! ! KEEP BUILDING BROTHER 😎
HIYA All of my builds , from a 1600 grocery getter to a "fairly " built 1835 always includes a windage tray . Keeps the oil in the bottom of the case and oil being whipped up by the crank , rods and pistons 👍😁
They have a reverse manifold design for the IDF that give better access to the idle jets. And if you add a jet doctor to the IDF the jets will not clog up. My baja lives in the dirt. Ive had the jet doctor installed for 16 months now. They have clogged once in that time. Before that it was every three weeks they would plug up. But that fuel injection setup is gonna rock.
Hey man, great video. I ran 48 IDFs for years before going to IDAs. So a direct 48 to 48 comparison. My car is very budgeted so I can’t make big changes often. I got to low 12s for a long time. I made all kinds of mods to the IDFs to try to sneak into the 11s and I just couldn’t do it. Enlarged the bowls, opened up the fuel passages, bigger vents, everything I could think of and every idea other guys had, nothing worked. Car was stuck in the low 12s. I wanted to do it with the IDFs to prove that I could. I finally gave up and tried IDAs. Instant 11.80 off the trailer. I always thought a 48 carb is a 48 carb. I was wrong, IDAs are just better. And with some work they can be great on the street too.
@@HellmuthsHotRods thanks for the sharing your findings. I had a couple of buggy friends I tried to get to buy IDAs but they chose the IDFs instead. One is still running his and the other got out of buggies.
Good stuff! Wish I would have done my own. I had uy who installed new pistons do it, and it leaks like crazy here! So irritating paying to have someone do it wrong at an actual shop. Guy also bent cooking find on heads by whacking them with a mullet to get off. Nice car love to see more of it.
@@ahernandez9860 I will admit it, sometimes those heads will be stuck on the cylinders. Especially if they have been on there awhile. 043 castings are the worst for some reason. 🤠😎
I have been looking for a video of this. Found one a long time ago by a machinist, but can't locate it. But from what I remember you hit this straight on. The sacrifice of the flywheel is worth it so far.
I got an old 1302, and i am suspecting previous owner have installed cam wrong (not on the dots). Because i have changed all electronics, and carbs, timed and adjusted. It got decent compression on all cylinders, but still cough and spit and run rough. Can i check if the camshaft are correctly mounted without splitting the engine
Thanks for this it was driving me insane. The manual states at tdc it should be perpendicular to the case half's and it just absolutely would not line up!
I have been on both Wonder of the Seas and Enchantment of the Seas, and there is a big difference between those ships. Also, Wonder of the Seas can hold over 5,500 passengers, and it doesn't feel crowded.
Never use a air cooled pancake engine if you want reliable power. Water cooled not much better. Been there, done that folks. cylinders wobble, valves, pushrods......
@@davegeorge7094 ? I've been at this for over 25 years. I've always run air-cooled engines so I don't know what you are talking about. My problems were all electrical not mechanical 😎🤠.
Great video! Enjoyed the walkthrough of your system as I've not been in the scene for a long time. However, I do electronics, so here's a little help with the "pull-up" understanding. With logic circuits such as this (crank sensor sending signals to the microcontroller), the sensor sends information with voltage "high"(+voltage), or "low" (grounded). The difference between high and low needs to be distinguishable to the microcontroller (ie. +5v and 0v, and anywhere between may not be read properly). A "pull-up resistor" helps to stabilize the +voltage so the circuit understands this as a "high" versus grounding of the circuit to show a "low". If you don't use this in some circuits, the +voltage can be seen as "floating"(non determinative voltage level), and not very stabile, often confusing the microcontroller so it can't read correctly. Also, using two resistors may have reduced the +voltage to a level where the microcontroller couldn't determine a "high" or "low" as well, resulting in sort of the same situation as "floating". Basically, using the "pull-up" helps the microcontroller to read the signals correctly. Hope that helps!
